Harley Davidson 1999-2005 Harley Dyna Models. Repair Manual

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380

CHAPTER NINE

REAR WHEEL

Removal

1. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off

the ground with an appropriate size jack (A, Figure

14).

NOTE

This procedure is shown with the com-

plete exhaust system removed to

better illustrate the steps.

2. Remove the rear cylinder’s muffler as described

in Chapter Seven.

3. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the drive

belt guard (A, Figure 15) and remove the guard.

4. On models with a low cut rear fender, it may be

necessary to remove the screws securing the drive

belt lower deflector (B, Figure 15) and remove it.

NOTE

The rear wheel is heavy and can be

difficult to remove. Check the

tire-to-ground clearance before re-

moving the rear axle. If necessary,

have an assistant help in the re-

moval.

5. On international models, remove the cover from

the rear axle nut.

6. Remove the spring clip (A, Figure 16) from the

rear axle nut and axle.

7. Loosen and remove the axle nut (B, Figure 16)

and washer.

8. From the right side, withdraw the rear axle (B,

Figure 14) while holding onto the rear wheel.

Lower the rear wheel to the ground.

9. On 2000-on models, remove the rear brake cali-

per (Figure 17) from the swing arm and tie it up to

the frame with a bungee cord or wire.

10. Remove the right side (Figure 18) and left side

(Figure 19) spacers from the wheel hub.

11. Lift the drive belt off the driven sprocket (A,

Figure 20) and remove the rear wheel (B).

12. On 1999 models, slide the rear brake caliper off

the locating post on the swing arm and tie it up to the

frame with a bungee cord or wire.

NOTE

Place a plastic or wooden spacer be-

tween the brake pads in place of the

disc. Then, if the brake pedal is inad-

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

381

vertently depressed, the pistons will

not be forced out of the caliper. If this

occurs, disassemble the caliper to re-

seat the pistons.

CAUTION

Do not set the wheel down on the

brake disc surface, as it may be dam-

aged.

13. Inspect the rear wheel as described in this chap-

ter.

Installation

1. Clean the axle in solvent and dry thoroughly.

Make sure the bearing surfaces on the axle are free

from burrs and nicks.

2. Apply an antiseize lubricant to the axle shaft

prior to installation.

3. On 1999 models, slide the rear brake caliper onto

the locating post on the swing arm.

4. Position the rear wheel between the swing arm

sides and place the drive belt on the sprocket.

5. Install the right side (Figure 18) and left side

(Figure 19) spacers into the rear wheel oil seals.

6. Remove the spacer block from between the

brake pads.

CAUTION

When installing the rear wheel in the

following steps, carefully insert the

brake disc between the brake pads in

the caliper assembly. Do not force the

brake disc as it can damage the lead-

ing edge of both brake pads.

7. On 2000-on models, move the rear brake caliper

(Figure 17) into position on the swing arm.

8. Lift the rear wheel and install the rear axle from

the right side

(B, Figure

14). Install the axle

through the swing arm, the rear brake caliper

mounting bracket and the other side of the swing

arm.

9. After the rear axle is installed, check to make

sure both axle spacers are still in place.

10. Install the washer and axle nut (Figure 21).

Tighten the axle nut to the specification in Table 2.

11. On 1999 models, perform the Front and Rear

Axle End Play Check in this chapter. When the rear

axle end play is correct, continue with Step 12.

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CHAPTER NINE

FRONT LACED WHEEL (1999)

1. Front axle

2. Right side axle spacer

3. Brake disc

4. Oil seal

5. Bearing

6. Spacer sleeve

7. Wheel rim

8. Hub

9. Shim pack

10. Spacer washer

11. Left side axle spacer

12. Washer

13. Lockwasher

14. Axle nut

15. Bolt

16. Valve stem cap

17. Nut

18. Spoke

19. Balance weight

20. Spoke nipple

12. Check drive belt tension and alignment as de-

18. Remove the stand and lower the rear wheel to

scribed in Chapter Three.

the ground.

13. If necessary, tighten the axle nut to align the

spring pin hole with the nut slot. Then install a

Inspection

spring pin (A, Figure 16) and snap it into place.

14. Install the belt guard (A, Figure 15) and tighten

Replace any worn or damaged parts as described

the bolts and nuts securely.

in this section.

15. If removed install the debris deflector (B, Fig-

1. On 1999 models, inspect the oil seals for exces-

ure 15) and tighten the screws securely.

sive wear, hardness, cracks or other damage. If nec-

16. Install the rear cylinder’s muffler, or exhaust

essary, replace the seals as described under Front

system, as described in Chapter Seven.

and Rear Hubs in this chapter.

17. Rotate the wheel several times to make sure it

2. Turn each bearing inner race by hand. The bear-

rotates freely. Then apply the rear brake pedal sev-

ing must turn smoothly. Some axial play (end play)

eral times to seat the pads against the disc.

is normal, but radial play (side play) must be negli-

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

383

FRONT CAST WHEEL (1999)

1. Front axle

2. Right side axle spacer

3. Brake disc

4. Oil seal

5. Bearing

6. Cast wheel

7. Spacer sleeve

8. Shim pack

9. Spacer washer

10. Left side axle spacer

11. Washer

12. Lockwasher

13. Axle nut

14. Bolt

gible. See Figure 11. If one bearing is damaged, re-

Preliminary Inspection

place both bearings as a set. Refer to Front and Rear

Hubs in this chapter.

Inspect each wheel bearing prior to removing it

from the wheel hub.

3. Clean the axle and axle spacers in solvent to re-

move all grease and dirt. Make sure the axle contact

CAUTION

surfaces are free of dirt and old grease.

Do not remove the wheel bearing

4. Check the axle runout with a set of V-blocks and

outer races for inspection purposes as

a dial indicator (Figure 12).

they will be damaged during the re-

5. Check the spacers for wear, burrs and damage.

moval process. Remove wheel bear-

Replace as necessary.

ings only if they are to be replaced.

6. Check the brake disc bolts (Figure 22) for tight-

ness. To service the brake disc, refer to Chapter

1. Perform Steps 1-4 of the Disassembly proce-

Twelve.

dure.

2. Turn each bearing by hand. The bearings must

7. Check the final drive sprocket bolts (Figure 23)

turn smoothly with no roughness.

for tightness. Service for the final drive sprocket is

covered in this chapter.

3. Inspect the play of the inner race of each wheel

8. Check wheel runout and spoke tension as de-

bearing. Check for excessive axial play and radial

scribed in this chapter.

play. Replace the bearing if it has an excess amount

of free play.

4. Check the balls for evidence of wear, pitting or

FRONT AND REAR HUBS (1999)

excessive heat (bluish tint). Replace the bearings if

necessary; always replace as a complete set. When

Non-sealed tapered roller bearings are installed

replacing the bearings, make sure the replacement

on each side of the hub. Oil seals are installed on the

bearings match.

outside of each bearing to protect them from dirt

and other contaminants.

The bearing outer races are pressed into the hub.

Disassembly

Do not remove the bearing races unless they require

replacement.

Refer to Figures 24-27.

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384

CHAPTER NINE

REAR LACED WHEEL (1999)

1. Bolt

2. Cotter pin

3. Axle nut

4. Washer

5. Brake disc

6. Right side axle spacer

7. Oil seal

8. Bearing

9. Bearing outer race

10. Spacer washer

11. Shim pack

12. Spacer sleeve

13. Wheel rim

14. Spacer

15. Driven sprocket

16. Washer

17. Bolt

18. Valve stem cap

19. Nut

20. Balance weight

21. Spoke

22. Spoke nipple

23. Left side axle spacer

24. Rear axle

REAR CAST WHEEL (1999)

1. Bolt

2. Cotter pin

3. Axle nut

4. Washer

5. Brake disc

6. Right side axle spacer

7. Oil seal

8. Bearing

9. Bearing outer race

10. Spacer washer

11. Shim pack

12. Spacer sleeve

13. Cast wheel

14. Valve stem cap

15. Nut

16. Valve stem

17. Spacer

18. Driven sprocket

19. Washer

20. Bolt

21. Left side axle spacer

22. Rear axle

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

385

This procedure applies to both the front and rear

wheel and hub assemblies. Where differences occur

between the different hubs they are identified.

NOTE

The bearings and races are matched

pairs. Label all parts so that they will

be returned to their original positions.

1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this

chapter.

1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this

chapter.

2. If necessary, remove the brake disc as described

in Chapter Twelve.

3. If still in place, remove the axle spacers from the

hub.

4. Pry one of the oil seals out of the hub (Figure 28)

and remove the bearing (Figure 29) and spacer

sleeve (Figure 30). Turn the wheel over and remove

the opposite oil seal and bearing. Remove the

washer and spacer shimpack.

5. Wash the bearings in clean solvent and dry with

compressed air. Wipe the bearing races off with a

clean rag dipped in solvent.

6. Check the roller bearings and races (Figure 31)

for wear, pitting or excessive bluish tint. Replace

the bearings and races as a complete set on each side

of the wheel. Perform Step 7 to replace the bearing

races. If the bearings and races do not require re-

placement, go to Step 8. If original bearings are to

be reused, pack the bearings with grease and then

wrap in a clean lint-free cloth until assembly. Apply

a film of grease across the bearing race (Figure 31).

NOTE

A wheel bearing race remover and in-

staller tool (JIMS part No. 33461-80)

(Figure 32) is available.

7A. To remove the right and left side wheel bearing

outer races (Figure 31) using special tools, perform

the following:

a. Install the special tool into the hub against the

bearing race following the manufacturer’s in-

structions.

b. Tap the bearing race out of one side of the

hub.

c. Reposition the special tool and tap the other

bearing race out of other side of the hub.

d. Remove the special tool.

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386

CHAPTER NINE

7B. To remove the right and left side wheel bearing

outer races (Figure 31) without using special tools,

perform the following:

a. Insert a drift punch through the hub and drive

the bearing outer race out of the hub. Tap on

alternate sides of the race to drive it squarely

out of the hub. If the race binds in the hub

bore, level it by tapping it from its opposite

side.

b. Repeat substep a for the outer race on the

other side of the hub.

8. Clean the hub with solvent. Dry with com-

pressed air.

Installation

4. Pack each seal lip with grease and install it with a

1. Wipe the outside of the new race and the hub re-

bearing driver or socket with an outer diameter

ceptacle with oil and align it with its bore in the hub.

smaller than the oil seal.

5A. On cast wheels, assemble the front hub in the

NOTE

order shown in Figure 25 or Figure 27, while not-

When installing the race, stop and

ing the following:

check the work often, making sure the

a. Apply grease to both ends of the spacer

race is square with the hub bore. Do

sleeve.

not allow the race to bind during in-

stallation or the bore in the hub will

b. Install the spacer washer with its shoulder

be damaged.

(smaller diameter) facing toward its adjacent

bearing.

2A. To install the right and left side wheel bearing

outer races (Figure 31) using special tools, perform

CAUTION

the following:

If the spacer washer is installed with

its larger diameter side toward the

a. Install the special tool into the bearing outer

bearing, the spacer washer could

race and the hub following the manufac-

contact the bearing cage and damage

turer’s instructions.

it.

b. Tap the bearing race straight into one side of

the hub until it bottoms on the hub shoulder.

c. After installing the bearings, pack the area be-

c. Reposition the special tool and tap the other

tween the bearings and oil seals with grease.

bearing race into the other side of the hub.

d. Install the oil seals until they are flush with

d. Remove the special tool.

the hub or recessed 0.04 in. (1.0 mm) below

2B. To install the right and left side wheel bearing

the hub surface (Figure 10).

outer races (Figure 31) without using special tools,

e. Install the spacer so that its large chamfered

perform the following:

end faces toward the bearing on the valve

a. Select a driver with the outside diameter

stem hole side of the wheel.

slightly smaller than the bearing race’s out-

5B. On laced wheels, assemble the front hub in the

side diameter.

order shown in Figure 24 or Figure 26, while not-

b. Drive the bearing outer race squarely into the

ing the following:

hub bore until it bottoms on the hub shoulder.

a. Apply grease to both ends of the spacer

c. Repeat substep b for the outer race on the

sleeve.

other side of the hub.

b. Install the spacer washer with its shoulder

3. Pack the bearings with grease and install them in

(smaller diameter) facing toward its adjacent

their original position as noted during removal.

bearing.

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

387

The thickness of the spacer shim (Table 3) con-

CHECKING FRONT

trols end play between the spacer sleeve and spacer

WHEEL END PLAY

washer.

1. Support the motorcycle on a stand with the front

or rear wheel off the ground.

Front axle

2. On the rear wheel, remove the spring pin from

the rear axle nut.

3. Tighten the front or rear axle to the specification

in Table 2.

4. Mount a dial indicator securely on the brake disc

and center its stem against the end of the axle (Fig-

ure 33). Then zero the dial gauge. Grasp the tire and

move it (with the axle) in and out along the axle cen-

ter line and note the indicator reading. The total in-

Magnetic base

dicator reading is axle end play.

5. If there is not enough end play, install a thinner

spacer shim.

CAUTION

6. If the end play is excessive, install a thicker

If the spacer washer is installed with

spacer shim.

its larger diameter side toward the

7. To replace a spacer shim, disassemble the front

bearing, the spacer washer could

or rear hub as described in this chapter.

contact the bearing cage and damage

it.

FRONT AND REAR HUBS (2000-ON)

After installing the bearings, pack the area be-

tween the bearings and oil seals with grease.

Sealed ball bearings are installed on each side of

Install the oil seals until they are flush with

the hub. Do not remove the bearing assemblies un-

the hub or recessed 0.020 in. (0.51 mm) be-

less they require replacement.

low the hub surface (Figure 10).

Install the spacer so that its large chamfered

end faces toward the bearing on the valve

Preliminary Inspection

stem hole side of the wheel.

If removed, install the brake disc as described in

Inspect each wheel bearing prior to removing it

Chapter Twelve.

from the wheel hub.

7. After the wheel is installed and the axle nut tight-

CAUTION

ened, check bearing end play as described in this

Do not remove the wheel bearings for

chapter.

inspection purposes as they will be

damaged during the removal process.

Remove wheel bearings only if they

FRONT AND REAR WHEEL

are to be replaced.

BEARING END PLAY CHECK

(1999 MODELS)

1. Perform Steps 1-3 of Disassembly in the follow-

ing procedure.

Front and rear wheel bearing end play establishes

the amount of axial (lengthwise) movement be-

2. Turn each bearing by hand. The bearings must

tween the left and right bearings. Table 1 lists the

turn smoothly with no roughness.

correct end play specifications. Excessive end play

3. Inspect the play of the inner race of each wheel

can cause bearing side loading. If the end play is too

bearing. Check for excessive axial play and radial

tight, bearing seizure could result. Check end play

play (Figure 11). Replace the bearing if it has an ex-

each time the rear wheel is installed.

cess amount of free play.

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

389

REAR LACED WHEEL (2000-ON)

FRONT

1. Rear axle

13. Spoke nipple

2. Bolt

14. Bearing

3. Right side axle spacer

15. Driven sprocket

4. Brake disc

16. Washer

5. Bearing

17. Bolt

6. Spacer sleeve

18. Cotter pin

7. Wheel hub

19. Left side axle spacer

8. Wheel rim

20. Washer

9. Spoke

21. Axle nut

10. Valve stem cup

22. Cover (international

11. Nut

models only)

12. Balance weight

Disassembly

3. If necessary, remove the bolts securing the brake

disc and remove the disc.

4. Before proceeding further, inspect the wheel

This procedure applies to both the front and rear

bearings as described in this chapter. If they must be

wheel and hub assemblies. Where differences occur

replaced, proceed as follows.

between the different hubs they are identified. Refer

5A. If the special tools are not used, perform the fol-

to Figures 34-37.

lowing:

1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this

a. To remove the right- and left-hand bearings

chapter.

and spacer collar, insert a soft aluminum or

1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this

brass drift into one side of the hub.

chapter.

b. Push the spacer collar over to one side and

2. If still in place, remove the axle spacers from

place the drift on the inner race of the lower

each side of the hub.

bearing.

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390

CHAPTER NINE

REAR CAST WHEEL (2000-ON)

FRONT

1. Rear axle

2. Bolt

3. Right side axle spacer

4. Brake disc

5. Bearing

6. Spacer sleeve

7. Valve stem cap

8. Nut

9. Valve stem

10. Wheel

11. Driven sprocket

12. Washer

13. Cotter pin

14. Left side axle spacer

15. Washer

16. Axle nut

17. Cover (international

models only)

c. Tap the bearing out of the hub with a hammer,

working around the perimeter of the inner

race (Figure 38). Remove the bearing and

distance collar.

d. Repeat for the bearing on the other side.

Drift

NOTE

Bearing

The Kowa Seiki Wheel Bearing Re-

Hub

mover set can be ordered through a K

Spacer

& L Supply dealer.

Bearing

WARNING

Be sure to wear safety glasses while

using the wheel bearing remover set.

5B. To remove the bearings with the Kowa Seiki

Wheel Bearing Remover set, perform the follow-

ing:

a. Select the correct size remover head tool and

c. Tap on the end of the wedge bar with a ham-

insert it into the bearing.

mer and drive the bearing out of the hub. Re-

b. Turn the wheel over and insert the remover

move the bearing and the distance collar.

shaft into the backside of the adapter. Tap the

d. Repeat for the bearing on the other side.

wedge and force it into the slit in the adapter

(Figure

39). This will force the adapter

6. Clean the inside and the outside of the hub with

against the bearing inner race.

solvent. Dry with compressed air.

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

391

1. Blow any debris out of the hub prior to installing

the new bearings.

2. Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the

bearing seating areas of the hub. This will make

bearing installation easier.

Wedge bar

Remover

head

CAUTION

Install non-sealed bearings with the

single sealed side facing outward. Tap

the bearings squarely into place and

Bearing

tap on the outer race only. Do not tap

Hub

on the inner race or the bearing might

be damaged. Be sure that the bearings

are completely seated.

3. Select a driver with an outside diameter slightly

smaller than the bearing’s outside diameter.

4. Tap the right side bearing squarely into place and

tap on the outer race only. Tap the bearing into the

hub bore until it bottoms. Be sure that the bearing is

completely seated.

5. Turn the wheel over (right side up) on the work-

bench and install the spacer collar.

6. Use the same tool set-up and drive in the left side

bearing.

7. If the brake disc was removed, install it as de-

scribed in Chapter Twelve.

8A. Install the front wheel as described in this chap-

ter.

8B. Install the rear wheel as described in this chap-

ter.

DRIVEN SPROCKET ASSEMBLY

Inspection

Inspect the sprocket teeth (Figure 40). If the teeth

are visibly worn, replace the drive belt and both

sprockets.

Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chap-

Assembly

ter.

2. Remove the bolts, washers (Figure 41) and nuts

CAUTION

(if so equipped) securing the driven sprocket to the

The removal process will

generally

hub and remove the sprocket.

damage bearings. Never reinstall

3. Position the driven sprocket onto the rear hub.

them after they are removed. Always

install new bearings. Replace the

4. Apply a light coat of ThreeBond TB1360 or an

bearings in pairs.

equivalent to the bolts prior to installation.

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392

CHAPTER NINE

5. Install the bolts and washers and nuts (if so

equipped) and tighten to specifications in Table 2.

DRIVE SPROCKET

The drive sprocket is covered in Chapter Six un-

der Transmission Drive Sprocket.

DRIVE BELT

CAUTION

When handling a new or used drive

belt, never wrap the belt in a loop that

is smaller than 5 in. (130 mm) or bend

it sharply in any direction. This will

weaken or break the belt fibers and

cause premature belt failure.

Removal/Installation

1. Remove the compensating sprocket and clutch

as described in Chapter Five.

2. Remove the primary chain housing as described

in Chapter Five.

WARNING

Withdraw the pivot bolt from the frame and

Make sure the motorcycle is securely

transmission case.

supported before removing the rear

wheel.

Pivot the front of the rear swing arm down

sufficiently to slip the drive belt past the pivot

3. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off

area of the frame.

the ground.

If the drive belt is going to remain off for a pe-

4. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chap-

riod of time, move the swing arm up into posi-

ter.

tion and reinstall the pivot bolt and nut, or

bolt.

NOTE

If the existing drive belt is going to be

Remove the drive belt (C, Figure 42) from the

reinstalled, it must be installed so it

drive sprocket.

travels in the original direction. Be-

7. Installation is the reverse of these steps while

fore removing the belt, draw an arrow

noting the following:

on the top surface of the belt facing

a. Tighten the swing arm pivot bolt nut or bolt as

forward.

described in Chapter Eleven.

5. Refer to Rear Swing Arm in Chapter Eleven and

b. Adjust the drive belt tension as described in

perform the following:

Chapter Three.

a. Leave both shock absorbers in place on the

frame and rear swing arm.

b. If still in place, remove the screws securing

Inspection

the drive belt lower deflector (A, Figure 42)

and remove it.

Do not apply any type of lubricant to the drive

c. Remove the rear swing arm pivot bolt (B,

belt. Inspect the drive belt and teeth (Figure 43) for

Figure 42) nut (1999) or bolt (2000-on).

severe wear, damage or oil contamination.

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

393

DRIVE BELT INSPECTION

WHEEL RUNOUT

Pointer

Lateral runout

Radial runout

Stone

Refer to Figure 44 for various types of drive belt

wear or damage. Replace the drive belt if worn or

damaged.

WHEEL RUNOUT

1. Remove the front or rear wheel as described in

this chapter.

2. Install the wheel in a wheel truing stand and

check the wheel for excessive wobble or runout.

3. If the wheel is not running true, remove the tire

from the rim as described in this chapter. Then re-

mount the wheel into the truing stand and measure

axial and lateral runout (Figure 45) with a pointer

or dial indicator. Compare actual runout readings

with the service limit specification in Table 1. Note

the following:

a. Cast wheels: If the runout meets or exceeds

the service limit (Table 1), check the wheel

bearings as described under Front and Rear

Hub in this chapter. If the wheel bearings are

acceptable, the cast wheel must be replaced as

Internal tooth cracks

it cannot be serviced. Inspect the wheel for

Missing teeth

cracks, fractures, dents or bends. Replace a

Fuzzy edge core

damaged wheel.

Stone damage

External tooth cracks

WARNING

Chipping

Do not try to repair any damage to a

Hook wear

cast wheel as it will result in an unsafe

riding condition.

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394

CHAPTER NINE

b. Laced wheels: If the wheel bearings, spokes,

hub and rim assembly are not damaged, the

LATERAL ADJUSTMENT

runout can be corrected by truing the wheel.

Refer to Spoke Adjustment in this chapter. If

Center line

the rim is dented or damaged in any way, the

rim must be replaced and the wheel rebuilt.

Rim

4. While the wheel is off, perform the following:

a. Check the brake disc mounting bolts for tight-

ness as described in Chapter Twelve.

b. On the rear wheel, check the driven sprocket

Tighten

bolts for tightness as described in this chapter.

Loosen

Spoke A

Spoke B

RIM AND LACED WHEEL SERVICE

The laced wheel assembly consists of a rim,

spokes, nipples and hub containing the bearings,

spacer collar and, on 1999 models, oil seals.

Component Condition

To move rim

Riding subjects the wheels to a significant

amount of punishment. It is important that the

wheel is inspected regularly for lateral

Rim condition—Minor rim damage can be cor-

(side-to-side) and radial

(up-and-down) runout,

rected by truing the wheel, however, trying to cor-

even spoke tension and visible rim damage. When a

rect excessive runout caused by impact damage will

wheel has a noticeable wobble, it is out of true. This

cause hub and rim damage due to spoke

is usually cause by loose spokes, but it can be

overtightening. Inspect the rims for cracks, flat

caused by an impact-damaged rim.

spots or dents. Check the spoke holes for cracks or

Truing a wheel corrects the lateral and radial run-

enlargement. Replace rims with excessive damage.

out to bring the wheel back into specification.

The condition of the individual wheel compo-

nents will affect the ability to successfully true the

Wheel Truing Preliminaries

wheel. Note the following:

1. Spoke condition—Do not attempt to true a wheel

Before checking the runout and truing the wheel,

with bent or damaged spokes. Doing so places an

note the following:

excessive amount of tension on the spoke and rim.

1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condi-

The spoke may break and/or pull through the spoke

tion. Refer to Front and Rear Hubs in this chapter.

nipple hole in the rim. Inspect the spokes carefully

2. A small amount of wheel runout is acceptable,

and replace any that are damaged.

do not try to true the wheel to a perfect zero reading.

2. Nipple condition—When truing the wheels the

Doing so will result in excessive spoke tension and

nipples must turn freely on the spoke, however, it is

possible rim and hub damage. Table 1 lists the lat-

quite common for the spoke threads to become cor-

eral (side-to-side) and radial (up-and-down) runout

roded and make it difficult to turn the nipple. Spray

limit specifications.

a penetrating liquid onto the nipple and allow suffi-

cient time for it to penetrate before trying to force

3. The runout can be checked on the motorcycle by

the nipple loose. Work the spoke wrench in both di-

mounting a pointer against the fork or swing arm

rections and continue to apply penetrating liquid. If

and slowly rotating the wheel.

the spoke wrench rounds off the nipple, it will be

4. Perform major wheel truing with the tire re-

necessary to remove the tire from the rim and cut

moved and the wheel mounted in a truing stand

the spoke(s) out of the wheel.

(Figure 45). If a stand is not available, mount the

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

395

NOTE

RADIAL ADJUSTMENT

The number of spokes to loosen and

tighten in Steps 2 and 3 will depend on

how far the runout is out of adjust-

Tighten

ment. As a minimum, always loosen

(high point)

two or three spokes, then tighten the

opposite two or three spokes. If the

runout is excessive and affects a

greater area along the rim, a greater

number of spokes will require adjust-

ment.

Hub

2. If the lateral (side-to-side) runout is out of spec-

ification, adjust the wheel by using Figure 46 as an

Centerline

example. To move the rim to the left in Figure 46,

loosen spoke A and tighten spoke B. Always

loosen and tighten the spokes an equal number of

turns.

Loosen

3. If the radial (up and down) runout is out of speci-

(low point)

fication, the hub is not centered in the rim. Draw the

high point of the rim toward the centerline of the

wheel by tightening the spokes in the area of the

high point and loosening the spokes on the side op-

posite the high point (Figure 47). Tighten spokes in

equal amounts to prevent distortion.

4. After truing the wheel, seat each spoke in the

hub by tapping it with a flat nose punch and ham-

wheel on the motorcycle with spacers on each side

mer. Then recheck the spoke tension and wheel run-

of the wheel to prevent it from sliding on the axle.

out. Readjust if necessary.

5. Use a spoke nipple wrench of the correct size.

Using the wrong type of tool or one that is the incor-

5. Check the ends of the spokes where they are

rect size will round off the spoke nipples, making

threaded in the nipples. Grind off any ends that pro-

adjustment difficult. Quality spoke wrenches have

trude through the nipples.

openings that grip the nipple on four corners to pre-

vent nipple damage.

6. Refer to the spoke nipple torque specifications in

CAST WHEELS

Table 2 when using a torque wrench.

Cast wheels consist of a single assembly

equipped with bearings, a spacer sleeve and, on

Wheel Truing Procedure

1999 models, oil seals.

1. Position a pointer facing toward the rim (Figure

While these wheels are virtually maintenance

45). Then spin the wheel slowly and check the lat-

free, they must be checked for damage at the main-

eral and radial runout. If the rim is out of adjust-

tenance intervals listed in Chapter Three. Wheel

ment, continue with Step 2.

bearing service is described in this chapter.

To check these wheels, refer to Inspection under

NOTE

If there is a large number of loose

Wheel Runout in this chapter.

spokes, check the hub to make sure it

is centered in the rim. This must be

WARNING

done visually as there are no hub and

Do not try to repair any damage to a

rim centering specifications for these

cast wheel as it will result in an unsafe

models.

riding condition.

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396

CHAPTER NINE

WHEEL BALANCE

An unbalanced wheel is unsafe. Depending on

the degree of unbalance and the speed of the motor-

cycle, the rider may experience anything from a

mild vibration to a violent shimmy that may result

in loss of control.

On alloy wheels, weights are attached to the flat

surface on the rim (Figure 48). On laced wheels, the

weights are attached to the spoke nipples (Figure

49).

Before attempting to balance the wheel, make

sure the wheel bearings are in good condition and

properly lubricated. The wheel must rotate freely.

1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this

chapter.

1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this

chapter.

2. Mount the wheel on a fixture (Figure 50) so it

can rotate freely.

3. Spin the wheel and let it coast to a stop. Mark the

tire at the lowest point.

4. Spin the wheel several more times. If the wheel

keeps coming to rest at the same point, it is out of

balance.

When fitting weights on laced wheels for the fi-

5A. On alloy wheels, tape a test weight to the upper

nal time, crimp the weights onto the spoke with

(or light) side of the wheel (Figure 48).

slip-joint pliers.

5B. On laced wheels, attach a weight to the upper or

light side of the wheel on the spoke (Figure 49).

6. Experiment with different weights until the

TIRES

wheel comes to a stop at a different position each

time it is spun.

Tire Safety

7. On cast wheels, remove the test weight and in-

stall the correct size weight.

After installing new tires on the motorcycle,

a. Attach the weights to the flat surface on the

break them in correctly. Remember that a new tire

rim (Figure 48). Clean the rim of all road res-

has relatively poor adhesion to the road surface until

idue before installing the weights; otherwise,

it is broken in properly. Do not subject a new tire to

the weights may fall off.

any high speed riding for at least the first 60 miles

b. Add weights in 1/4 oz. (7g) increments. If 1

(100 km).

oz. (28 g) or more must be added to one loca-

Even after the tires are broken in properly, always

tion, apply half the amount to each side of the

warm them up prior to the first ride of the day, espe-

rim.

cially in cold weather. This will lessen the possibil-

c. To apply Harley-Davidson wheel weights, re-

ity of loss of control of the motorcycle. If using a

move the paper backing from the weight and

new tire brand other than those originally installed

apply 3 drops of Loctite 420 Superbonder to

by the Harley-Davidson factory, maintain the tire

the bottom of the weight. Position the weight

inflation pressure recommended by that tire manu-

on the rim, press it down, and hold in position

facturer and not those listed in Table 4, located at

for 10 seconds. To allow the adhesive to cure

the end of this chapter. Table 4 is for original equip-

properly, do not use the wheel for 8 hours.

ment tires only.

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

397

NOTE

To make tire removal easier, warming

the tire will make it softer and more

pliable. Place the wheel and tire as-

sembly in the sun. If possible, place

the wheel assembly in a completely

closed vehicle. At the same time, place

the new tire in the same location.

1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this

chapter.

1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this

chapter.

2. If not already marked by the tire manufacturer,

mark the valve stem location on the tire, so the tire

can be installed in the same location for easier bal-

ancing.

Bead breaker

3. Remove the valve core from the valve stem and

deflate the tire.

NOTE

The removal of tubeless tires from

their rims can be very difficult be-

Rim

cause of the exceptionally tight tire

bead-to-rim seal. Breaking the bead

seal may require the use of a special

tool (Figure 51). If unable to break

TUBELESS TIRE CHANGING

the seal loose, take the wheel to a mo-

torcycle dealership or tire repair shop

and have them break it loose on a tire

The cast alloy wheels can easily be damaged dur-

changing machine.

ing tire removal. Special care must be taken with

tire irons when changing a tire to avoid scratches

CAUTION

and gouges to the outer rim surface. Insert scraps of

The inner rim and tire bead area are

leather between the tire iron and the rim to protect

the sealing surfaces on the tubeless

the rim from damage. All original equipment laced

tire. Do not scratch the inside of the

and cast wheels are designed for use with tubeless

rim or damage the tire bead.

tires only.

When removing a tubeless tire, take care not to

4. Press the entire bead on both sides of the tire

damage the tire beads, inner liner of the tire or the

away from the rim and into the center of the rim.

wheel rim flange. Use tire levers, flat handles or tire

5. Lubricate both beads with soapy water.

irons with rounded heads

CAUTION

Use rim protectors (Figure 52) or in-

sert scraps of leather between the tire

Tire Removal

iron and the rim to protect the rim

from damage.

CAUTION

To avoid damage when removing the

NOTE

tire, support the wheel on two wooden

Use only quality tire irons without

blocks, so the brake discs or the

sharp edges. If necessary, file the ends

driven sprocket does not contact the

of the tire irons to remove rough

floor.

edges.

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398

CHAPTER NINE

6. Insert a tire iron under the top bead next to the

valve stem (Figure 53). Force the bead on the oppo-

site side of the tire into the center of the rim and pry

the bead over the rim with the tire iron.

7. Insert a second tire iron next to the first iron to

hold the bead over the rim. Then work around the

tire with the first tire iron, prying the bead over the

rim (Figure 54).

8. Stand the wheel upright. Insert a tire iron be-

tween the back bead and the side of the rim that the

top bead was pried over (Figure 55). Force the bead

on the opposite side from the tire iron into the center

Tire

of the rim. Pry the back bead off the rim working a

irons

round as with the first.

9. Inspect the valve stem seal. Because rubber dete-

riorates with age, it is advisable to replace the valve

stem when replacing the tire.

10. Remove the old valve stem and discard it. In-

spect the valve stem hole (Figure 56) in the rim. Re-

move any dirt or corrosion from the hole and wipe

Rim protectors

Valve stem

dry with a clean cloth. Install a new valve stem and

make sure it is properly seated in the rim.

11. Carefully inspect the tire and wheel rim for any

damage as described in the following.

Tire and Wheel Rim Inspection

1. Wipe off the inner surfaces of the wheel rim.

Clean off any rubber residue or any oxidation.

WARNING

Carefully consider whether a tire

should be replaced. If there is any doubt

about the quality of the existing tire, re-

place it with a new one. Do not take a

chance on a tire failure at any speed.

2. If any one of the following are observed; replace

it with a new one:

a. A puncture or split whose total length or di-

ameter exceeds 0.24 in. (6 mm).

b. A scratch or split on the side wall.

c. Any type of ply separation.

d. Tread separation or excessive abnormal wear

pattern.

e. Tread depth of less than 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) on

original equipment tires. Tread depth mini-

mum may vary on aftermarket tires.

f. Scratches on either sealing bead.

g. The cord is cut in any place.

h. Flat spots in the tread from skidding.

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WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

399

i. Any abnormality in the inner liner.

Tire Installation

1. Inspect the valve stem core rubber seal for hard-

ness or deterioration. Replace if necessary.

2. A new tire may have balancing rubbers inside.

These are not patches. Do not remove them.

3. Lubricate both beads of the tire with soapy water.

4. When installing the tire on the rim, make sure

the correct tire (either front or rear) is installed on

the correct wheel and also that the direction arrow

faces the direction of wheel rotation (Figure 57).

5. If remounting the old tire, align the mark made

in Step 2, Removal, with the valve stem (Figure 58).

If a new tire is being installed, align the colored spot

near the bead (indicating the lightest point of the

tire) with the valve stem.

6. Align the tire with the rim, then place the back-

side of the tire into the center of the rim. The lower

bead should go into the center of the rim and the up-

per bead inside. Work around the tire in both direc-

tions (Figure 59), using a tire iron for the last few

inches of bead (Figure 60).

Harley Davidson 1999-2005 Harley Dyna Models. Repair Manual - page 20