Harley Davidson Softail 2000-2005. Service manual

7. Crank the engine over until there is no further rise in
pressure.
8. Record the reading and remove the tester.
9. Repeat Steps 4-8 for the other cylinder.
10. Reinstall the spark plugs and reconnect their caps.

Results

When interpreting the results, actual readings are not as

important as the difference between the readings. Table 8
lists the standard engine compression reading. Pressure must
not vary between the cylinders by more than ten percent.
Greater differences indicate worn or broken rings, leaky or
sticky valves, a blown head gasket or a combination of all.

If compression readings do not differ between cylinders

by more than ten percent, the rings and valves are in good
condition. A low reading (ten percent or more) on one cyl-
inder indicates valve or ring trouble. To decide which,
pour about a teaspoon of engine oil into the spark plug
hole. Turn the engine over once to distribute the oil, then
take another compression test and record the reading. If
the compression increases significantly, the valves are
good but the rings are defective on that cylinder. If com-
pression does not increase, the valves require servicing.

NOTE

An engine cannot be tuned to maximum per-
formance with low compression.

Spark Plug Removal

CAUTION

Whenever the spark plug is removed, dirt
around it can fall into the plug hole. This
can cause serious engine damage.

1. Blow away loose dirt or debris that may have accumu-
lated around the base of the spark plug and could fall into
the cylinder head.
2. Grasp the spark plug lead (Figure 66) and twist it from
side to side to break the seal. Then pull the cap off the
spark plug. If the cap is stuck to the plug, twist it slightly
to break it loose.

NOTE

Use a special spark plug socket equipped
with a rubber insert that holds the spark
plug. This type of socket is necessary for both
removal and installation since the spark
plugs are recessed in the cylinder head.

3. Install the spark plug socket onto the spark plug. Make
sure it is correctly seated. Install an open-end wrench or

socket handle and remove the spark plug. Mark the spark
plug with the cylinder number from which it was re-
moved.

4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for the remaining spark plug.

5. Thoroughly inspect each plug. Look for broken center
porcelain, excessively eroded electrodes and excessive
carbon or oil fouling.

6. Inspect the spark plug caps and secondary wires for
damage or hardness. If any portion is damaged, replace
the cap and secondary wire as an assembly. The front and
rear cylinder assemblies have different part numbers.

Spark Plug Gaping and Installing

Carefully gap the spark plugs to ensure a reliable, con-

sistent spark. Use a special spark plug gaping tool and a
wire feeler gauge.

1. Insert a wire feeler gauge between the center and side
electrode of the plug (Figure 67). The correct gap is in Table
8. If the gap is correct, a slight drag will be felt as the wire
gauge is pulled through. If there is no drag, or the gauge will
not pass through, bend the side electrode with a gaping tool
(Figure 68) to adjust to the proper gap in Table 8.

2. Install the terminal nut (A, Figure 69).

CHAPTER THREE

3. Apply a

light coat

of antiseize lubricant on the threads

of the spark plug before installing it. Do

not

use engine oil

on the plug threads.

CAUTION

The cylinder head is aluminum and the
spark plug hole is easily damaged if the
spark plug is cross-threaded.

4. Slowly screw the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand until it seats. Very little effort is required. If force is nec-
essary, the plug is cross-threaded; unscrew it and try again.

NOTE

Do not overtighten. This will only distort the
gasket and destroy its sealing ability.

5. Hand-tighten the plug until it seats against the cylinder
head, then tighten it to 11-18 ft.-lb. (15-24 N•m).

6. Install the spark plug cap and lead to the correct spark
plug. Rotate the cap slightly in both directions and make
sure it is attached to the spark plug.

7. Repeat for the other spark plug.

Spark Plug Heat Range

Spark plugs are available in various heat ranges that are

hotter or colder than the plugs originally installed by the
manufacturer.

Select a plug with a heat range designed for the loads

and conditions under which the motorcycle will be oper-
ated. A plug with an incorrect heat range can foul, over-
heat and cause piston damage.

In general, use a hot plug for low speeds and low tem-

peratures. Use a cold plug for high speeds, high engine
loads and high temperatures. The plug should operate hot
enough to burn off unwanted deposits, but not so hot that
it is damaged or causes preignition. To determine if plug
heat range is correct, remove each spark plug and examine
the insulator.

Do not change the spark plug heat range to compensate

for adverse engine or air/fuel conditions.

When replacing plugs, make sure the reach or thread

length (B, Figure 69) is correct. A longer than standard plug
could interfere with the piston and cause engine damage.

Refer to Table 8 for recommended spark plugs.

Spark Plug Reading

Reading the spark plugs can provide information re-

garding engine performance. Reading plugs that have
been in use indicates spark plug operation, air/fuel mix-
ture composition and engine conditions (such as oil con-
sumption or pistons). Before checking the spark plugs,
operate the motorcycle under a medium load for approxi-
mately 6 miles (10 km). Avoid prolonged idling before
shutting off the engine. Remove the spark plugs as de-
scribed in this chapter. Examine each plug and compare it
to those in Figure 70. Refer to the following sections to
determine the operating conditions.

If the plugs are being inspected to determine if carbure-

tor jetting is correct, start with new plugs and operate the
motorcycle at the load that corresponds to the jetting in-
formation desired. For example on carbureted models, if
the main jet is in question, operate the motorcycle at full
throttle, shut the engine off and coast to a stop.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Normal condition

If the plug has a light tan or gray deposit and no abnor-

mal gap wear or erosion, good engine, air/fuel mixture
and ignition conditions are good. The plug in use is of the
proper heat range, and may be serviced and returned to
use.

Carbon-fouled

Soft, dry, sooty deposits covering the entire firing end

of the plug are evidence of incomplete combustion. Even
though the firing end of the plug is dry, the plug’s insula-
tion decreases when in this condition. An electrical path is
formed that bypasses the electrodes and causes in a mis-
fire condition. Carbon fouling can be caused by one or
more of the following:
1. Rich fuel mixture.
2. Cold spark plug heat range.
3. Clogged air filter.
4. Improperly operating ignition component.
5. Ignition component failure.
6. Low engine compression.
7. Prolonged idling.

Oil-fouled

The tip of an oil-fouled plug has a black insulator tip, a

damp oily film over the firing end and a carbon layer over
the entire nose. The electrodes are not worn. Oil-fouled
spark plugs may be cleaned in an emergency, but it is
better to replace them. Correct the cause of fouling before
returning the engine to service. Common causes for this
condition are as follows:
1. Incorrect air/fuel mixture.
2. Low idle speed or prolonged idling.
3. Ignition component failure.
4. Cold spark plug heat range.
5. Engine still being broken in.
6. Valve guides worn.
7. Piston rings worn or broken.

Gap bridging

Plugs with gap bridging have gaps shorted out by com-

bustion deposits between the electrodes. If this condition
is encountered, check for excessive carbon or oil in the
combustion chamber. Be sure to locate and correct the
cause of this condition.

CHAPTER THREE

SPARK PLUG CONDITIONS

Normal

Carbon-fouled

Oil-fouled

Sustained preignition

Overheated

Gap-bridged

Overheating

Badly worn electrodes, premature gap wear and a gray or

white blistered porcelain insulator surface are signs of
overheating. The most common cause is a spark plug of the
wrong heat range (too hot). If spark plug is the correct heat
range and is overheated, consider the following causes:

1. Lean air/fuel mixture.

2. Improperly operating ignition component.

3. Engine lubrication system malfunction.

4. Cooling system malfunction.

5. Engine air leak.

6. Improper spark plug installation (over-tightened).

7. No spark plug gasket.

Worn out

Corrosive gases formed by combustion and high volt-

age sparks have eroded the electrodes. A spark plug in this
condition requires more voltage to fire under hard acceler-
ation. Replace it with a new spark plug.

Preignition

If the electrodes are melted, preignition is almost cer-

tainly the cause. Check for intake air leaks at the manifold
and carburetor, or throttle body, and advanced ignition tim-
ing. It is also possible that the plug is the wrong heat range
(too hot). Find the cause of the preignition before returning
the engine to service. For additional information, refer to

Engine Performance

in Chapter Two.

Ignition Timing

The engine is equipped with a fully transistorized ignition

system and is controlled by the ignition module (carbureted
models) or electronic control module (fuel injected models).
This solid-state system uses no breaker points to trigger the
ignition. Problems with the transistorized system are rare
and there are no means of adjusting ignition timing.
Harley-Davidson does not provide any ignition timing pro-
cedures. If an ignition related problem is suspected, inspect
the ignition components as described in Chapter Eight.

Incorrect ignition timing can cause a drastic loss of engine

performance and efficiency. It may also cause overheating.

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT

Carbureted Models

1. Start the engine and warm it to normal operating tem-
perature. Shut off the engine.
2. Make sure the starting enrichment (choke) valve is
pushed all the way to the OFF position.
3. Connect a portable tachometer to the engine following
the manufacturer’s instructions.

NOTE

Figure 71

is shown with the air filter assem-

bly removed to better illustrate the step.

4. Start the engine and with the engine idling, compare the
tachometer reading to the idle speed specification in Table
8. If the tachometer reading is incorrect, adjust the idle
speed with the carburetor throttle stop screw (Figure 71).

NOTE

The idle mixture is set and sealed by the
manufacturer and is not adjustable.

5. Accelerate the engine a couple of times and release the
throttle. The idle speed should return to the speed set in
Step 4. If necessary, readjust the idle speed by turning the
throttle stop screw (Figure 71). Shut off the engine.
6. Disconnect and remove the portable tachometer.

Fuel Injected Models

Idle speed adjustments on fuel injected models

must

performed by a Harley-Davidson dealership equipped
with a Scanalyzer tool.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Tables 1-10 are on the following pages.

Table 1 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE

Pre-ride check

Check tire condition and inflation pressure
Check wheel rim condition
Check light and horn operation
Check engine oil level; add oil if necessary
Check brake fluid level and condition; add fluid if necessary
Check the operation of the front and rear brakes
Check throttle operation
Check clutch lever operation
Check fuel level in fuel tank; top off if necessary
Check fuel system for leaks

Initial 500 miles (800 km)

Change engine oil and filter
Check battery condition; clean cable connections if necessary
Check brake fluid level and condition; add fluid if necessary
Check front and rear brake pads and discs for wear
Check tire condition and inflation pressure
Check primary chain deflection; adjust if necessary
Check drive belt tension; adjust if necessary
Change primary chaincase lubricant
Change transmission lubricant
Check clutch lever operation; adjust if necessary
Check drive belt and sprockets condition
Inspect spark plugs
Inspect air filter element
Lubricate front brake and clutch lever pivot pin
Lubricate clutch cable if necessary
Check throttle cable operation
Check enrichener (choke) cable operation (carbureted models)
Check engine idle speed; adjust if necessary
Check fuel system for leaks
Check electrical switches and equipment for proper operation
Check oil and brake lines for leakage
Check all fasteners for tightness

Road test the motorcycle

Every 2500 miles (4000 km)

Check transmission lubricant level; add lubricant if necessary
Check drive belt tension; adjust if necessary
Inspect air filter element; clean or replace if necessary
Check throttle operation
Check enrichener (choke) cable operation (carbureted models)
Check fuel system for leaks
Check oil and brake lines for leakage
Check electrical switches and equipment for proper operation
Road test the motorcycle

Every 5000 miles (8000 km)

Change engine oil and filter
Check battery condition; clean cable connections if necessary
Check brake fluid level and condition; add fluid if necessary
Check front and rear brake pads and discs for wear
Check tire condition and inflation pressure
Check wire wheel spoke nipple tightness; adjust if necessary (models so equipped)
Check primary chain deflection; adjust if necessary
Check drive belt tension; adjust if necessary
Change primary chaincase lubricant
Change transmission lubricant
Check clutch lever operation; adjust if necessary
Check drive belt and sprockets condition
Check steering head bearing adjustment; adjust if necessary
Inspect spark plugs

CHAPTER THREE

(continued)

Table 1 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE

(continued)

Every 5000 miles (8000km) (continued)

Inspect air filter element; clean or replace if necessary
Lubricate front brake and clutch lever pivot pin
Lubricate clutch cable if necessary
Check throttle cable operation
Check enrichener (choke) cable operation (carbureted models)
Check engine idle speed; adjust if necessary (carbureted models)
Check fuel system for leaks
Check electrical switches and equipment for proper operation
Check oil and brake lines for leakage
Check all fasteners for tightness

Road test the motorcycle

Every 10,000 miles (16,000 km)

Replace spark plugs
Perform a compression test
Lubricate steering head bearings
Lubricate rocker arm bearings (FLSTS and FXSTS)
Lubricate rear swing arm bearings
Inspect engine mounts for wear or damage; replace if necessary

Every 20,000 miles (32,000 km)

Change front fork oil
Inspect fuel tank filter, replace if necessary
Inspect fuel supply valve filter screen

1. Consider this maintenance schedule a guide to general maintenance and lubrication intervals. Harder than normal use and ex-
posure to mud, water, high humidity indicates more frequent servicing to most of the maintenance items.
2. Except cylinder head bolts. Cylinder head bolts must be tightened following the procedure listed in Chapter Four. Improper
tightening of the cylinder head bolts may cause cylinder gasket damage and/or cylinder head leakage.

Table 2 TIRE INFLATION PRESSURE (COLD)*

Model

kPa

PSI

Front wheels

Rider only

207

Rider and passenger

207

Rear wheels

Rider only

248

Rider and passenger

275

*Tire pressure for original equipment tires. Aftermarket tires may require different inflation pressure.

Table 3 ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATIONS

Ambient

Type

HD rating

Viscosity

operating temperature

HD Multi-grade

HD360

SAE 10W/40

Below 40

HD Multi-grade

HD360

SAE 20W/50

Above 40°F

HD Regular heavy

HD360

SAE 50

Above 60°F

HD Extra heavy

HD360

SAE 60

Above 80°F

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Table 4 ENGINE AND PRIMARY DRIVE/TRANSMISSION OIL CAPACITIES

Oil tank refill with filter capacity

3.5 U.S. qts. (3.3 L)

Primary chaincase

26 U.S. oz. (768 ml)

Transmission

Oil change

20-24 U.S. oz. (591-709 ml)

Rebuild (dry)

24 U.S. oz. (709 ml)

Table 5 RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND FLUIDS

Brake fluid

DOT 5 silicone

Front fork oil

HD Type E or an equivalent

Fuel

91 pump octane or higher leaded or unleaded

Transmission

HD Transmission Lubricant or an equivalent

Primary chaincase

HD Primary Chaincase Lubricant or an equivalent

Table 6 MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Item

ft.-lb.

in.-lb.

N•m

Air filter

Backplate screws

–

20-40

2-4

Cover screw

–

36-60

4-7

Clutch adjusting screw

locknut

–

72-120

8-14

Clutch inspection cover

screws

–

84-108

9.5-12

Crankcase oil plug

–

120-144

14-16

Front axle nut

FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF,
FXSTB, FXSTD

50-55

–

68-75

FLSTS, FXSTS

60-65

–

81-88

Front fork

Fork tube cap

40-60

–

54-81

Drain screw

FXSTD

–

12-18

1.4-2.0

All models except FXSTD

–

52-78

6-9

Jiffy stand leg

stop bolt

–

144-180

16-20

Primary chaincase

Inspection cover screws

–

84-108

9.5-12.2

Chain adjuster shoe nut

21-29

–

29-39

Oil tank drain plug

On frame rail

14-21

–

19-29

Rear axle nut

60-65

–

81-88

Spark plug

11-18

–

15-24

Transmission drain plug

14-21

–

19-28

Table 7 FRONT FORK OIL CAPACITY AND OIL LEVEL DIMENSION

Model

Capacity (each fork leg)

Oil level dimension

FLSTF, FLSTC, FXST

12.9 U.S. oz.

4.72 in. (119.9 mm)

FXSTB

12.0 U.S. oz.

7.28 in. (184.9 mm)

FXSTD

11.6 U.S. oz.

7.48 in. (189.9 mm)

CHAPTER THREE

Table 8 MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS

Item

Specification

Engine compression

90 psi (620 kPa)

Spark plugs

HD No. 6R12*

Gap

0.038-0.043 in. (0.97-1.09 mm)

Idle speed

Carbureted

950-1050 rpm

EFI

Non-adjustable

Ignition timing

Non-adjustable

Drive belt deflection

5/16-3/8 in. (8-10 mm)

Brake pad minimum thickness

FLSTS & FXSTS

1/16 in. (1.6 mm)

All other models

0.04 in. (1.02 mm)

Clutch cable free play

1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm)

*Harley-Davidson recommends that no other type of spark plug be substituted for the recommended H-D type.

Table 9 VEHICLE ALIGNMENT–HORIZONTAL WHEEL OFFSET

FLSTC, FLSTF

0.359 in. (9.12mm)

FXST, FXSTB, FXSTS

0.526 in. (13.36 mm)

FLSTS

0.320 in. (8.13 mm)

FXSTD

0.154 in. (3.9 mm)

Table 10 VEHICLE ALIGNMENT–LACED WHEEL RADIAL OFFSET

FXSTS

Front 21 in.

1.440-1.460 in. (36.576-37.084 mm)

Rear 16 in.

1.472-1.492 in. (37.389-37.897 mm)

FXST, FXSTD, FXSTB

Front 21 in.

1.640-1.660 in. (41.565-42.164 mm)

Rear 16 in.

1.472-1.492 in. (37.389-37.897 mm)

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

CHAPTER FOUR

ENGINE

This chapter provides complete service and overhaul

procedures, including information for disassembly, re-
moval, inspection, service and engine reassembly.

Tables 1-7 at the end of the chapter provide spacer,

shim and specification information.

All models covered in this manual are equipped with

the Twin Cam 88B engine, an air-cooled four-stroke,
overhead-valve V-twin engine. Viewed from the engine’s
right side, engine rotation is clockwise. A dual counterbal-
ancing system rotates in the opposite direction of the
crankshaft to minimize vibration.

Both cylinders fire once in 720° of crankshaft rotation.

The rear cylinder fires 315° after the front cylinder. The
front cylinder fires again in another 405°. Note one cylin-
der is always on its exhaust stroke when the other fires on
its compression stroke.

SERVICE PRECAUTIONS

Before servicing the engine, note the following:

1. Review the

Basic Service Methods

and

Precision Mea-

suring Tools

sections in Chapter One. Accurate measure-

ments are critical to a successful engine rebuild.

2. Throughout the text there are references to the left and
right side of the engine. This refers to the engine as it is
mounted in the frame, not how it may sit on the work-
bench.

3. Always replace worn or damaged fasteners with those
of the same size, type and torque requirements. Make sure
to identify each bolt before replacing it. Lubricate bolt
threads with engine oil, unless otherwise specified, before
tightening them. If a specific torque value is not listed in
Table 4, refer to the general torque specifications in Chap-
ter One.

CAUTION

The engine is assembled with hardened fas-
teners. Do not install fasteners with a lower
strength grade classification.

4. Use special tools where noted. Refer to Table 12 in
Chapter One.

5. Store parts in boxes, plastic bags and containers (Fig-
ure 1). Use masking tape and a permanent, waterproof
marking pen to label parts.

6. Use a box of assorted size and color vacuum hose iden-
tifiers, such as those shown in Figure 2 (Lisle part No.

TE:

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74600), to identify hoses and fittings during engine re-
moval and disassembly.

7. Use a vise with protective jaws to hold parts.

8. Use a press or special tools when force is required to
remove and install parts. Do not try to pry, hammer or oth-
erwise force them on or off.

9. Replace all O-rings and oil seals during reassembly.
Apply a small amount of grease to the inner lips of each
new seal to prevent damage when the engine is first
started.

10. Record the location, position and thickness of all
shims as they are removed.

SPECIAL TOOLS

Engine service requires a number of special tools.

These tools and their part numbers are listed with the indi-
vidual procedures. For a complete list of the special tools
mentioned in this manual, refer to Table 12 in Chapter
One. The engine tools used in this chapter are either
Harley-Davidson or JIMS special tools. JIMS special
tools are available through some Harley-Davidson dealer-
ships or many aftermarket motorcycle suppliers.

When purchasing special tools, make sure to specify

that the tools required are for the 2000-on FLST and
FXST Softail Twin-Cam 88B models. Many of the tools
are specific to this engine. Tools for other engine models
may be slightly different.

SERVICING ENGINE IN FRAME

Many components can be serviced while the engine is

mounted in the frame:
1. Rocker arm cover and rocker arms.
2. Cylinder heads.
3. Cylinders and pistons.
4. Camshafts.
5. Gearshift mechanism.
6. Clutch and primary drive assembly.
7. Transmission.
8. Carburetor or fuel injection induction module.
9. Starter and gears.
10. Alternator and electrical systems.

ENGINE

Removal

Refer to Figure 3.

1. Thoroughly clean the engine of all dirt and debris.
2. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Fourteen.

NOTE

Always disarm the optional TSSM security
system prior to disconnecting the battery or
the siren will sound.

3. Support the motorcycle on a stand or floor jack. See

Motorcycle Stands

in Chapter Nine and the following:

a. The motorcycle has almost a 50:50 weight distribu-

tion at the center of the engine location on the
frame. The jack must be positioned so that the mo-
torcycle is stable after being lifted up off the
ground.

b. The following procedure is shown with a K&L

MC450 Center Stand jack as shown in Figure 4.
The jack’s post supports fit onto the frame tubes and
help stabilize the jack to the motorcycle.

c. Use additional wood blocks to ensure that the mo-

torcycle is stabilized.

d. Also, tie the motorcycle down for additional stabil-

ity.

4. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Seven.
5. On models so equipped, remove both saddlebags as
described in Chapter Fourteen.

ENGINE

14. To gain access to the electrical panel, remove the rear
fender inner panel as described in Chapter Eight.

15. Unplug the speed sensor connector (Figure 5) and re-
lease the electrical harness from the transmission case.

16. Remove the oil tank as described in this chapter.

17. Remove the bolts securing the drive belt guard and
remove the guard.

18. On 2000 models, remove the camshaft position sen-
sor as described in Chapter Eight.

19. Remove the jiffy stand (A, Figure 6) as described in
Chapter Fourteen.

20. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:

a. Crankshaft position sensor (A, Figure 7).

b. Alternator stator and voltage regulator (Figure 8).

c. Oil pressure switch (A, Figure 9).

d. Engine temperature sensor (Figure 10).

21. Remove the ignition coil and spark plug assembly as
described in Chapter Eight.

22. Remove the primary chain case assembly, including
the inner housing, as described in Chapter Five.

23. Remove the alternator rotor and stator as described in
Chapter Eight.

ENGINE

24. Remove the ignition coil assembly (A, Figure 11) as
described in Chapter Eight.

25. Remove the voltage regulator from the frame as de-
scribed in Chapter Eight.

26. Disconnect the hose from the breather cover and
move the hose behind the transmission flange.

27. Remove the bolts and washers securing the seat post
and remove the seat post.

28. Remove the clutch cable from the lower portion of
the crankcase as described under

Clutch Cable Replace-

ment

in Chapter Five.

29. Wrap the frame front down tubes and lower tubes in
protective tape to prevent surface damage in the following
steps.

30. Remove the transmission case from the engine and
frame as described in Chapter Six.

31. On all models except the FLSTS, remove the horn as-
sembly (B, Figure 11) as described in Chapter Eight.

NOTE

Note the location of the ground strap (

Fig-

ure 12

) under the bolt on the rear cylinder

head.

32. Remove the bolts and washers (A, Figure 13) secur-
ing the engine upper mounting bracket to the cylinder
heads. Do not forget the ground strap.

33. Remove the bolt, washer and lockwasher (B, Figure
13) securing the engine upper mounting bracket to the
frame.

34. Support the engine with a floor jack. Apply enough
jack pressure on the crankcase to support it prior to re-
moving the engine mounting bolts.

35. On the left side, remove the front upper (B, Figure 7)
and front lower nuts (B, Figure 6) and washers from the
engine mounting through bolts.

36. On the right side, slowly withdraw the upper bolt (B,
Figure 9) and spacer (C). Then remove the lower bolts
from the crankcase and frame. Do not lose the outer spac-
ers on the bolts. The shorter top bolt has an outer spacer on
the right side only. The longer lower bolt has an outer
spacer on both sides.

37. After the bolts have been removed, remove the inner
spacers from both sides of the crankcase.

38. Cover both rocker covers with foam padding to pro-
tect the finish.

39. Check the engine to make sure all electrical wiring,
hoses and other related components have been discon-
nected from the engine. Make sure nothing will interfere
with the removal of the engine from the right side of the
frame.

WARNING

Due to the weight of the engine assembly, a
minimum of two people are required to
safely remove the engine from the frame.

40. Remove the engine from the right side of the frame.
41. If available, mount the engine in the twin cam 88B
engine base stand (JIMS part No.1138) and engine stand
(JIMS part No.1142) or an equivalent (Figure 14).
42. Clean the front engine mount bolts and washers in
solvent and dry thoroughly.
43. Replace leaking or damaged oil hoses and fuel lines.

Installation

WARNING

Due to the weight of the engine assembly, a
minimum of two people are required to
safely install the engine into the frame.

1. Make sure all electrical wiring, hoses and other related
components are out of the way and will not interfere with
engine installation.
2. Correctly position a floor jack and piece of wood under
the frame to support the engine when it is installed into the
frame.

CHAPTER FOUR

3. Install the engine from the right side of the frame and
place it on the piece of wood and floor jack. Apply enough
jack pressure on the crankcase to support it prior to install-
ing the engine mounting bolts.

4. Correctly position the engine and align the mounting
bolt holes with the frame bolt holes.

5. If removed, install the four inner spacers into the
crankcase bolt receptacles. Push them until they bottom.

6. Install the upper (short) bolt as follows:

a. Install a washer onto the upper bolt and insert it into

the frame.

b. Install the inner spacer onto the upper bolt, then

push the upper bolt through the crankcase and inner
spacer.

c. Push the bolt through the frame.
d. On the left side, install a washer and nut onto the up-

per bolt. Tighten the nut finger-tight at this time.

7. Install the lower (long) bolt as follows:

a. Install a washer onto the lower bolt and insert it into

the frame.

b. Install the inner spacer onto the lower bolt, then

push the lower bolt through the crankcase, the inner
spacer and the outer spacer.

c. Push the bolt through the frame.
d. On the left side, install a washer and nut onto the

lower bolt. Tighten the nut finger-tight at this time.

8. Install the engine upper mounting bracket onto the cyl-
inder heads and frame. Install the bolts, lockwashers and
washers and tighten finger-tight at this time. Do not forget
to correctly position the ground strap (Figure 12) under
the bolt on the rear cylinder head.
9. On all models except the FLSTS, install the horn as-
sembly (B, Figure 11) as described in Chapter Eight.
10. Install the transmission case into the frame and en-
gine as described in Chapter Six.
11. Tighten the engine front mounting bolts to 70-80
ft.-lb. (95-108 N•m).
12. Remove the floor jack.
13. Remove the protective tape from the frame front
down tubes.
14. Remove the foam padding from the rocker covers.
15. Install the clutch cable onto the lower portion of the
crankcase as described under

Clutch Cable Replacement

in Chapter Five.
16. Tighten the engine upper mounting bracket onto the
cylinder heads and frame to the specification in Table 4.
17. Install the seat post and mounting bolts and tighten
securely.
18. Connect the hose onto the transmission breather
cover.
19. Install the voltage regulator as described in Chapter
Eight.
20. Install the alternator stator and rotor assembly as de-
scribed in Chapter Eight.
21. Install the primary chain case assembly, including the
inner housing, as described in Chapter Five.
22. Install the ignition coil assembly (A, Figure 11) as
described in Chapter Eight.
23. Connect the following electrical connectors:

a. Crankshaft position sensor (Figure 7).
b. Alternator stator and voltage regulator (Figure 8).
c. Oil pressure switch (A, Figure 9).
d. Engine temperature sensor (Figure 10).

ENGINE

Harley Davidson Softail 2000-2005. Service manual - page 11