Harley Davidson 1999-2005 Harley Dyna Models. Repair Manual

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140

CHAPTER FOUR

Piston Inspection

134

1. If necessary, remove the piston rings as de-

scribed in this chapter.

2. Carefully clean the carbon from the piston

crown (Figure 135) with a soft scraper. Large car-

bon accumulations reduce piston cooling and result

in detonation and piston damage. Re-letter the pis-

ton as soon as it is cleaned to keep it properly identi-

fied.

CAUTION

Be very careful not to gouge or other-

wise damage the piston when

removing carbon. Never use a wire

135

brush to clean the piston ring grooves.

Do not attempt to remove carbon from

the sides of the piston above the top

ring or from the cylinder bore near the

top. Removal of carbon from these

two areas may cause increased oil

consumption.

CAUTION

The pistons have a special coating on

the skirt (Figure 136). Do not scrape

or use any type of abrasive on this

surface as it will be damaged.

3. After cleaning the piston, examine the crown.

136

The crown should show no signs of wear or dam-

age. If the crown appears pecked or spongy, check

the spark plug, valves and combustion chamber for

aluminum deposits. If these deposits are found, the

engine is overheating.

4. Examine each ring groove for burrs, dented

edges or other damage. Pay particular attention to

the top compression ring groove as it usually wears

more than the others. The oil rings and grooves gen-

erally wear less than compression rings and their

grooves. If there is evidence of oil ring groove wear

or if the oil ring assembly is tight and difficult to re-

move, the piston skirt may have collapsed due to ex-

137

cessive heat and is permanently deformed. Replace

the piston.

5. Check the oil control holes (Figure 137) in the

piston for carbon or oil sludge buildup. Clean the

holes with wire and blow out with compressed air.

6. Check the piston skirt (Figure 136) for cracks or

other damage. If a piston shows signs of partial sei-

zure (bits of aluminum build-up on the piston skirt),

the piston should be replaced to reduce the possibil-

ity of engine noise and further piston seizure.

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ENGINE

141

138

142

NOTE

139

If the piston skirt is worn or scuffed

unevenly from side-to-side, the con-

necting rod may be bent or twisted.

7. Check the snap ring groove (Figure 138) on

each side for wear, cracks or other damage. If the

grooves are questionable, check the circlip fit by in-

stalling a new circlip into each groove and then at-

tempt to move the circlip from side-to-side. If the

circlip has any side play, the groove is worn and the

piston must be replaced.

8. Measure piston-to-cylinder clearance as de-

scribed under Piston Clearance in this chapter.

9. If damage or wear indicates piston replacement,

140

select a new piston as described under Piston Clear-

ance in this chapter. If the piston, rings and cylinder

are not damaged and are dimensionally correct,

they can be reused.

Piston Pin Inspection and Clearance

1. Clean the piston pin in solvent and dry thor-

oughly.

2. Inspect the piston pin for chrome flaking or

cracks. Replace if necessary.

3. Oil the piston pin and install it in the connecting

rod (Figure 139). Slowly rotate the piston pin and

141

check for radial play.

4. Oil the piston pin and install it in the piston (Fig-

ure 140). Check the piston pin for excessive play.

5. To measure piston pin-to-piston clearance, per-

form the following:

a. Measure the piston pin outer diameter with a

micrometer (Figure 141).

b. Measure the inside diameter of the piston pin

bore (Figure 142) with a snap gauge. Mea-

sure the snap gauge with a micrometer.

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142

CHAPTER FOUR

c. Subtract the piston pin outer diameter from

the piston pin bore to obtain the clearance di-

143

mension. Check against the specification in

Table 2.

d. If out of specification, replace the piston

and/or the piston pin.

6. Replace the piston pin and/or piston or connect-

ing rod if necessary.

Piston Clearance

1. Make sure the piston skirt and cylinder bore is

clean and dry.

2. Measure the cylinder bore with a bore gauge

144

(Figure 121) as described under Cylinder Inspec-

tion in this chapter.

3. Measure the piston diameter with a micrometer

as follows:

a. Hold the micrometer at the bottom of the pis-

ton skirt at a right angle to the piston pin bore

(Figure 143). Adjust the micrometer so the

spindle and anvil just touch the skirt.

b. Start below the bottom ring and slowly move

the micrometer toward the bottom of the skirt.

c. The micrometer will be loose, then tight at

Measure the piston pin diameter (Figure

141)

about 0.5 in. (12.7 mm) from the bottom and

where it contacts the bushing.

then loose again.

d. Measure the piston skirt at the tightest point.

3. Measure the piston pin bushing diameter using a

snap gauge (Figure 145).

4. Subtract the piston diameter from the largest

bore diameter; the difference is piston-to-cylinder

4. Subtract the piston pin outer diameter from

clearance. If the clearance exceeds the specification

bushing inner diameter to determine piston pin

in Table 2, the pistons should be replaced and the

clearance. Replace the pin and bushing if they are

cylinders bored oversize and then honed. Purchase

worn to the service limit in Table 2.

the new pistons first. Measure their diameter and

add the specified clearance to determine the proper

Piston Pin Bushing Replacement

cylinder bore diameter.

Tools

Piston Pin Bushing in Connecting Rod

The following special tools are required to re-

Inspection and Replacement

place and ream the piston pin bushings. The part

numbers are for Harley-Davidson or JIMS special

The piston pin bushings are reamed to provide

tools. The clamp tool is required only if the bushing

correct piston pin-to-bushing clearance. This clear-

is being replaced with the crankcase assembled. If

ance is critical in preventing pin knock and top end

these tools are not available, have a shop with the

damage.

proper equipment perform the procedure.

1. Inspect the piston pin bushings (Figure 144) for

1. Connecting rod clamp tool (HD-95952-33B).

excessive wear or damage (pit marks, scoring or

2. Connecting rod bushing tool (JIMS 1051).

wear grooves). Then check to make sure the bush-

ing is not loose. The bushing must be a tight fit in

3. Bushing reamer tool (JIMS 1726-3).

the connecting rods.

4. Connecting rod bushing hone (HD-422569).

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ENGINE

143

ders onto the studs. Tighten securely to hold

145

the clamp in place.

c. Alternately tighten the thumbscrews onto the

side of the connecting rod. Do not turn only

one thumbscrew, as this will move the con-

necting rod off center and when tightening the

other thumbscrew will cause the connecting

rod to flex or bend.

3. Cover the crankcase opening to keep bushing

particles from falling into the engine.

NOTE

When installing the new bushing,

align the oil slot in the bushing with

146

the oil hole in the connecting rod.

4. Replace the bushing using the connecting rod

bushing tool (Figure 146), following the tool man-

ufacturer’s instructions. The new bushing must be

flush with both sides of the connecting rod.

5. Ream the new bushing with the bushing reamer

tool (Figure 147), following the manufacturer’s in-

structions.

6. Hone the new bushing to obtain the piston pin

clearance specified in Table 2. Use honing oil, not

engine oil, when honing the bushing to size.

7. Install the piston pin through the bushing. The

147

pin must move through the bushing smoothly. Con-

firm pin clearance using a micrometer and snap

gauge.

8. Carefully remove all metal debris from the

crankcase.

Piston Ring Inspection

1. Clean the piston ring grooves as described under

Piston Inspection.

2. Inspect the ring grooves for burrs, nicks, or bro-

Procedure

ken or cracked lands. Replace the piston if neces-

sary.

1. Remove two of the plastic hoses protecting the

3. Insert one piston ring into the top of its cylinder

cylinder studs.

and tap it down approximately 1/2 in. (12.7 mm),

2. Install the connecting rod clamping tool as fol-

using the piston to square it in the bore. Measure the

lows:

ring end gap (Figure 148) with a feeler gauge and

a. Install the clamp portion of the connecting

compare with the specification in Table 2. Replace

rod clamping tool over the connecting rod so

the piston rings as a set if any one ring end gap mea-

the slots engage the cylinder head studs. Do

surement is excessive. Repeat for each ring.

not scratch or bend the studs.

4. Roll each compression ring around its piston

b. Position the threaded cylinders with the

groove as shown in Figure 149. The ring must

knurled end facing up and install the cylin-

move smoothly with no binding. If a ring binds in its

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144

CHAPTER FOUR

groove, check the groove for damage. Replace the

piston if necessary.

148

Piston Ring Installation

Each piston is equipped with three piston rings:

two compression rings and one oil ring assembly.

The top compression ring is not marked. The lower

compression is marked with a dot (Figure 150).

Piston ring

Harley-Davidson recommends that new piston

rings be installed every time the piston is removed.

Piston rings take a set after the engine has been run

Feeler gauge

and must not be reused. Always lightly hone the

cylinder before installing new piston rings.

1. Wash the piston in hot, soapy water. Then rinse

with cold water and dry with compressed air. Make

sure the oil control holes in the lower ring groove

are clear.

Install the oil ring assembly as follows:

a. The oil ring consists of three rings: a ribbed

spacer ring (A, Figure 151) and two steel

rings (B).

b. Install the spacer ring into the lower ring

groove. Butt the spacer ring ends together. Do

not overlap the ring ends.

149

c. Insert one end of the first steel ring into the

lower groove so that it is below the spacer

ring. Then spiral the other end over the piston

crown and into the lower groove. To protect

the ring end from scratching the side of the

piston, place a piece of shim stock or a thin,

flat feeler gauge between the ring and piston.

d. Repeat substep c to install the other steel ring

above the spacer ring.

NOTE

When installing the compression

rings, use a ring expander as shown in

Figure 133. Do not expand the rings

any more than necessary to install

them.

150

Install the lower compression ring as follows:

a. A dot mark is located on one side of the lower

compression ring (Figure 150).

b. Install the lower compression ring with the

dot mark facing up (Figure 152).

Install the top compression ring as follows:

a. The top compression ring is not marked.

b. Install the new top compression ring with ei-

ther side facing up.

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ENGINE

145

5. Check the ring side clearance with a feeler gauge

151

as shown in Figure 153. Check the side clearance in

several spots around the piston. If the clearance is

larger than the service limit in Table 2, replace the

piston.

6. Stagger the ring gaps around the piston as shown

in Figure 127.

Piston Installation

1. Cover the crankcase openings to avoid dropping

a retaining ring into the engine.

2. Install a new piston pin retaining ring into one

152

groove in the piston. Make sure the ring seats in the

groove completely.

3. Coat the connecting rod bushing and piston pin

with assembly oil.

4. Slide the piston pin into the piston until its end is

flush with the piston pin boss (Figure 154).

NOTE

The piston markings described in Step

5 are for factory Harley-Davidson

pistons. If using aftermarket pistons,

follow their manufacturer’s directions

for piston alignment and installation.

153

5. Place the piston over the connecting rod with its

arrow mark (C, Figure 130) facing toward the front

of the engine. Install used pistons on their original

connecting rods; refer to the marks made on the pis-

ton during removal.

6. Push the piston pin (B, Figure 130) through the

connecting rod bushing and into the other side of

the piston. Push the piston pin in until it bottoms on

the retaining ring.

7. Install the other new piston pin retaining ring

(Figure 155) into the piston groove. Make sure it

seats properly in the piston groove (Figure 156).

154

8. Repeat for the other piston.

9. Install the cylinders as described in this chapter.

PUSHRODS

Removal/Installation

Remove and install the pushrods as described un-

der Rocker Arm Cover and Cylinder Head Removal

in this chapter.

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146

CHAPTER FOUR

155

156

157

PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

1. O-ring

2. Upper cover

3. Spring cap retainer

4. Spring cap

5. Spring

6. Washer

7. Lower cover

8. Allen bolt

9. Lifter cover

10. Antirotation pin

11. Gasket

12. Hydraulic lifter

13. Pushrod

Inspection

a. Check the spring for sagging or cracking.

b. Check the spacer for deformation or damage.

Refer to Figure 157.

c. Check the pushrod covers for cracking or

1. Disassemble the pushrod cover as follows:

damage.

a. Remove the lower pushrod cover (Figure

3. Check the pushrod ends (Figure 164) for wear.

158).

4. Roll the pushrods on a surface plate or plate

b. Remove the O-ring (Figure 159).

glass, and check for bending.

c. Remove the spacer (Figure 160).

5. Replace all worn or damaged parts. Install new

d. Remove the spring (Figure 161).

O-rings.

e. Remove the spring cap (Figure 162).

6. Reverse Step 1 to assemble the pushrod cover

2. Check the pushrod cover assembly (Figure 163)

assembly. Push the lower pushrod cover (A, Figure

as follows:

165) into the spring cap (B) to seat the O-ring.

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148

CHAPTER FOUR

lifters are working properly when they stop clicking

after the engine is run for a few minutes.

165

Removal

During removal, store lifters in proper sequence

so they will be installed in their original position in

the crankcase.

1. Remove the pushrods as described under Rocker

Arm Cover and Cylinder Head Removal in this

chapter.

NOTE

In order to clear the cylinder’s lower

166

cooling fins, the two inner lifter cover

Allen bolts must be loosened with a

short 90° Allen wrench as shown in A,

Figure 166.

2. Remove the lifter cover mounting bolts and re-

move the cover (B, Figure 166).

3. Remove the lifter cover gasket from the crank-

case.

NOTE

Do not intermix the lifters when re-

moving them in Step 4. Mark them so

they will be installed in their original

167

position.

4. Remove the antirotation pin (A, Figure 167) and

both hydraulic lifters (B).

5. Cover the crankcase opening (Figure 168) to

prevent the entry of small parts.

6. If the lifters are not going to be inspected as de-

scribed in the following section, store them upright

in a container filled with clean engine oil until in-

stallation.

7. Remove the lifter cover gasket.

Inspection

168

NOTE

Place the lifters on a clean, lint-free

cloth during inspection. Place in-

spected lifters in a container of clean

engine oil.

1. Check the pushrod socket (Figure 169) in the

top of the lifter for wear or damage.

2. Check the lifter roller (Figure 170) for pitting,

scoring, galling or excessive wear. If the rollers are

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ENGINE

149

b. Measure the lifter outside diameter (Figure

169

171) and record the measurement.

c. Subtract substep b from substep a to deter-

mine the lifter-to-crankcase bore clearance,

then compare the measurement to the service

limit in Table 2. Replace the lifter or crank-

case if the clearance is worn to the limit.

5. If a lifter does not show visual damage, it may be

contaminated with dirt or have internal damage. If

so, replace it. The lifters are not serviceable and

must be replaced as a unit.

6. After inspecting the lifters, store them in a con-

tainer filled with clean engine oil until installation.

7. If most of the oil has drained out of the lifter, re-

170

fill it with a pump-type oil can through the oil hole

in the side of the lifter.

8. Clean all old gasket residue from the mating sur-

faces of the crankcase and the lifter cover.

Installation

1. Remove two of the lifters from the oil-filled con-

tainer and keep them vertical.

2. Install the hydraulic lifters (B, Figure 167) into

the crankcase receptacles with the flat surfaces fac-

ing toward the front and rear of the engine.

171

CAUTION

Failure to install the anti-rotation pin

will allow the lifter to rotate off the

camshaft lobe, resulting in severe in-

ternal engine damage.

3. Install the antirotation pin

(A, Figure 167).

Make sure it is seated correctly within the crankcase

receptacle and against the flats on both hydraulic

lifters (C, Figure 167).

4. Rotate the engine until both lifters for the cylin-

worn excessively, check the mating cam lobes for

der head being serviced seat onto the cam’s lowest

the same wear condition.

position (base circle). The lifter’s top surface will

3. Clean the lifter rollers with contact cleaner.

be flush with the top surface of the crankcase sur-

Then measure roller fit and end clearance and

face as shown in Figure 172.

compare to the specification in Table 2. Replace

5. Install a new lifter cover gasket (Figure 173)

the lifter assembly if either part is worn to the ser-

onto the crankcase.

vice limit.

NOTE

In order to clear the cylinder’s lower

4. Determine the lifter-to-guide clearance as fol-

cooling fins, the two inner lifter cover

lows:

Allen bolts must be tightened with a

a. Measure the lifter bore receptacle in the

short

90-degree Allen wrench as

crankcase and record the measurement.

shown in A, Figure 166.

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150

CHAPTER FOUR

172

173

174

OIL PUMP

1. Feed pump (narrow)-inner

and outer rotors

2. Separator plate

3. Scavenger pump

(wide)-inner and outer

rotors

4. O-ring

5. Housing

6. O-ring

1999 model

7. Wave washer

2000 and later models

6. Install the lifter cover and the mounting bolts (B,

OIL PUMP

Figure 166). Tighten the bolts to the specification

in Table 4.

The oil pump is mounted onto the right side of the

7. Repeat Steps 1-6 to install the other set of lifters.

crankcase under the camshaft support plate. The oil

8. Install the pushrods as described under Rocker

pump consists of two sections: a feed pump (narrow

Arm Cover and Cylinder Head Installation in this

rotors) which supplies oil under pressure to the en-

chapter.

gine components, and a scavenger pump (wide ro-

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ENGINE

151

175

179

tors) which returns the oil from the engine to the oil

176

pan in the base of the transmission case. The oil

travels from the engine to the oil pan through two

interconnecting hoses.

Disassembly/Removal

The oil pump can be removed with the engine in

the frame. This procedure is shown with the engine

removed and partially disassembled to better illus-

trate the steps. Refer to Figure 174.

NOTE

The oil pump on

1999 models is

177

slightly different from the

2000-on

models. Both assemblies are covered

in one procedure. Where differences

occur between the different models,

they are identified. Parts are not inter-

changeable between the two types.

1. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

2. Remove the camshaft support plate assembly as

described under Camshaft Support Plate Removal

in this chapter.

3. Remove the feed pump inner (Figure 175) and

outer rotors (Figure 176).

4A. On 1999 models, remove the separator plate

178

(Figure 177).

4B. On 2000-on models, remove the outer separator

plate (Figure 178), wave washer (Figure 179) and

the inner separator plate (Figure 180).

5. Remove the scavenger pump outer and inner ro-

tors (Figure 181).

6. Carefully pull the oil pump body (Figure 182)

straight off the crankshaft.

7. Remove the O-ring (Figure 183) from the back-

side of the oil pump.

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152

CHAPTER FOUR

180

181

Inspection

182

1. Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent and place

on a clean, lint-free cloth. Refer to Figure 184 for

1999 models or Figure 185 for 2000-on models.

2. Inspect both sets of inner and outer rotors (Fig-

ure 186) for scratches and abrasion.

3. Inspect the oil pump housing (Figure 187) for

scratches caused by the rotors.

4. Inspect the interior passageways of the oil pump

housing. Make sure all oil sludge and debris is re-

moved. Blow low-pressure compressed air through

all oil pump housing passages.

5. Install the inner rotor into the outer rotor.

183

Check the clearance between the inner tip and

outer rotor (Figure 188) with a flat feeler gauge.

Replace the rotors as a set if the clearance exceeds

the dimension in Table 2. Repeat for the other set

of rotors.

6. Measure the thickness of the inner (Figure 189)

and outer (Figure 190) rotors. Both rotors must be

the same thickness, if not replace them as a com-

plete set. Repeat for the other set of rotors.

Reassembly/Installation

NOTE

184

Position both inner and outer rotor

sets with the punch marks (Figure

191) facing out.

1. Install a new O-ring (Figure 183) onto the back-

side of the oil pump. Apply clean engine oil to the

O-ring.

2. Carefully push the oil pump body (Figure 182)

straight onto the crankshaft. Align the O-ring and

fitting onto the crankcase fitting (Figure 192). Push

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154

CHAPTER FOUR

it on until it bottoms, making sure the O-ring seats

correctly in the crankcase fitting.

193

3. Install the scavenge outer rotor (Figure 193) into

the oil pump housing.

4. Align the flat on the scavenge inner rotor with

the flat on the crankshaft and install the inner rotor

(Figure 194). Push it on until it is meshed with the

outer rotor.

5A. On 1999 models, align the tangs on the separa-

tor plate with the oil pump grooves and install the

separator plate (Figure 177).

5B. On 2000-on models, perform the following:

a. Align the tangs on the inner separator plate

with the oil pump grooves and install the in-

ner separator plate (Figure 180).

194

b. Install the wave washer (Figure 179).

c. Align the tangs on the outer separator plate

with the oil pump grooves and install the

outer separator plate (Figure 178).

6. Install the feed pump outer rotor (Figure 176)

into the oil pump housing.

7. Align the flat on the feed pump inner rotor with

the flat on the crankshaft and install the inner rotor

(Figure 175). Push it on until it is meshed with the

outer rotor.

8. Install the camshaft support plate assembly as

described under Camshaft Support Plate Installa-

195

tion in this chapter.

9. Refill the engine oil as described in Chapter

Three.

OIL FILTER MOUNT

The oil filter mount is located on the front right

side of the engine and can be removed with the en-

gine in the frame.

Removal

Inspection

1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface.

2. Remove the exhaust system as described in

1. Clean the oil filter mount in solvent and dry with

Chapter Seven.

compressed air.

3. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter (A,

2. Inspect the oil filter mount for damage that could

Figure 195) as described in Chapter Three.

lead to an oil leak.

4. Place several shop cloths under the oil filter

3. Make sure the oil passageways (Figure 196) are

mount as some residual oil will drain out in the next

clear.

step.

5. Straighten the lockplate tabs and remove the

4. Check the oil filter mounting surface (A, Figure

three bolts, oil filter and oil filter mount (B, Figure

197) and oil filter mounting threads (B, Figure 197)

195) from the crankcase.

for wear or damage.

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ENGINE

155

Installation

196

1. Thoroughly clean the crankcase mating surface.

2. Install new O-ring seals (Figure 198) onto the

mount.

3. Apply ThreeBond TB1342, or an equivalent, to

the three bolt threads prior to installing them onto

the new lockplate.

4. Install the oil filter mount onto the crankcase and

install the lockplate and three bolts and washers

(Figure 199).

5. Tighten the bolts to the specification in Table 4.

6. Bend down the locking tab against the top and

bottom bolt heads.

197

7. Refill the engine with oil and install a new oil fil-

ter (A, Figure 195).

8. Disconnect the electrical connector from the oil

pressure switch (C, Figure 195). Thoroughly clean

the electrical connector and the switch terminal

with an aerosol parts cleaner to remove any oil that

may have come in contact with these parts.

9. Install the exhaust system as described in Chapter

Seven.

10. Start the engine and check for leaks.

CAMSHAFT SUPPORT PLATE

198

A camshaft and crankshaft sprocket lock (JIMS

part No. 1285) and a camshaft chain tensioner tool

(JIMS Part No. 1283) are required to remove and in-

stall the camshaft support plate.

NOTE

During the

1999

model year, the

method of securing the camshaft

sprocket to the camshaft for the rear

cylinder was changed. Early

1999

models use a Woodruff key as shown

in Figure 200. This was changed to a

199

splined attachment on later 1999-on

models as shown in Figure 201.

Removal

NOTE

This procedure can be accomplished

with the engine mounted in the frame.

This procedure is shown with the en-

gine removed and partially disassem-

bled to better illustrate the steps.

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156

CHAPTER FOUR

200

CAMSHAFTS AND COVER (EARLY 1999 MODELS)

Screw

Cover

Camshaft cover

Gasket

Camshaft primary drive

chain

Bolt and washer

Rear cylinder camshaft

drive sprocket

Spacer

Oil pump relief spring

10.

Oil pump relief valve

11.

Primary chain tensioner

12.

Snap ring

13.

Crankshaft sprocket

14.

Bushing

15.

Roll pin

16.

Chain guide

17.

Plug

18.

O-ring

19.

Camshaft support plate

20.

Bearing

21.

Bearing retainer plate

22.

Camshaft secondary

drive chain

23.

Woodruff key

24.

Camshaft-rear cylinder

25.

Oil pump feed rotors

26.

Separator plate

27.

Oil pump scavenger

rotors

28.

Oil pump housing

29.

Camshaft-front cylinder

30.

Crankcase half-right

side

31.

Secondary chain

tensioner

1. Remove the exhaust system as described in

wire. Do not hang the cover by the

Chapter Seven.

wiring.

2. Remove the pushrods, lifters and lifter covers as

3. Using a crisscross pattern, loosen then remove

described in this chapter.

the bolts securing the camshaft cover (Figure 203)

and remove the cover and gasket.

CAUTION

4. Remove the bolt securing the crankshaft posi-

On 1999-2000 models, the cam posi-

tion sensor (Figure 204) and remove the sensor

tion sensor wiring (Figure 202) is

from the crankcase.

routed through the camshaft cover.

Move the cover out of the way and se-

5. To ensure that the camshaft primary drive chain

cure it to the frame with a piece of

is reinstalled in the same direction of travel, mark

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ENGINE

157

201

CAMSHAFTS AND COVER (LATER 1999-ON MODELS)

Screw

Cover

Camshaft cover

Gasket

Camshaft primary drive

chain

Bolt and washer

Rear cylinder camshaft

drive sprocket

Spacer

Oil pump relief spring

10.

Oil pump relief valve

11.

Primary chain tensioner

12.

Snap ring

13.

Crankshaft sprocket

14.

Bushing

15.

Roll pin

16.

Chain guide

17.

Plug

18.

O-ring

19.

Camshaft support plate

20.

Secondary chain

tensioner

21.

Bearing

22.

Bearing retainer plate

23.

Camshaft secondary

drive chain

24.

Oil pump feed rotors

25.

Separator plate

26.

Wave washer

27.

Oil pump scavenger

rotors

28.

O-ring

29.

Camshaft-rear cylinder

30.

Oil pump housing

31.

Camshaft-front cylinder

32.

Crankcase half-right

side

202

203

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158

CHAPTER FOUR

204

205

one of the link plates with a permanent marking pen

or a scribe.

206

6. Relieve the tension on the camshaft primary

drive chain as follows:

a. Install the camshaft chain tensioner tool (A,

Figure 205) onto the camshaft primary chain

tensioner.

b. Using a wrench, rotate the tool counterclock-

wise and insert the hold pin (B, Figure 205)

through the hole in the tensioner and into the

hole in the support plate. Push the hold pin all

the way in until it bottoms.

c. Remove the wrench and tensioner tool from

the tensioner.

207

7. Install and mesh the camshaft and crankshaft

sprocket lock (A, Figure 206) between the cam-

shaft and crankshaft sprockets.

8. Loosen the bolt securing the crankshaft sprocket

(B, Figure 206).

NOTE

Do not use a long pry bar to loosen

the camshaft bolt as this may damage

the drive chain. First, attempt to

loosen the bolt with an impact driver

or air impact wrench. If this fails, ap-

ply heat with a propane torch to the

bolt head to loosen the thread locking

208

compound. Heat the bolt head evenly

in a circular motion. Avoid the use of

excessive heat as this may damage the

drive chain tensioner assembly. If the

bolt cannot be loosened using these

methods, have a H-D dealership per-

form the procedure.

9. Loosen the bolt securing the rear camshaft

sprocket (C, Figure 206).

10. Remove the special tool installed in Step 7.

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ENGINE

159

209

213

11. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt (A, Figure

210

207) and the crankshaft sprocket bolt and washer

(B, Figure 207).

NOTE

If it is difficult to loosen either

sprocket from its respective shaft, use

a small pry bar and gently loosen the

sprocket(s) from the shaft.

12. Remove the rear camshaft drive sprocket (A,

Figure 208), the crankshaft sprocket (B) and the

primary camshaft drive chain (C) as an assembly.

Pull the assembly straight off the shafts.

13. On models so equipped, remove the Woodruff

211

key from the rear camshaft.

14. Remove the sprocket spacer (Figure 209) from

the rear camshaft.

15. Squeeze the tabs and remove the camshaft

chain guide (Figure 210).

16. Loosen the camshaft support plate Allen bolts

in the following sequence:

a. Using a crisscross pattern, loosen and re-

move the Allen bolts (A, Figure 211) secur-

ing the support plate to the oil pump

assembly.

b. Using a crisscross pattern, loosen and re-

move the remaining six Allen bolts (B, Fig-

212

ure 211) securing the support plate to the

crankcase.

17. Withdraw the camshaft support plate assembly

from the crankcase. If necessary, carefully pry the

plate loose from the crankcase in the areas where

the locating dowels are located (Figure 212).

18. Remove the O-ring (A, Figure 213) from the

oil pump assembly and the lower O-ring (B).

19. On 2000-on models, remove the upper O-ring

(C, Figure 213).

Harley Davidson 1999-2005 Harley Dyna Models. Repair Manual - page 8