Ford Orion. Manual - part 27

6 By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,
you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal, near
the webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered.
7 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the
limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft
must be taken to an engine overhaul
specialist, who will regrind it, and who can
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
8 Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in its
journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist,
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible, or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.

17 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

4

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1. A Ford
dealer, or a good engine reconditioning
specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be
able to suggest alternatives which will enable
you to overcome the lack of replacement
parts.
1 Even though the main and big-end bearing
shells should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old shells should be retained for
close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine (see illustration).
2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of

lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled, to prevent it from happening
again.
3 When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase and
main bearing caps, and from the connecting
rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay
them out on a clean surface in the same
general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s
bearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil, and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,
especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned using the proper cleaning methods.
Whatever the source, these foreign objects
often end up embedded in the soft bearing
material, and are easily recognised. Large
particles will not embed in the material, and
will score or gouge the shell and journal. The
best prevention for this cause of bearing
failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to
keep everything spotlessly-clean during
engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine
oil and filter changes are also recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of inter-related
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive
bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high
engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which
usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in
a bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil,
and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the
cause of bearing failure, the bearing material
is wiped or extruded from the shell’s steel
backing. Temperatures may increase to the
point where the steel backing turns blue from
overheating.
6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the shells to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces, and tear away
from the steel backing. Short-distance driving
leads to corrosion of bearings, because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off condensed water and corrosive gases.
These products collect in the engine oil,

forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried
to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7 Incorrect shell refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing
running clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing, which lead to failure. Do not
touch any shell’s bearing surface with your
fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of
scratching the delicate surface, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.

18 Engine overhaul - 

reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins ensure that all
new parts have been obtained and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with
the work involved, and to ensure that all items
necessary for reassembly of the engine are at
hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed during engine
reassembly. For general-purpose applications,
it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting
sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer
be used for joints where required, and Loctite
270 for stud and bolt thread-locking. For
specific applications on the Zetec engine,
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps should be used. These are
recommended by, and obtained from, Ford
dealers. In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do not use any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold, and never use exhaust sealants
upstream of the catalytic converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
a)

Engine ventilation cap (CVH engine).

b)

Tappets and camshaft (HCS engine).

c)

Crankshaft and main bearings.

d)

Pistons and connecting rods.

e)

Oil pump.

f)

Sump.

g)

Flywheel/driveplate.

h)

Cylinder head.

i)

Timing sprockets and chain/belt.

j)

Engine external components.

3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•25

17.1  When inspecting the main and big-

end bearings, look for these problems

2D

19 Piston rings - refitting

2

1 Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep
them together as a matched set from now on.
2 Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found. The feeler
gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to the value given in the Specifi-
cations in this Chapter; if the gap is larger or
smaller than specified, double-check to make
sure you have the correct rings before
proceeding. If you are assessing the condition
of used rings, have the cylinder bores
checked and measured by a Ford dealer or
similar engine reconditioning specialist, so
that you can be sure of exactly which
component is worn, and seek advice as to the
best course of action to take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends

using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration).
Note: Always follow the manuals printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an
anti-rotation tang is used, make sure it is
inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.
Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a
piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side
rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place
one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is
installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10 On the HCS engine, when all of the rings

are fitted to each piston, arrange them so that
the gaps are positioned as specified.
11 On the CVH engine, when all of the rings
are fitted to each piston, arrange them so that
the gaps are spaced at 120º intervals, with no
gaps positioned above the gudgeon pin hole.
12 On the Zetec engine, when all the rings
are fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps
(including the elements of the oil control 
ring) uniformly around the piston at 120º
intervals.

20 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running
clearance check 

4

1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Main bearing running clearance
check

HCS engine

4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower shells are plain, and have a
wider location lug). Where the old main
bearings are being refitted, ensure that they
are located in their original positions. Make
sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into
the notch in the block or cap. 

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells
into place, and don’t nick or
gouge the bearing faces. No
lubrication should be used at this
time.

5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase, so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration).

CVH engine

6 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that with the exception of the front main
bearing, the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower half bearings are plain). The
upper and lower front shells are narrower in
section, and both have an oil groove in them.
Where the old main bearings are being
refitted, ensure that they are located in their

2D•26 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

20.5  Place the crankshaft thrustwashers

into position in the crankcase so that their

oil grooves are facing outwards

19.6  Look for etched markings (“STD” -

indicating a standard-sized ring - shown

here) identifying piston ring top surface

19.3  With the ring square in the bore,

measure the end gap with a   feeler gauge

original positions (see illustration). Make sure
that the tab on each bearing shell fits into the
notch in the block or cap. 

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells
into place, and don’t nick or
gouge the bearing faces. No
lubrication should be used at this
time.

7 Relocate the crankcase ventilation cap and
its retaining spring into position in the
crankcase (see illustration).
8 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web).

Zetec engine

9 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
new main bearing shells. Fit the shells with an
oil groove in each main bearing location in the
block; note the thrustwashers integral with the
No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell. Fit the
other shell from each bearing set in the
corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure
the tab on each bearing shell fits into the
notch in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in
the block must line up with the oil holes in the
bearing shell (see illustration). 

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells
into place, and don’t nick or
gouge the bearing faces. No
lubrication should be used at this
time.

All engines

10 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in
the block, and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or
clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any
dirt here can go only one way - straight
through the new bearings.
11 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is
clean, carefully lay it in position in the main
bearings. Trim several pieces of the
appropriate-size Plastigage (they must be
slightly shorter than the width of the main
bearings), and place one piece on each
crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with
the crankshaft centre-line (see illustration).
12 Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap
shells, and install the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing to the timing belt end of the engine
(see illustration). Don’t disturb the
Plastigage.
13 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting. Don’t rotate the crankshaft at
any time during this operation!
14 Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t
disturb the Plastigage or rotate the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are
difficult to remove, tap them gently from

side-to-side with a soft-faced mallet to loosen
them.
15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage on each journal with the scale
printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration). Check the Specifications to
make sure that the clearance is correct.
16 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition (see Sec-
tion 16), it may be possible simply to renew
the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If
this is not possible, the crankshaft must be
reground by a specialist who can supply the
necessary undersized shells. First though,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is
noticeably wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered (see Section 16).
17 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the main bearing
journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very
careful not to scratch the bearing - use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•27

20.9  Tab on each bearing shell must

engage with notch in block or cap, and oil

holes in upper shells must align with block

oilways

20.7  Fit the crankcase ventilation cap and

its retaining spring

20.6  Fit the bearing shells to the main

bearing housings in the crankcase

20.15  Compare the width of the crushed

Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to

determine the main bearing oil clearance

(always take the measurement at the

widest point of the Plastigage). Be sure to
use the correct scale; Imperial and metric

scales are included

20.12  Refit the main bearing caps and

tighten the bolts as specified

20.11  Lay the Plastigage strips (arrowed)

on the main bearing journals, parallel to

the crankshaft centre-line

2D

Final refitting

18 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the
shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform
layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based
grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean
engine oil to each surface (see illustration).
Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well.
19 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals
with molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.
20 Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block (see illustration). Clean the bearing
surfaces of the shells in the caps, then
lubricate them. Install the caps in their
respective positions, with the arrows pointing
to the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
21 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting.
22 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand, to check for any obvious binding.
23 Check the crankshaft endfloat (see
Section 13). It should be correct if the
crankshaft thrust faces aren’t worn or
damaged.
24 Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil seal
carrier, and install a new seal (see Part A, B or
C of this Chapter according to engine type).

21 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - refitting and big-
end bearing clearance check

4

Note: On the HCS engine, new big-end
bearing cap retaining bolts will be required for
reassembly.
1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder bores must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1
cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks
noted or made on removal). Remove the
original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing
recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a
clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly-clean!

Big-end bearing clearance
check

3 Clean the back of the new upper bearing
shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the
other shell of the bearing set to the big-end
bearing cap. Make sure that the tab on each
shell fits into the notch in the rod or cap
recess (see illustration). 

Caution: Don’t hammer the 
shells into place, and don’t nick
or gouge the bearing face. 
Don’t lubricate the bearing at this
time.

4 It’s critically important that all mating
surfaces of the bearing components are
perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re
assembled.
5 Position the piston ring gaps as described
in Section 19, lubricate the piston and rings
with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the
piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must
be compressed until they’re flush with the
piston.
6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin
(big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom Dead
Centre), and apply a coat of engine oil to the
cylinder walls.
7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod
assembly so that the arrow on the piston
crown points to the timing belt/chain end of
the engine. Gently insert the assembly into the
No 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge
of the ring compressor on the engine block.
8 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to
make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the
end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration), while guiding the connecting
rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston
rings may try to pop out of the ring
compressor just before entering the cylinder
bore, so keep some pressure on the ring
compressor. Work slowly, and if any
resistance is felt as the piston enters the
cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s
binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,
for any reason, force the piston into the
cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the
piston.
10 To check the big-end bearing running
clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size
Plastigage slightly shorter than the width of
the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place
on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel
with the crankshaft centre-line

(see

illustration 20.11).
11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating
surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.
Tighten the cap bolts evenly - on the HCS and
Zetec engines, first use a torque wrench to
tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting,
then use an ordinary socket extension bar and
an angle gauge to tighten the bolts further
through the Stage 2 angle (see illustrations).
On the CVH engine, tighten the bolts
progressively to the specified torque; further
angle-tightening is not required on these
engines. Use a thin-wall socket, to avoid
erroneous torque readings that can result if
the socket is wedged between the cap and
nut. If the socket tends to wedge itself
between the nut and the cap, lift up on it
slightly until it no longer contacts the cap.
Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during
this operation!
12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,
being very careful not to disturb the
Plastigage.

2D•28 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

21.9  The piston can be driven gently into

the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden

or plastic hammer handle

21.3  Tab on each big-end bearing shell

must engage with notch in connecting rod

or cap

20.20  . . . and refit the crankshaft

20.18  Ensure bearing shells are absolutely

clean, lubricate liberally . . .