Harley Davidson Softail 2000-2005. Service manual - page 10

6. Install the clutch inspection cover (Figure 17) and
tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

Primary Chaincase Oil Change

Table 1 lists the recommended replacement intervals

for the primary chaincase lubricant.

1. Ride the motorcycle for approximately ten minutes and
shift through all five gears until the primary chaincase oil
has reached normal operating temperature. Turn off the en-
gine and allow the oil to settle. Park the motorcycle on a
level surface and have an assistant support it so that it is
standing straight up. Do not support it with its jiffy stand.

2. Place a drain pan under the chaincase and remove the
drain plug (B, Figure 16).

3. Allow the oil to drain for at least ten minutes.

4. The drain plug is magnetic. Check the plug for metal
debris that may indicate drive component or clutch dam-
age, then wipe the plug off. Replace the plug if it is dam-
aged.

5. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten it securely.

6. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspection
cover and quad ring (Figure 17). Remove the cover.

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil. Only add the recom-
mended primary chaincase lubricant listed
in

Table 5

7. Refill the primary chaincase through the clutch opening
with the recommended quantity (Table 4) and type (Table
5) of primary chaincase oil. Do not overfill. The oil level
must be even with the bottom of the clutch opening or at the
bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (Figure 18).
8. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the
primary chain case cover.
9. Install the clutch inspection cover (Figure 17) and
tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).
10. Ride the motorcycle until the primary chaincase oil
reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut the en-
gine off.
11. Check the primary chaincase drain plug for leaks.

Front Fork Oil Change

This procedure is for a routine fork oil change. If the

fork has been disassembled for service, refer to Chapter
Ten for fork oil refilling and oil level procedures and spec-
ifications.

Table 1 lists the recommended fork oil change intervals.

CAUTION

Use only a 6-point socket to loosen and
tighten the fork tube cap to avoid cosmetic
damage to the fork tube cap. Using a
12-point socket may round off the corners of
the fork tube cap.

NOTE

The fork tube cap is not under fork spring
pressure.

1. Remove the fork tube cap, spacer and oil seal (Figure
19) from the top of the fork tube plug.
2. Place a drain pan beside one fork tube, then remove the
drain screw and washer (Figure 20, typical) from the
slider.
3. Straddle the motorcycle and apply the front brake le-
ver. Push down on the fork and release. Repeat to force as
much oil out of the fork tube and slider as possible.

CAUTION

Do not allow the fork oil to come in contact
with the brake components.

4. Replace the drain screw washer if it is damaged.
5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the opposite fork tube.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

6. After the fork oil has thoroughly drained, install the
drain screw and washer (Figure 20) onto the fork slider.
Tighten the drain screw to 52-78 in.-lb. (6-9 N•m). For
FXSTD 12-18 in.-lb. (1.4-2.0 N•m).

NOTE

Use a plastic tube that is slightly smaller in
diameter than the opening in the fork tube
plug. This will allow air to exit the fork as-
sembly during the filling procedure.

7. Insert a clear plastic tube into the fork tube plug open-
ing. Attach a funnel to the plastic tube and refill each fork
leg with the correct viscosity and quantity of fork oil. Re-
fer to Table 7. Remove the funnel and plastic tube.
8. Repeat Step 7 for the opposite fork tube.
9. Install the fork tube cap, spacer and oil seal (Figure
21) onto the top of the fork tube. Tighten the fork tube cap
to 40-60 ft.-lb. (54-81 N•m).
10. Road test the motorcycle and check for leaks.

Control Cables (Non-Nylon Lined Cables)

The major cause of cable breakage or cable stiffness is

improper lubrication. Maintaining the cables as described
in this section will ensure long service life. Lubricate the
control cables with a cable lubricant at the intervals in Ta-
ble 1, or when they become stiff or sluggish. When lubri-
cating the control cables, inspect each cable for fraying
and cable sheath damage. Replace damaged cables.

CAUTION

If the original equipment cables have been
replaced with nylon-lined cables, do not lu-
bricate them as described in this procedure.
Oil and most cable lubricants will cause the
cable liner to expand, pushing the liner
against the cable sheath. Nylon-lined cables
are normally used dry. When servicing ny-
lon-lined and other aftermarket cables, fol-
low the manufacturer’s instructions.

CAUTION

Do not use chain lubricant to lubricate con-
trol cables.

CAUTION

On carbureted models, the starting enrich-
ment valve (choke) cable is designed to op-
erate with a certain amount of cable
resistance. Do

not

lubricate the enrichment

cable or its conduit.

1A. Disconnect the clutch cable ends as described under

Clutch Cable Replacement

in Chapter Five.

1B. Disconnect both throttle cable ends as described un-
der

Throttle and Idle Cables

in Chapter Seven.

2. Attach a lubricator tool to the cable following the tool
manufacturer’s instructions. Place a shop cloth at the end
of the cable to catch all excess lubricant.

3. Insert the lubricant nozzle tube into the lubricator,
press the button on the can and hold it down until the lu-
bricant begins to flow out of the other end of the cable. If
the lubricant squirts out from around the lubricator, it is
not clamped to the cable properly. Loosen and reposition
the cable lubricator.

NOTE

If the lubricant does not flow out of the other
end of the cable, check the cable for fraying,
bending or other damage. Replace damaged
cables.

4. Remove the lubricator tool and wipe off both ends of
the cable.

5A. Reconnect the clutch cable ends as described under

Clutch Cable Replacement

in Chapter Five.

5B. Reconnect both throttle cable ends as described under

Throttle and Idle Cable Replacement

in Chapter Seven.

6. Adjust the cables as described in this chapter.

CHAPTER THREE

Throttle Control Grip Lubrication

Table 1 lists the recommended throttle control grip lu-

brication intervals. To remove and install the throttle grip,
refer to

Throttle and Idle Cable Replacement

in Chapter

Seven. Lubricate the throttle control grip where it contacts
the handlebar with graphite.

Swing Arm Bearings

Lubricate the swing arm at the interval in Table 1. Refer

to Chapter Twelve for procedures.

Steering Head Lubrication

Lubricate the steering head bearings at the intervals in

Table 1. Wipe off all old grease and debris from the grease
fitting on the right side of the steering head. Apply grease
to the fitting (Figure 22) until the grease begins to flow out
of the top and bottom of the steering head. Wipe off all ex-
cessive grease from the steering head and the grease fitting.

Rocker Arm Bearing Lubrication and Adjustment
(FLSTS and FXSTS)

Clean, lubricate and adjust the rocker arms and spherical

bearings at the intervals in Table 1. Refer to Chapter Eleven.

Front Brake Lever Pivot Pin Lubrication

Inspect the front brake lever pivot pin for lubricant at

the intervals in Table 1. If the pin is dry, lubricate it with a
light weight oil. To service the pivot pin, refer to

Front

Master Cylinder

in Chapter Twelve.

Clutch Lever Pivot Pin Lubrication

Inspect the clutch lever pivot pin at the intervals in Table 1.

Lubricate the pin with a light weight oil. To service the pivot
pin, refer to

Clutch Cable Replacement

in Chapter Five.

Rear Brake Pedal Lubrication

1. Apply waterproof grease to the rear brake pedal fitting
(Figure 23).

2. Apply the rear brake to ensure the pedal is moving
smoothly.

Jiffy Stand Lubrication

1. Support the motorcycle on a stand or floor jack with
the rear wheel off the ground. See

Motorcycle Stands

Chapter Nine.

2. Wipe the pivot area clean of all road debris.

3. Move the jiffy stand (Figure 24) back and forth and
check for ease of movement.

4. If the leg stop is covered with mud and debris, remove
the bolt, lockwasher and washer securing the leg stop to
the pivot post. Remove the pivot post, thoroughly clean
all parts in solvent and dry.

5. Apply an aerosol Loctite Anti-Seize lubricant, or an
equivalent, onto the leg stop and the pivot area. Move the
jiffy stand back and forth to work in the lubricant.

6. If removed, position the leg stop with the DOWN mark
facing down, then install the washer, lockwasher and bolt.
Tighten the bolt to 144-180 in.-lb. (16-20 N•m).

7. Ensure that the jiffy stand operates correctly in both
positions prior to riding the motorcycle.

8. Lower the motorcycle to the ground.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

This section describes the periodic inspection, adjust-

ment and replacement of various operational items. Per-
form these procedures at the intervals in Table 1, or
earlier if necessary.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Primary Chain Adjustment

As the primary chain stretches and wears, its free play

movement increases. Excessive free play causes prema-
ture chain and sprocket wear and increases chain noise. If
the free play is adjusted too tight, the chain wears prema-
turely.

NOTE

On models equipped with the TSSM security
system, always disarm the system prior to
disconnecting the battery or the siren will
sound.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
Chapter Eight.
2. Support the motorcycle on a stand or floor jack with
the rear wheel off the ground. See

Motorcycle Stands

Chapter Nine.

NOTE

Note the location of the inspection cover
screws. There are two different length
screws and they must be reinstalled in the
correct location.

3. Remove the primary chain inspection cover and gasket
(Figure 25).
4. Turn the primary chain to find the tightest point on the
chain. Measure chain free play at this point.

NOTE

Figure 26

is shown with the primary chain

cover removed to better illustrate the steps.

5. Check primary chain free play at the upper chain run
midway between the sprockets (Figure 26). If the primary
chain free play is incorrect, continue with Step 6. If the
free play is correct, go to Step 7. The primary chain free
play specifications are:

a. Cold engine: 5/8 to 7/8 in. (15.9-22. 3 mm).
b. Hot engine: 3/8 to 5/8 in. (9.5-15.9 mm).

6. To adjust the chain, perform the following:

a. Loosen the primary chain adjuster shoe nut (Figure

27).

b. Move the shoe assembly up or down to correct free

play.

c. Tighten the primary chain adjuster shoe nut (Figure

27) to 21-29 ft.-lb. (29-39 N•m), then recheck free
play.

7. Install the primary chain inspection cover (Figure 25)
and a

new

gasket. Tighten the cover screws to 84-108

in.-lb. (9.5-12.2 N•m).
8. Lower the motorcycle to the ground.

CHAPTER THREE

Final Drive Belt Deflection

Inspect drive belt deflection at the intervals in Table 1.

If the drive belt is severely worn, or if it is wearing incor-
rectly, refer to Chapter Twelve for inspection and replace-
ment procedures.

NOTE

Check the drive belt deflection when the belt
is cold.

1. On models so equipped, remove the left side saddlebag
as described in Chapter Fourteen.
2. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the drive chain
guard and remove the guard.
3. Support the motorcycle on a stand or floor jack with
the rear wheel off the ground. See

Motorcycle Stands

Chapter Nine.
4. Then turn the rear wheel and check the drive belt for its
tightest point. When this point is located, turn the wheel
so the belt’s tight spot is on the lower belt run, midway be-
tween the front and rear sprockets.
5. Lower the motorcycle to the ground.
6. Position the motorcycle so both wheels are on the
ground. When checking and adjusting drive belt deflec-
tion in the following steps, have an assistant sit on the seat
facing forward.

NOTE

Use the Harley-Davidson belt tension
gauge (part No. HD-35381) or equivalent to
apply pressure against the drive belt in Step
7.

7. Apply a force of 10 lb. (4.5 kg) to the middle of the up-
per belt strand while measuring the belt’s deflection mea-
surement at the same point (Figure 28). Compare the
correct belt deflection measurement with the specification
in Table 8. If the deflection measurement is incorrect, ad-
just the drive belt as follows:

a. If so equipped, remove the chrome trim cap (Figure

29) from each side.

b. On the left side, remove the spring clip (Figure 30)

and loosen the rear axle nut (Figure 31).

c. Loosen the jam nut (A, Figure 32) on the rear axle

adjuster (B) on each side of the swing arm.

d. Turn both adjusters (B, Figure 32), in either direc-

tion, an equal number of turns to obtain the correct
drive belt deflection.

e. Recheck the drive belt deflection. Tighten the jam

nuts securely.

f. Check that the rear axle is positioned correctly

within the swing arm as described under

Vehicle

Alignment

in the following procedure.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

10 lbs
(4.5 kg)

Belt
deflection

8. When the drive belt deflection and axle alignment ad-
justments are correct, tighten the rear axle nut to 60-65
ft.-lb. (81-88 N•m). Install the spring clip through the axle
nut and rear axle (Figure 30). If necessary, slightly tighten
the rear axle nut to align the axle hole and nut slots in or-
der to install the spring clip.

Vehicle Alignment

There are two different types of vehicle alignment and

they should be checked in the following order:
1. Horizontal offset misalignment.
2. Vertical misalignment.

NOTE

Prior to checking for vehicle alignment, the
tires and rims must be true and the front
wheel must be centered within the front fork
and fender bosses.

Horizontal alignment (FXST models)

1. Support the motorcycle on a floor jack with the rear
wheel off the ground. Do not use a bike stand as it may in-
terfere with the straightedges.
2. Place a girder-type straightedge tightly against each
side of the rear tire (Figure 33). Make sure the straight-
edges are parallel to each other and have an assistant hold
them in place.
3. Place the front wheel in the straight ahead position and
block it in this position.

NOTE

The following measurements must be equal.
If necessary, slightly turn the front wheel to
center it.

4. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the left
side of the front wheel rim. Take the measurement at the
rear (A) and front (B) of the wheel rim. Note the dimen-
sions.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the right
side of the front wheel rim. Take the measurement at the
rear (C) and front (D) of the wheel rim. Note the dimen-
sions.
6. Subtract the difference from the two sides and compare
to the dimensions in Table 9. The difference between the
two sides should be within 0.250 in. (6.35 mm) of the
specified dimension in Table 9.
7. If the offset is not within specification, check the fol-
lowing:

a. On laced wheels, make sure the rim offset dimen-

sion is within specification. Refer to Table 10. If out

of specification, have the wheel trued by a
Harley-Davidson dealership or wheel specialist.

b. Check that the center of the rear axle is equidistant

from the center of the rear swing arm pivot shaft.

Horizontal alignment (FLST models)

left

side of the rear tire (Figure 34). Have an assistant hold the
straightedge in place.
3. Place the front wheel in the straight ahead position and
block it in this position.

NOTE

The following measurements must be equal.
If necessary, slightly turn the front wheel to
center it.

4. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the left
side of the front wheel rim. Take the measurement at the
rear (A) and front (B) of the wheel rim. Note the dimen-
sions.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the left
side of the rear wheel rim. Take the measurement at the
rear (C) and front (D) of the wheel rim. Note the dimen-
sions.
6. Subtract the rear wheel measurement from the front
wheel measurement and compare to the dimensions in Ta-
ble 9. The difference between the two dimensions should
be within 0.250 in. (6.35 mm) of the specified dimension
in Table 9.
7. If the offset is not within specification, check the fol-
lowing:

a. On laced wheels, make sure the rim offset dimen-

sion is within specification. Refer to Table 10. If out

CHAPTER THREE

of specification, have the wheel trued by a
Harley-Davidson dealership or wheel specialist.

b. Check that the center of the rear axle is equidistant

from the center of the rear swing arm pivot shaft on
both sides.

Vertical alignment (all models)

1. Support the motorcycle on a floor jack with the rear
wheel off the ground.
2. Place a girder-type straightedge tightly against each
side of the rear tire (Figure 33). Make sure the straight-
edges are parallel to each other and have an assistant hold
them in place.

3. Place the front wheel in the straight ahead position and
block it in this position.

4. Place an inclinometer on the face of the front disc in a
true vertical position. Note the reading.

5. Do not allow the motorcycle to move.

6. Place an inclinometer on the face of the rear disc in a
true vertical position. Note the reading.

7. Compare the two different readings. If there are more
than 0.5

degrees

apart, there is a possibility that the frame,

fork assembly or swing arm assembly may be bent.

8. Have these chassis components inspected by a
Harley-Davidson dealership or frame specialist to con-
firm the readings.

9. Repair or replace any damaged components.

Brake Pad Inspection

1. Without removing the front (Figure 35) or rear (Fig-
ure 36) brake calipers, inspect the brake pads for dam-
age.

2. Measure the thickness of each brake pad lining (Fig-
ure 37) with a ruler. Replace the brake pad if its thick-
ness is worn to the minimum thickness in Table 8.
Replace the brake pads as described in Chapter Thirteen.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Rear wheel

Straightedges

Straightedge

Rear wheel

Brake Fluid Level

1. To check the front master cylinder, perform the follow-
ing:

a. Turn the handlebar straight ahead so the master cyl-

inder is level.

b. Observe the brake fluid level by looking at the sight

glass (Figure 38) on the master cylinder reservoir
top cover. If the fluid level is correct, the sight glass
will be dark purple. If the level is low, the sight glass
will have a lightened, clear appearance.

NOTE

Access to the rear master cylinder is re-
stricted by the exhaust system. Checking the
fluid level and replenishing the fluid is eas-
ier with the front cylinder’s exhaust pipe re-
moved. Refer to Chapter Seven.

2. To check the rear master cylinder, perform the follow-
ing:

a. Support the motorcycle so the rear master cylinder

is level.

b. Observe the brake fluid level by looking at the sight

glass (A, Figure 39) on the master cylinder reser-
voir top cover. If the fluid level is correct, the sight
glass will be dark purple. If the level is low, the sight
glass will have a lightened, clear appearance.

WARNING

Do not use brake fluid labeled

DOT 5.1

This is a glycol-based fluid that is

not

compatible

with silicone based DOT 5.

DOT 5 brake fluid is purple while DOT 5.1
is an amber/clear color. Do not intermix
these different types of brake fluid, as do-
ing so will lead to brake component dam-
age and possible brake failure.

CAUTION

Be careful when handling brake fluid. Do
not spill it on painted or plastic surfaces, as
it damages them. Wash the area immediately
with soap and water, and thoroughly rinse
it.

NOTE

To control the flow of brake fluid, punch a
small hole in the seal of a new container of
brake fluid next to the edge of the pour
spout. This helps prevent the fluid spillage,
especially while adding fluid to the small
reservoir.

3. If the brake fluid level is low, perform the following:

a. Clean any dirt from the master cylinder cover prior

to removing it.

b. Remove the top cover (B, Figure 39) and lift the di-

aphragm out of the reservoir.

c. Add fresh DOT 5 brake fluid to correct the level.
d. Reinstall the diaphragm and top cover. Tighten the

screws securely.

WARNING

If the brake fluid level is low enough to al-
low air in the hydraulic system, bleed the
brakes as described in Chapter Thirteen.

CHAPTER THREE

BRAKE PAD

INSPECTION

Backing
plate

Friction
material

Minimum thickness

Front and Rear Brake Disc Inspection

Visually inspect the front and rear brake discs (Figure

40, typical) for scoring, cracks or other damage. Measure
the brake disc thickness (Figure 41) and, if necessary, ser-
vice the brake discs as described in Chapter Thirteen.

Brake Lines and Seals

Check the brake lines between each master cylinder and

each brake caliper. If there is any leakage, tighten the con-
nections and bleed the brakes as described in Chapter
Thirteen.

Brake Fluid Change

Every time the reservoir cover is removed, a small

amount of dirt and moisture enters the brake fluid. The
same thing happens if there is a leak or if any part of the
hydraulic system is loosened or disconnected. Dirt can
clog the system and cause unnecessary wear. Water in the
fluid vaporizes at high temperatures, impairing the hy-
draulic action and reducing brake performance.

To change brake fluid, follow the brake bleeding proce-

dure in Chapter Thirteen. Continue adding new fluid to
the master cylinder until the fluid leaving the caliper is
clean and free of contaminants and air bubbles.

WARNING

Do not use brake fluid labeled

DOT 5.1

This is a glycol-based fluid that is

not com-

patible

with silicone based DOT 5. DOT 5

brake fluid is purple while DOT 5.1 is an
amber/clear color. Do not intermix these
different types of brake fluid, as doing so
will lead to brake component damage and
possible brake failure.

Front Brake Adjustment

The front brake does not require periodic adjustment.

Rear Brake Adjustment

The rear brake does not require periodic adjustment.

Clutch Adjustment

CAUTION

Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance
increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, in-
sufficient pushrod clearance can cause the
clutch to slip.

1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring (Figure 42).
2. Remove the clamp (A, Figure 43) and slide the rubber
boot (B) off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut (A, Figure 44) and turn
the adjuster (B) to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch
(Figure 45) at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting
screw locknut (A, Figure 46) and turn the adjusting screw
(B)

clockwise

until it is lightly seated.

6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the
clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism lo-
cated behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw (B, Figure 46)

counter-

clockwise

1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw (B,

Figure 46) and tighten the locknut (A) to 72-120 in.-lb.
(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum
limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release
mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:

a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away

from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the
clutch hand lever.

b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch le-

ver, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the
clearance gap (Figure 47) in Table 8.

c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch

in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over
the cable adjuster.

10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the
primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover (Figure 42) and
tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

CHAPTER THREE

Throttle Cables Inspection

Inspect the throttle cables from the grip to the carbure-

tor or the fuel injector module. Make sure they are not
kinked or chafed. Replace them if necessary as described
in Chapter Seven.

Make sure the throttle grip rotates smoothly from fully

closed to fully open. Check with the handlebar at the cen-
ter, full left and full right positions.

Throttle Cables Adjustment

There are two different throttle cables. At the throttle

grip, the front cable is the throttle control cable (A, Figure
48) and the rear cable is the idle control cable (B).

The outboard cable is the throttle control cable (A, Fig-

ure 49) and the inboard cable is the idle control cable (B).
1. Remove the air filter and backing plate as described in
Chapter Seven.
2. Roll the rubber boots (Figure 50) off the adjusters.
3. At the handlebar, loosen both control cable adjuster
locknuts, then turn the cable adjusters (C, Figure 48)

clockwise

as far as possible to increase cable slack.

4. Turn the handlebars so the front wheel points straight
ahead. Then turn the throttle grip to open the throttle com-
pletely and hold it in this position.

NOTE

Figure 51

is shown with the carburetor

body removed to better illustrate the steps.

5A. On carbureted models, at the handlebar, turn the throt-
tle control cable adjuster (C, Figure 48)

counterclockwise

until the throttle cam (A, Figure 51) stop just touches the
stop boss (B) on the carburetor body. Then tighten the
throttle cable adjuster locknut and release the throttle grip.
5B. On fuel injected models, at the handlebar, turn the
throttle control cable adjuster (C, Figure 48)

counter-

clockwise

until the throttle cam (A, Figure 52) stop just

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Clutch cable

Free play

touches the cam stop (B) on the throttle body. Then
tighten the throttle cable adjuster locknut and release the
throttle grip.
6. Turn the front wheel all the way to the full right lock
position and hold it there.
7A. On carbureted models, at the handlebar, turn the idle
cable adjuster (C, Figure 48) until the lower end of the
idle control cable just contacts the spring in the carburetor
cable guide (C, Figure 51). Tighten the idle cable locknut.
7B. On fuel injected models, at the handlebar, turn the idle
cable adjuster (C, Figure 48) until the lower end of the
idle control cable housing just contacts the spring in the
cable support sleeve (C, Figure 52). Tighten the idle cable
locknut.
8. Install the backing plate and the air filter as described
in Chapter Seven.
9. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL and start the en-
gine.
10. Increase engine speed several times. Release the
throttle and make sure the engine speed returns to idle. If
the engine speed does not return to idle, at the handlebar,
loosen the idle control cable adjuster locknut and turn the
cable adjuster

clockwise

as required. Tighten the idle con-

trol cable adjuster locknut.
11. Allow the engine to idle in NEUTRAL. Then turn the
handlebar from side to side. Do not operate the throttle. If
the engine speed increases when the handlebar assembly
is turned, the throttle cables are routed incorrectly or dam-
aged. Turn off the engine. Recheck cable routing and ad-
justment.
12. Roll the rubber boots (Figure 50) back onto the ad-
justers.

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the throttle
cables are properly adjusted. Also, the ca-
bles must not catch or pull when the handle-
bar is turned from side to side. Improper
cable routing and adjustment can cause the
throttle to stick open. This could cause loss
of control and a possible crash. Recheck this
adjustment before riding the motorcycle.

Starting Enrichment Valve (Choke)
Cable Adjustment (Carbureted Models)

The starting enrichment (choke) knob should move

from fully open to fully closed position without any sign
of binding. The knob should also stay in its fully closed or
fully open position without creeping. If the knob does not
stay in position, adjust tension on the cable by turning the
plastic knurled nut behind the knob as follows:

CAUTION

The starting enrichment (choke) cable must
have sufficient cable resistance to work
properly. Do not lubricate the enrichment
cable or its conduit.

1. Loosen the hex nut behind the mounting bracket.
Then move the cable to free it from its mounting bracket
slot.

2. Hold the cable across its flats with a wrench and turn
the knurled plastic nut

counterclockwise

to reduce cable

resistance. The knob must slide inward freely.

3. Turn the knurled plastic nut (Figure 53)

clockwise

increase cable resistance. Continue adjustment until the

CHAPTER THREE

ENRICHMENT CABLE

(CARBURETED MODELS)

Washer

Enrichment knob

Hex nut

Flat

Plastic
knurled nut

knob remains stationary when it is pulled all the way out.
The knob must move without any roughness or binding.
4. Reinstall the cable into the slot in its mounting bracket
with the star washer located between the bracket and hex
nut. Tighten the hex nut securely.
5. Recheck the knob movement and readjust if necessary.

Fuel Line Inspection

Inspect the fuel line(s) (Figure 54) from the fuel tank to

the carburetor or fuel injection module. Check the fuel
tank crossover fuel line (Figure 55). Replace leaking or
damaged fuel lines. Make sure the hose clamps are in
place and holding securely. Check the hose fittings for
looseness.

WARNING

A damaged or deteriorated fuel line can
cause a fire or explosion if fuel spills onto a
hot engine or exhaust pipe.

Exhaust System

Check all fittings for exhaust leakage. On models so

equipped, do not forget the crossover pipe or intercon-

necting tube connections. Tighten all bolts and nuts. Re-
place gaskets as necessary. See Chapter Seven for re-
moval and installation procedures.

Steering Play

Check the steering head play (Chapter Ten) at the inter-

vals in Table 1.

Rear Swing Arm Pivot Bolt

Check the rear swing arm pivot bolt tightness (Chapter

Eleven) at the intervals specified in Table 1.

Rear Shock Absorbers

Check the rear shock absorbers for oil leakage or dam-

aged bushings. Check the shock absorber mounting bolts
and nuts for tightness. Refer to

Shock Absorbers

in Chap-

ter Twelve for procedures.

Engine Mounting Hardware

Check the engine and frame mounts for loose or dam-

aged parts. Refer to Chapter Four for procedures.

Fasteners

CAUTION

Special procedures must be used to tighten
the cylinder head mounting bolts. To accu-
rately check these bolts for tightness, refer
to

Cylinder Head Installation

in Chapter

Four. Tightening these bolts incorrectly can
cause an oil leak or cylinder head warp.

Constant vibration can loosen many fasteners on a mo-

torcycle. Check the tightness of all fasteners, especially
those on:

1. Engine mounting hardware.

2. Engine and primary covers.

3. Handlebar and front fork.

4. Gearshift lever.

5. Sprocket bolts and nuts.

6. Brake lever and pedal.

7. Exhaust system.

8. Lighting equipment.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Electrical Equipment and Switches

Check all of the electrical equipment and switches for

proper operation. Refer to Chapter Eight.

TUNE-UP

The following section describes tune-up procedures.

Perform the tasks at the intervals listed in Table 1. Per-
form a complete tune-up in the following order:
1. Clean or replace the air filter element.
2. Check engine compression.
3. Check or replace the spark plugs.
4. On carbureted models, adjust the idle speed.

Air Filter Element Removal/Installation

Remove and inspect the air filter at the interval in Table

1. If necessary, clean the element. Replace the element if it
is damaged or starting to deteriorate.

The air filter removes dust and abrasive particles before

the air enters the carburetor, or fuel-injection module and
the engine. Without the air filter, very fine particles will
enter the engine and cause rapid wear of the piston rings,
cylinder bores and bearings. Particles also might clog

cle without the element installed.

Refer to Figure 56 or Figure 57.

1. Remove the air filter cover screw (A, Figure 58) and
remove the cover (B).
2. Remove the Torx screws and bracket (Figure 59) from
the air filter element.
3. Gently pull the air filter element from the backplate
and disconnect the two breather hoses (A, Figure 60)
from the breather hollow bolts on the backplate. Remove
the air filter element (B, Figure 60).
4. Clean the air filter as described in the following proce-
dure.
5. Inspect the gasket (A, Figure 61) for damage. Replace
it if necessary.
6. Inspect the breather hoses (B, Figure 61) for tears or
deterioration. Replace them if necessary.

NOTE

Figure 62

is shown with the air filter

backplate removed to better illustrate the
step.

7. On California models, make sure the trap door swings
freely (Figure 62).
8. If they were removed, install a new gasket (A, Figure
61) and breather hoses (B).

9. Position the element with the flat side facing down and
attach the breather hoses (Figure 63) to the backside of
the element.

NOTE

If an aftermarket air filter element is being
installed, position it onto the backplate fol-
lowing the manufacturer’s instructions.

10. Move the element into position (B, Figure 61) and in-
stall the mounting bracket (Figure 59) and the Torx
screws. Tighten the screws to 20-40 in.-lb. (2-4 N•m).
11. Inspect the seal ring (Figure 64) on the air filter cover
for hardness or deterioration. Replace it if necessary.
12. Apply a drop of ThreeBond TB1342 (blue) or an
equivalent threadlocking compound to the cover screw
prior to installation.
13. Install the air filter cover (B, Figure 58) and the
screw (A). Tighten the screw to 36-60 in.-lb. (4-7 N•m).

Air Filter Element Cleaning

The air filter element is a paper/wire type (Figure 63) .

If an aftermarket element is installed, refer to the manu-
facturer’s cleaning instructions.
1. Remove the air filter element as described in this chap-
ter.
2. Replace the air filter if damaged.

WARNING

Do not clean the air filter in solvent. Never
clean the air filter element in gasoline or
low flash point solvent. The residual solvent
or vapors may cause a fire or explosion af-
ter the filter is reinstalled.

CAUTION

Do not tap or strike the air filter element on
a hard surface to dislodge dirt. Doing so
will damage the element.

3. Place the air filter in a pan filled with lukewarm water
and mild detergent. Move the air filter element back and
forth to help dislodge trapped dirt. Thoroughly rinse it in
clean water to remove all detergent residue.
4. Hold the air filter up to a strong light. Check the filter
pores for dirt and oil. Repeat Step 3 until there is no dirt
and oil in the filter pores. If the air filter cannot be cleaned,
or if the filter is saturated with oil or other chemicals, re-
place it.

CAUTION

Do not use high air pressure to dry the filter,
as this will damage it.

CHAPTER THREE

small passages in the carburetor. Never run the motorcy-

CAUTION

In the next step, do not blow compressed air
through the outer surface of the air filter el-
ement. Doing so can force dirt trapped on
the outer filter surface deeper into the air
filter element, restricting airflow and dam-
aging the air filter element.

5. Gently apply compressed air through the inside sur-
face of the air filter element to remove loosened dirt and
dust trapped in the filter.

6. Inspect the air filter element. Replace it if it is torn or
damaged. Do not ride the motorcycle with a damaged air
filter element as it will allow dirt to enter the engine.

7. Clean the breather hoses in the same lukewarm water
and mild detergent. Make sure both hoses are clean and
clear. Clean them out with a pipe cleaner if necessary.

8. Wipe the inside of the cover and backplate with a clean
damp shop rag.

CAUTION

Air will not pass through a wet or damp fil-
ter. Make sure the filter is dry before install-
ing it.

9. Allow the filter to dry completely, then reinstall it as
described in this chapter.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

AIR FILTER (CARBURETED MODELS)

1. Backplate (California)
2. Gasket
3. O-ring
4. Gasket
5. Breather hollow bolt
6. Breather hose
7. Gasket
8. Air filter
9. Torx screw

10. Mounting bracket
11. Backing plate

(other than California and
HDI models)

12. Backing plate (HDI models)
13. Seal (California models)
14. Cover (California models)
15. Trim plate
16. Screw
17. Seal (other than

California models)

18. Cover

(other than California models)

Compression Test

A compression check is one of the most effective ways to
check the condition of the engine. If possible, check the
compression at each tune-up, and record the results in the
maintenance log at the end of this manual. Subsequent re-
sults can then be compared to earlier ones to help evaluate
any developing engine problems.

1. Prior to starting the compression test, check the follow-
ing:

a. Make sure the cylinder head bolts are tightened as

specified in Chapter Four.

b. Make sure the battery is fully charged to ensure

proper engine cranking speed.

2. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
Shut off the engine.
3. Remove the spark plugs and reinstall them in their
caps. Place the spark plugs against the cylinder heads to
ground them.
4. Connect the compression tester (Figure 65) to one cyl-
inder following its manufacturer’s instructions.
5. Place the throttle in the wide-open position.
6. On carbureted models, make sure the starting enrich-
ment (choke) knob is pushed in to the fully OFF position.

CHAPTER THREE

AIR FILTER (FUEL INJECTED MODELS)

1. Torx screw
2. Mounting bracket
3. Air filter
4. Breather hose
5. Breather hollow bolt
6. Gasket
7. O-ring
8. Gasket
9. Backing plate (other

than HDI models)

10. Trim plate
11. Screw
12. Cover
13. Seal
14. Backing plate

(HDI models)

Content .. 8 9 10 11 ..