13 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale printed on the
Plastigage envelope, to obtain the running
clearance (see illustration 20.15). Compare it
to the Specifications, to make sure the
clearance is correct.
14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition (see Section
16), it may be possible simply to renew the
shells to achieve the correct clearance. If this
is not possible, the crankshaft must be
reground by a specialist, who can also supply
the necessary undersized shells. First though,
make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped
between the bearing shells and the
connecting rod or cap when the clearance
was measured. Also, recheck the crankpin
diameter. If the Plastigage was wider at one
end than the other, the crankpin journal may
be tapered (see Section 16).
15 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card.
Final piston/connecting rod
refitting
16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17 Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as
described above.
18 Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19 The important points to remember are:
a)
Keep the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.
b)
Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder -
use the etched cylinder numbers to
identify the front-facing side of both the
rod and its cap.
c)
The arrow on the piston crown must face
the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
d)
Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean
engine oil.
e)
Lubricate the bearing surfaces when
refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked.
20 After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.
21 On the HCS engine, if the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer was removed, this is a good time
to refit it. First clean the joint area, then coat
the area indicated with the specified activator
(available from Ford dealers) (see
illustration). Wait for a period of ten minutes,
then smear the shaded area with the specified
adhesive and immediately press the inlet pipe
into position in the crankcase.
22 Engine -
initial start-up after overhaul
1
1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove
fuse 5 (fuel-injected engines) to disconnect
the fuel pump. Turn the engine on the starter
until the oil pressure warning light goes out.
3 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect the
ignition coil. On fuel-injected engines, refit the
fuel pump fuse, switch on the ignition and listen
for the fuel pump; it will run for a little longer than
usual, due to the lack of pressure in the system.
4 Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets (where applicable)
have been disturbed, some valve gear noise
may be heard at first; this should disappear as
the oil circulates fully around the engine, and
normal pressure is restored in the tappets.
6 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
8 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly
- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must not be
re-tightened.
9 If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during
this period. It is recommended that the oil and
filter be changed at the end of this period.
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•29
21.21 Oil inlet pipe refitting details on the
HCS engine
A Area of sealant application -
dimensions in mm
B Edge must be parallel with engine
longitudinal axis
21.11B . . . or a fabricated type as shown
21.11A Angle-tightening the big-end bolts
using the correct tool . . .
2D