Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual

TROUBLESHOOTING

CV CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING

(1988-2003 MODELS)

Check:

* Fuel level too low
* Clogged fuel passages
* Clogged jets
* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on

1990-1991 models

* Plugged or damaged continuous

vent system on 1992-2003 models

* Incorrect fuel tank cap installed

(non-vent type)

* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged
* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle
* Throttle cable misadjusted
* Air leak at carburetor mounting
* Damaged vacuum piston

Poor acceleration

Poor idling

Check:

* Incorrect idle speed
* Plugged pilot jet system
* Loose pilot jet
* Air leak at carburetor mounting
* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged

Check:

* Incorrect fuel level
* Damaged float assembly
* Worn float needle valve or dirty seat
* Incorrect float alignment
* Damaged float bowl O-ring or loose float

bowl mounting screws

* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on 1990-1991

models

* Plugged or damaged continuous vent

system on 1992-2003 models

* Incorrect fuel tank cap installed

(non-vent type)

Fuel overflows

Hard starting

Check:

* Fuel overflow from float assembly
* Enrichener system inoperative
* Plugged pilot jet and/or passage
* Fuel overflow

(continued)

Poor power at low engine speeds

Check:

* Incorrect idle speed adjustment
* Contaminated air filter element
* Damaged vacuum piston
* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle
* Clogged pilot jet system
* Plugged float bowl vent or overflow
* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged
* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on

1990-1991 models

* Plugged or damaged continuous

vent system on 1992-2003 models

* Clogged fuel supply
* Air leak at carburetor mounting

acceleration. This causes the diaphragm to force fuel from
the pump chamber, through a check valve and into the carbu-
retor venturi. The diaphragm spring returns the diaphragm to
the uncompressed position, which allows the chamber to re-
fill with fuel.

If the engine hesitates during sudden acceleration, check

the operation of the accelerator pump system. Carburetor
service is covered in Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.

Vacuum-operated fuel shutoff valve testing
(1995-2003 models

)

A vacuum-operated fuel shutoff valve is used on

1995-2003 models. A vacuum hose is connected between
the fuel shutoff valve diaphragm and the carburetor. When
the engine is running, vacuum is applied to the fuel shutoff
valve through this hose. For fuel to flow through the fuel

CHAPTER TWO

(continued)

Check:

* Broken spring
* Diaphragm torn or damaged
* Vacuum piston binds in bore

Vacuum piston doesn’t close

Vacuum piston doesn’t rise in bore
correctly

Check:

* Vacuum piston binds in bore
* Diaphragm torn or damaged
* Vacuum piston spring binding
* Enrichener valve open or leaking
* Diaphragm cap loose or damaged
* Piston vent clogged
* Diaphragm incorrectly installed

(pinched at lip)

Check:

* Incorrect enrichment use
* Damaged vacuum piston
* Contaminated air filter element
* Loose jets
* Fuel level too high
* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle
* Plugged float bowl vent
* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged
* Incorrect carburetor adjustment

Poor fuel economy

Check:

* Incorrect fuel level
* Loose or plugged main jet
* Contaminated air filter element
* Damaged vacuum piston
* Worn or damaged needle jet or needle
* Plugged float bowl vent or overflow
* Enrichener valve nut loose or damaged
* Plugged fuel tank vent cap on

1990-1991 models

* Plugged or damaged continuous

vent system on 1992-2003 models

* Clogged fuel supply
* Air leak at carburetor mounting

Poor power at high engine speeds

valve, a vacuum must be present with the fuel shutoff valve
handle in the on or reserve position. The following steps
troubleshoot the fuel shutoff valve by applying a vacuum
from a separate source. A hand-operated vacuum pump
(Figure 82, typical), gas can, drain hose that is long enough
to reach from the fuel valve to the gas can, and hose clamp
are required for this test.

1. Refer to

Safety

in Chapter One.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
Chapter Twelve.

3. Visually check there is fuel in the tank.

4. Turn the fuel shutoff valve (A, Figure 79) to the off po-
sition and disconnect the fuel hose (B) from the fuel shutoff
valve. Plug the open end of the hose.

TROUBLESHOOTING

FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM

(1986-1987 MODELS)

Inlet valve

Fron fuel
tank

Overflow line

Float chamber

Float

FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM

(1988-2003 MODELS)

Float

Overflow
line

Inlet
valve

Fuel
inlet
(from side)

Float
bowl
vent

ACCELERATOR PUMP

SYSTEM (1986-1987 MODELS)

Venturi

Pump
nozzle

Throttle shaft

Pump lever

Spring

Pump rod

Check valve

Fuel

Spring

Diaphragm

5. Connect the drain hose to the fuel shutoff valve and se-
cure it with a hose clamp. Insert the end of the drain hose
into a gas can.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel shutoff valve.
7. Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump (Figure 82,
typical) to the fuel shutoff valve vacuum hose nozzle.
8. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever to the on position.

CAUTION

In Step 8, do not apply more than specified
vacuum or the fuel shutoff valve diaphragm
will be damaged.

9. Apply 25 in. (635 mm) Hg of vacuum to the valve. Fuel
should flow through the fuel shutoff valve when the vac-
uum is applied.
10. With the vacuum still applied, turn the fuel shutoff
valve lever to the reserve position. Fuel should continue to
flow through the valve.
11. Release the vacuum and make sure the fuel flow stops.
12. Repeat Steps 9-11 five times. Fuel should flow with
vacuum applied and stop flowing when the vacuum is re-
leased.
13. Turn the fuel shutoff valve off. Disconnect the vacuum
pump and drain hoses.
14. Reconnect the fuel hose (B, Figure 79) to the fuel shut-
off valve (A).
15. If the fuel valve failed this test, replace the fuel shutoff
valve as described in Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.

ENGINE NOISES

1. A knocking or pinging during acceleration can be
caused by using a lower octane fuel than recommended or a
poor grade of fuel. Incorrect carburetor jetting and an incor-
rect spark plug heat range (too hot) can cause pinging. Re-
fer to

Spark Plugs

in Chapter Three. Also check for

excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber or a
defective ignition module.
2. A slapping or rattling noise at low speed or during accel-
eration can be caused by excessive piston-to-cylinder wall
clearance. Also check for a bent connecting rod(s) or worn
piston pin and/or piston pin hole in the piston(s).
3. A knocking or rapping during deceleration is usually
caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.
4. A persistent knocking and vibration or other noises are
usually caused by worn main bearings. If the main bearings
are in good condition, check for the following:

a. Loose engine mounts.
b. Cracked frame.
c. Leaking cylinder head gasket(s).
d. Exhaust pipe leaks at cylinder head(s).
e. Stuck piston ring(s).
f. Broken piston ring(s).
g. Partial engine seizure.
h. Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance.
i. Excessive connecting rod side clearance.

j. Excessive crankshaft runout.

5. Rapid on-off squeal indicates a compression leak
around the cylinder head gasket or spark plug.

6. For valve train noise, check for the following:

a. Bent pushrod(s).

b. Defective lifter(s).

c. Valve sticking in guide.

d. Worn cam gears and/or cam.

e. Damaged rocker arm or shaft. Rocker arm may be

binding on shaft.

CHAPTER TWO

ACCELERATOR PUMP

SYSTEM (1988-2003 MODELS)

Venturi

Pump
nozzle

Pump
lever

Spring

Throttle
shaft

Throttle rod

Check
valve

Diaphragm

Spring

Pump
rod

ENGINE SMOKE

The color of engine smoke can help diagnosis engine

problems or operating conditions.

Black Smoke

Black smoke is an indication of a rich air/fuel mixture

where an excessive amount of fuel is being burned in the
combustion chamber.

Blue Smoke

Blue smoke indicates that the engine is burning oil in the

combustion chamber as it leaks past worn valve stem seals
and piston rings. Excessive oil consumption is another indi-
cator of an engine that is burning oil. Perform a compres-
sion test (Chapter Three) to isolate the problem.

White Smoke or Steam

It is normal to see white smoke or steam from the exhaust

after first starting the engine in cold weather. This is actu-
ally condensed steam formed by the engine during combus-

tion. If the motorcycle is ridden far enough, the water can-
not buildup in the crankcase and should not be a problem.
Once the engine heats up to normal operating temperature,
the water evaporates and exits the engine. However, if the
motorcycle is ridden for short trips or repeatedly started and
stopped and allowed to cool off without the engine getting
warm enough, water will start to collect in the crankcase.
With each short run of the engine, more water collects. As
this water mixes with the oil in the crankcase, sludge is pro-
duced. Water sludge can eventually cause engine damage
as it circulates through the lubrication system and blocks
off oil passages. Water draining from drain holes in exhaust
pipes indicate water buildup.

LEAKDOWN TEST

A leakdown test can determine engine problems from

leaking valves, blown head gaskets or broken, worn or
stuck piston rings. A leakdown test is performed by apply-
ing compressed air to the cylinder and then measuring the
loss percentage. A cylinder leakdown tester (Figure 83,
typical) and an air compressor are required to perform this
test.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions along with the fol-

lowing information when performing a cylinder leakdown
test.
1. Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature.
2. Remove the air filter (Chapter Three). Then set the
throttle and choke valves in the wide open position.
3. Remove the ignition timing inspection plug from the
crankcase (Figure 84).
4. Set the piston for the cylinder being tested to TDC on its
compression stroke. Refer to

Ignition Timing

in Chapter

Three.
5. Remove the spark plugs (Chapter Three).

NOTE

The engine may want to turn over when air
pressure is applied to the cylinder. To prevent
this from happening, shift the transmission
into fifth gear and apply the rear brake.

6. Make a leakdown test following the leakdown tester
manufacturer’s instructions. Listen for air leaking while
noting the following:

a. Air leaking through the exhaust pipe indicates a leak-

ing exhaust valve.

b. Air leaking through the carburetor indicates a leaking

intake valve.

NOTE

Air leaking through the valves can also be
caused by pushrods that are too long.

c. Air leaking through the ignition timing inspection

hole indicates worn or broken piston rings, a leaking
cylinder head gasket or a worn piston.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Cylinder
pressure

Supply
pressure

To cylinder head

To air

compressor

Leakdown
tester

7. Repeat for the other cylinder.

8. If the pressure loss between cylinders differs by more
than 12 percent, the engine is in poor condition and further
testing is required.

ENGINE LUBRICATION

An improperly operating engine lubrication system will

quickly lead to engine damage. The engine oil tank should
be checked weekly and the tank refilled as described in
Chapter Three.

Oil pump service is covered in Chapter Five.

Oil Light

The oil light, mounted on the indicator light panel (Fig-

ure 85), will come on when the ignition switch is turned to
on before starting the engine. After the engine is started, the
oil light should go off when the engine speed is above idle.

If the oil light does not come on when the ignition switch

is turned on and the engine is not running, check for a
burned out oil light bulb. If the bulb is okay, check the oil
pressure switch (Figure 86) as described in Chapter
Twelve.

If the oil light remains on when the engine speed is above

idle, turn the engine off and check the oil level in the oil
tank as described in Chapter Three. If the oil level is satis-
factory, check the following:

1. Oil may not be returning to the tank from the return line.
Check for a clogged or damaged return line or a damaged
oil pump.

2. If the motorcycle is operated in conditions where the
ambient temperature is below freezing, ice and sludge may
be blocking the oil feed pipe. This condition will prevent
the oil from circulating properly.

Oil Consumption High or Engine Smokes Excessively

1. Worn valve guides.

2. Worn valve guide seals.

3. Worn or damaged piston rings.

4. Restricted oil tank return line.

5. Oil tank overfilled.

6. Oil filter restricted.

7. Leaking cylinder head surfaces.

Oil Fails to Return to Oil Tank

1. Oil lines or fittings restricted or damaged.

2. Oil pump damaged or operating incorrectly.

3. Oil tank empty.

4. Oil filter restricted.

Excessive Engine Oil Leaks

1. Clogged air filter breather hose.
2. Restricted or damaged oil return line to oil tank.
3. Loose engine parts.
4. Damaged gasket sealing surfaces.
5. Oil tank overfilled.

CLUTCH

All clutch troubles, except adjustments, require partial

clutch disassembly to identify and cure the problem. Refer
to Chapter Six or Chapter Seven for clutch service proce-
dures.

Make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted (Chapter

Three) before investigating internal problems.

Clutch Chatter or Noise

This problem is generally caused by worn or warped fric-

tion and steel plates. Also check for worn or damaged bear-
ings.

Clutch Slip

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.
2. Worn friction plates.
3. Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.
4. Damaged pressure plate.

Clutch Dragging

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.
2. Warped clutch plates.
3. Worn or damaged clutch shell or clutch hub.

TRANSMISSION

Refer to Chapter Eight or Chapter Nine for transmission

service procedures. Make sure that the clutch is not causing
the trouble before working on the transmission.

CHAPTER TWO

Jumping Out of Gear

1. Incorrect shifter pawl adjuster.
2. Worn or damaged shifter parts.
3. Bent shift forks.
4. Severely worn or damaged gears.

Difficult Shifting

1. Worn or damaged shift forks.
2. Loose or damaged detent plate.
3. Worn or damaged shift shaft assembly.
4. Worn or damaged detent arm.
5. Worn shift fork drum groove(s).
6. Loose, worn or damaged shifter fork pin(s).
7. Damaged shift shaft splines.

Excessive Gear Noise

1. Worn or damaged bearings.
2. Worn or damaged gears.
3. Excessive gear backlash.

ELECTRICAL TESTING

This section describes typical test equipment and how to

troubleshoot with it.

Never assume anything and do not overlook the obvious,

such as a blown fuse or an electrical connector that has sep-
arated. Test the simplest and most obvious items first and
try to make tests at easily accessible points on the motorcy-
cle. Make sure to troubleshoot systematically.

Refer to the color wiring diagrams at the end of the man-

ual for component and connector identification. Use the
wiring diagrams to determine how the circuit should work
by tracing the current paths from the power source through
the circuit components to ground. Also check any circuits
that share the same fuse, ground or switch. If the other cir-
cuits work properly and the shared wiring is good, the cause
must be in the wiring used only by the suspect circuit. If all
related circuits are faulty at the same time, the probable
cause is a poor ground connection or a blown fuse(s).

Preliminary Checks and Precautions

Before starting any electrical troubleshooting, perform

the following:
1. Inspect the fuse for the suspected circuit, and replace it if
blown. Refer to

Circuit Breakers

and

Fuses

in Chapter

Twelve.
2. Inspect the battery (Chapter Twelve). Make sure it is
fully charged and the battery leads are clean and securely
attached to the battery terminals.
3. Electrical connectors are often the cause of electrical sys-
tem problems. Inspect the connectors as follows:

a. Disconnect each electrical connector in the suspect

circuit and make sure there are no bent terminals in
the electrical connector. A bent terminal will not con-
nect to its mate, causing an open circuit.

b. Make sure the terminals are pushed all the way into

the connector. If not, carefully push them in with a
narrow blade screwdriver.

c. Check the wires where they attach to the terminals for

damage.

d. Make sure each terminal is clean and free of corro-

sion. Clean them, if necessary, and pack the connec-
tors with dielectric grease.

e. Push the connector halves together. Make sure the

connectors are fully engaged and locked together.

f. Never pull the wires when disconnecting a connector.

Pull only on the connector housing.

4. Never use a self-powered test light on circuits that con-
tain solid-state devices. The solid-state devices may be
damaged.

Intermittent Problems

Problems that do not occur all the time can be difficult to

isolate during testing. For example, when a problem only
occurs when the motorcycle is ridden over rough roads (vi-
bration) or in wet conditions (water penetration). Note the
following:
1. Vibration. This is a common problem with loose or dam-
aged electrical connectors.

a. Perform a continuity test as described in the appropri-

ate service procedure or under

Continuity Test

in this

section.

b. Lightly pull or wiggle the connectors while repeating

the test. Do the same when checking the wiring har-
ness and individual components, especially where
the wires enter a housing or connector.

c. A change in meter readings indicates a poor connec-

tion. Find and repair the problem or replace the part.
Check for wires with cracked or broken insulation.

NOTE

An analog ohmmeter is useful when making
this type of test. Slight needle movements are
visibly apparent, which indicate a loose con-
nection.

TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Heat. This is a common problem with connectors or
joints that have loose or poor connections. As these connec-
tions heat up, the connection or joint expands and separates,
causing an open circuit. Other heat related problems occur
when a component starts to fail as it heats up.

a. Troubleshoot the problem to isolate the circuit.

CAUTION

A heat gun will quickly raise the temperature
of the component being tested. Do not apply
heat directly to the circuit or use heat in ex-
cess of 140° F (60° C) on any electrical com-
ponent.

b. To check a connector, perform a continuity test as de-

scribed in the appropriate service procedure or under

Continuity Test

in this section. Then repeat the test

while heating the connector with a heat gun. If the
meter reading was normal (continuity) when the con-
nector was cold, and then fluctuated or read infinity
when heat was applied, the connection is bad.

c. To check a component, allow the engine to cool, and

then start and run the engine. Note operational differ-
ences when the engine is cold and hot.

d. If the engine will not start, isolate and remove the

suspect component. Test it at room temperature and
again after heating it with a heat gun. A change in me-
ter readings indicates a temperature problem.

3. Water. When the problem occurs when riding in wet con-
ditions or in areas with high humidity, start and run the en-
gine in a dry area. Then, with the engine running, spray
water onto the suspected component/circuit. Water-related
problems often stop after the component heats up and dries.

Test Light or Voltmeter

Use a test light to check for voltage in a circuit. Attach

one lead to ground and the other lead to various points
along the circuit. It does not make a difference which test
lead is attached to ground. The bulb lights when voltage is
present.

Use a voltmeter in the same manner as the test light to

find out if voltage is present in any given circuit. The volt-
meter, unlike the test light, also indicates how much voltage
is present at each test point.

Voltage test

Unless otherwise specified, make all voltage tests with

the electrical connectors still connected. Insert the test leads
into the backside of the connector and make sure the test
lead touches the electrical terminal within the connector
housing. If the test lead only touches the wire insulation, it
will cause a false reading.

Always check both sides of the connector because one

side may be loose or corroded, thus preventing electrical

flow through the connector. This type of test can be per-
formed with a test light or a voltmeter.
1. Attach the voltmeter negative test lead to a confirmed
ground location. If possible, use the battery ground connec-
tion. Make sure the ground is not insulated.
2. Attach the voltmeter positive test lead to the point to be
tested (Figure 87).
3. Turn the ignition switch on. If using a test light, the test
light will come on if voltage is present. If using a voltmeter,
note the voltage reading. The reading should be within 1
volt of battery voltage. If the voltage is less there is a prob-
lem in the circuit.

Voltage drop test

The wires, cables, connectors and switches in the electri-

cal circuit are designed to carry current with low resistance.
This ensures current can flow through the circuit with a
minimum loss of voltage. Voltage drop indicates where
there is resistance in a circuit. A higher-than-normal
amount of resistance in a circuit decreases the flow of cur-
rent and causes the voltage to drop between the source and
destination in the circuit.

CHAPTER TWO

Voltmeter

Voltage drop

Battery

Fan motor

Because resistance causes voltage to drop, a voltmeter is

used to measure voltage drop when current is running
through the circuit. If the circuit has no resistance, there is
no voltage drop so the voltmeter indicates 0 volts. The
greater the resistance in a circuit, the greater the voltage
drop reading.

To perform a voltage drop:

1. Connect the positive meter test lead to the electrical
source (where electricity is coming from).
2. Connect the voltmeter negative test lead to the electrical
load (where the electricity is going). Refer to Figure 88.
3. If necessary, activate the component(s) in the circuit.
4. Read the voltage drop (difference in voltage between the
source and destination) on the voltmeter. Note the following:

a. The voltmeter should indicate 0 volts. If there is a

drop of 1 volt or more, there is a problem within the
circuit. A voltage drop reading of 12 volts indicates
an open in the circuit.

b. A voltage drop of 1 or more volts indicates that a cir-

cuit has excessive resistance.

c. For example, consider a starting problem where the

battery is fully charged but the starter turns over
slowly. Voltage drop would be the difference in the
voltage at the battery (source) and the voltage at the
starter (destination) as the engine is being started
(current is flowing through the battery cables). A cor-
roded battery cable would cause a high voltage drop
(high resistance) and slow engine cranking.

d. Common sources of voltage drop are loose or con-

taminated connectors and poor ground connections.

Short test

A test light may also be used.

1. Remove the blown fuse from the fuse panel.
2. Connect the voltmeter across the fuse terminals in the
fuse panel. Turn the ignition switch on and check for bat-
tery voltage.
3. With the voltmeter attached to the fuse terminals, wiggle
the wiring harness relating to the suspect circuit at approxi-
mately 6 in. (15 cm) intervals. Start next to the fuse panel

and work systematically away from the panel. Note the
voltmeter reading while progressing along the harness.
4. If the voltmeter reading changes or the test light blinks,
there is a short-to-ground at that point in the harness.

Ammeter

Use an ammeter to measure the flow of current (amps) in

a circuit (Figure 89). When

connected in series

in a circuit,

the ammeter determines if current is flowing through the
circuit and if that current flow is excessive because of a
short in the circuit. Current flow is often referred to as cur-
rent draw. Comparing actual current draw in the circuit or
component to current draw specification (if specified by the
manufacturer) provides useful diagnostic information.

Self-powered Test Light

A self-powered test light can be constructed from a

12-volt light bulb, a pair of test leads and a 12-volt battery.
When the test leads are touched together the light bulb
should go on.

Use a self-powered test light as follows:

1. Touch the test leads together to make sure the light bulb
goes on. If not, correct the problem.
2. Disconnect the motorcycle’s battery or remove the fuse(s)
that protects the circuit to be tested. Do not connect a
self-powered test light to a circuit that has power applied to it.
3. Select two points within the circuit where there should be
continuity.
4. Attach one lead of the test light to each point.
5. If there is continuity, the test light bulb will come on.
6. If there is no continuity, the test light bulb will not come
on, indicating an open circuit.

Ohmmeter

CAUTION

To prevent damage to the ohmmeter, never
connect it to a circuit that has power applied
to it. Always disconnect the battery negative
lead before using an ohmmeter.

Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance (in ohms) to

current flow in a circuit or component.

Ohmmeters may be analog type (needle scale) or digital

type (LCD or LED readout). Both types of ohmmeters have
a switch that allows the user to select different ranges of re-
sistance for accurate readings. The analog ohmmeter also
has a set-adjust control, which is used to zero or calibrate
the meter (digital ohmmeters do not require calibration).
Refer to the ohmmeter’s instructions to determine the cor-
rect scale setting.

Use an ohmmeter by connecting its test leads to the circuit

or component to be tested. If an analog meter is used, it must
be calibrated by touching the test leads together and turning

TROUBLESHOOTING

Ammeter

Connected
in series

Measures
current flow

the set-adjust knob until the meter needle reads zero. When
the leads are uncrossed, the needle should move to the other
end of the scale, indicating infinite resistance.

During a continuity test, a reading of infinite resistance

indicates an open in the circuit or component. A reading of
zero indicates continuity, that is, there is no measurable re-
sistance in the circuit or component. A measured reading
indicates the actual resistance to current flow that is present
in that circuit. Even though resistance is present, the circuit
has continuity.

Continuity test

Perform a continuity test to determine the integrity of a

circuit, wire or component. A circuit has continuity if it
forms a complete circuit; that is if there are no opens in ei-
ther the electrical wires or components within the circuit. A
circuit with an open, on the other hand, has no continuity.

This type of test can be performed with a self-powered test

light or an ohmmeter. An ohmmeter gives the best results.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable or disconnect the
test circuit/component from its power source.
2. Attach one test lead (test light or ohmmeter) to one end of
the part of the circuit to be tested.
3. Attach the other test lead to the other end of the part or the
circuit to be tested.
4. The self-powered test light comes on if there is continu-
ity. An ohmmeter reads 0 or low resistance if there is conti-
nuity. A reading of infinite resistance indicates no
continuity; the circuit is open.
5. If testing a component, note the resistance and compare
this to the specification if available.

Short test

An analog ohmmeter or one with an audible continuity

indicator works best for short testing. A self-powered test
light may also be used.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (Chapter Twelve).
2. If necessary, remove the blown fuse from the fuse panel
(Chapter Twelve).
3. Connect one test lead of the ohmmeter to the load side
(battery side) of the fuse terminal in the fuse panel.
4. Connect the other test lead to a confirmed ground loca-
tion. Make sure the ground is not insulated. If possible, use
the battery ground connection.
5. Wiggle the wiring harness relating to the suspect circuit
at approximately 6 in. (15 cm) intervals. Watch the ohmme-
ter while progressing along the harness.
6. If the ohmmeter needle moves or the ohmmeter beeps,
there is a short-to-ground at that point in the harness.

Jumper Wire

Use a jumper wire to bypass a potential problem and iso-

late it to a particular point in a circuit. If a faulty circuit

works properly with a jumper wire installed, an open exists
between the two jumped points in the circuit.

To troubleshoot with a jumper wire, first use the wire to

determine if the problem is on the ground side or the load
side of a device. Test the ground by connecting the wire be-
tween the lamp and a good ground. If the lamp comes on,
the problem is the connection between the lamp and
ground. If the lamp does not come on with the wire in-
stalled, the lamp’s connection to ground is good, so the
problem is between the lamp and the power source.

To isolate the problem, connect the wire between the bat-

tery and the lamp. If it comes on, the problem is between
these two points. Next, connect the wire between the bat-
tery and the fuse side of the switch. If the lamp comes on,
the switch is good. By successively moving the wire from
one point to another, the problem can be isolated to a partic-
ular place in the circuit.

Note the following when using a jumper wire:

1. Make sure the wire gauge (thickness) is the same as that
used in the circuit being tested. Smaller gauge wire rapidly
overheats and could melt.

2. Make sure the jumper wire has insulated alligator clips.
This prevents accidental grounding (sparks) or possible
shock. Install an inline fuse/fuse holder in the jumper wire.

3. A jumper wire is a temporary test measure. Do not leave a
jumper wire installed as a permanent solution. This creates
a fire hazard.

CHAPTER TWO

Female

Male

Female
(test here)

4. Never use a jumper wire across any load (a component
that is connected and turned on). This would cause a direct
short and blow the fuse(s).

ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER/TACHOMETER

Refer to the following procedures to troubleshoot prob-

lems related to the electronic speedometer/tachometer.

Tools

A speedometer test harness is required to troubleshoot

the speed sensor. Fabricate the harness from one 3-pin
Deutsch male connector, two 3-socket Deutsch female con-
nectors, and 6-inch lengths of 18-gauge wire. Use three
wires to connect the male connector to one of the female
connectors and splice the second female connector to the
wires. See Figure 90.

During testing, connect the harness between the two

sides of the speed sensor connector when instructed to in-
stall the test harness. Probe the second female connector at
the indicated test points.

Speedometer Diagnostics
(1998 883 and All 1999-2003 Models)

The speedometer in 1999-2003 models and in some

late-model 1998 883 models has a self-diagnostic function.
This speedometer can be identified by its amber back light

and its 12-terminal connector on the back of the speedome-
ter (A, Figure 91).

When in the diagnostic mode, the speedometer runs a se-

ries of tests and then displays the results of these tests as di-
agnostic codes.

To enter the diagnostic mode, perform the following:

1. Press and hold the reset switch.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. When you enter the diagnostic mode, the first code, d0l,
will appear in the odometer display followed by a status in-
dicator, either SEt or CLr. For example: d01SEt indicates
that code d01 has been set. The code d01CLr indicates d01
is clear.

NOTE

When in the diagnostic mode never press the
reset switch for more than five seconds. This
erases all stored diagnostic codes.

4. Briefly press the reset switch to display the next code and
its status. Codes are displayed sequentially by code number.
5. Toggle through the codes one by one and note which
codes have been set. When all codes have been displayed,
the speedometer will display the calibration number (CAL
14 or CAL 15).
6. When a diagnostic code has been set, refer to the chart in
Figure 92 to identify the fault and appropriate trouble-
shooting chart (Figures 93-97).
7. Diagnostic codes are cleared whenever the reset switch
is pressed and held for five seconds while the speedometer

TROUBLESHOOTING

SPEEDOMETER DIAGNOSTIC CODES

Diagnostic code

Fault

Troubleshooting chart

d01

Speed sensor power

Figure 94 or Figure 96

output shorted low

d02

Speed sensor power

Figure 94 or Figure 96

output shorted high or open

d03

Not used

–

d04

Not used

–

d05

Speed sensor return shorted high

Figure 94 or Figure 97

d06

Speed sensor return shorted low

Figure 94 or Figure 97

d07

Not used

–

d08

Speedometer power overvoltage

Figure 94 or Figure 97

d09

Speed sensor output shorted high

Figure 100 or Figure 101

d10

Speed sensor output

Figure 100 or Figure 101

shorted low or open

CAL 14

Speedometer application calibration

number for domestic (U.S. models)

–

CAL 15

Speedometer application

calibration number for HDI models

–

5-digit number

Speedometer pulses per unit after

all does are displayed

1. Refer to Figure 94 for 1997-1998 models except late-model 1998 883 models. Refer to Figure 96 or Figure 97
for late model 1998 883 models and 1999 models.
2. Refer to Figure 100 for 1997-1998 models except late-model 1998 883 models. Refer to Figure 101 for late
model 1998 883 models and 1999 models.
3. 2002-2003 models. Number will vary depending on part number.

CHAPTER TWO

Symptom: Odometer is inoperable and
trip odometer is inoperable.

*Replace speedometer.

Verify that the trip display consists
of the correct numbers. Are the cor-
rect numbers displayed?

Turn the reset switch boot clockwise to
tighten. Toggle the switch again and
verify operation. Does LCD display tog-
gle between trip and odometer modes?

Perform the di-
agnostic proce-
dure in Figure
94 or Figure 95.

*Replace the
speedometer.

Unit function-
ing properly.

Remove the boot
over the trip reset
switch. Toggle the
trip reset switch
without the boot.
Does the LCD dis-
play toggle be-
tween the trip
odometer and
odometer modes?

Replace the boot.

On 1997-1998 models, cut leads 1 in.
from reset switch. Place a jump wire
across the leads to the speedometer.

On 1999-2003 models, momentarily
place a jumper wire across the switch
terminals located on the connector on
the back of the speedometer.

Does the LCD display toggle be-
tween trip and odometer modes?

Replace the
reset switch.

Press the trip reset switch. Does the
LCD display on the speedometer tog-
gle between trip and odometer modes?

Yes

Does odometer display correct numbers?

Turn the ignition on.

Yes

*Replace the
speedometer.

*Before replacing the speedometer,
confirm that it is defective by taking the
motorcycle to a dealership. Further
testing requires the use of a Scanalyzer.

ODOMETER, TRIP ODOMETER

AND RESET SWITCH (1997-2003 MODELS)

TROUBLESHOOTING

Check the speedometer and odometer
bulbs. Have the bulbs failed?

Replace the bulbs
as necessary.

If speedometer backlighting
is not on, check for 9-12
volts on the orange/white
wire and continuity to
ground on the black wire at
terminals on back of the
speedometer. Repair as nec-
essary.

Yes

Check for open wires or
replace the speedome-
ter* if the wires are in
good condition.

* Replace the
speedometer.

Repair wiring as
necessary.

Make sure the spark
plug wire terminals
are properly seated
onto spark plugs and
secondary coil termi-
nals/standoffs. Also
check for wear points
on the spark plug
wires where insulation
may be damaged. Is
there damage?

* Replace the speedometer.

Repair as neces-
sary.

*Note: Before replacing the speedometer or speed
sensor, confirm that it is defective by taking the
motorcycle to a dealership. Further testing
requires the use of a Scanalyzer.

Symptom: speedometer is inoperative,
reads high or low, needle sticks or is in-
termittent and erratic.

Turn the ignition on.

Is the speedometer backlighting on?

Yes

6-12 volts present,
but no fluctuation
to 0-1 volt.

6-12 volts is
not present.

Yes

Wiggle the harness while checking the volt-
age between the orange/white wire and the
black wire at the back of the speedometer
at the meter harness connector [20] on
1995-1996 models. Does voltage fluctuate?

Yes

Disconnect the speed sensor connec-
tor [65]. With the ignition turned on,
measure the voltage at the red wire on
the speedometer side of the connector
[65B]. On 1995-96 models, voltage
should be 8-12 volts. On 1997-1998
models, voltage should be 6-12 volts. Is
voltage within specification?

Check the speedometer
test harness in-line be-
tween the speedometer
and sensor side of the
speed-sensor connector.
With the ignition turned
on, rotate the rear wheel
and check for voltage on
the white wire. Voltage
should fluctuate between
0-1 volts and 6-12 volts. Is
voltage present?

*Replace the speed sen-
sor with a known good
unit and recheck. If prob-
lem persists, take the
motorcycle to a dealer-
ship for further testing.

INOPERATIVE, INACCURATE OR

ERRATIC SPEEDOMETER

(1995-1998 MODELS EXCEPT LATE MODEL 1998 883 MODELS)

Check for continuity to
ground at the black wire on
the speedometer side of the
speed-sensor connector
[65B]. Is continuity found?

Yes

CHAPTER TWO

INOPERATIVE, INACCURATE OR ERRATIC SPEEDOMETER

(LATE-MODEL 1998 883 AND 1999-2003 MODELS)

Symptom: speedometer is inoperative, reads high
or low, needle sticks or is intermittent and erratic.

Turn ignition switch on. Is the speedometer
backlighting on?

*Note: Before replacing the
speedometer, confirm it is defective
by taking the motorcycle to a
dealership. Further testing requires
the use of a Scanalyzer.

Disconnect the 12-terminal speedometer
connector [39] from the back of the
speedometer. Turn the ignition on. Mea-
sure the voltage at the orange/white ter-
minal in the speedometer connector. Is
the voltage 12 volts?

Enable the diagnostic
mode and check for
codes. Are any codes
present?

Return the speedome-
ter to normal operating
state. Turn the ignition
switch on. Rotate the
back tire. Turn the igni-
tion off. Enable the di-
agnostic mode. Are
any codes present?

Perform the di-
agnostic proce-
dure indicated
in Figure 92.

Repair the har-
ness or connec-
tors.

Further testing required.*

Yes

Locate and re-
pair the open in
the orange/white
wire.

Yes

* Replace
speedometer.

Speed
sensor

Speedometer

Odometer reset
switch

12 VDC input

White/green wire
to turn signal
canceler

Connector [65]

Connector [39]
(on back of speedometer)

Connector [20]

5th gear
mainshaft

Sensor leads:

R-Red: +12 VDC

W-White: Output signal (square wave)

B-Black: Ground

Check continuity
to ground on the
black wire at con-
nector [39B]. Con-
tinuity present?

Locate and re-
pair the open in
the black wire.

TROUBLESHOOTING

SPEEDOMETER DIAGNOSTIC CODES d01 AND d02

(LATE MODEL 1998 883 AND 1999-2003 MODELS)

*Note: Before replacing the speedometer, confirm
that it is defective by taking the motorcycle to a
dealership. Further testing requires the use of a
Scanalyzer.

Disconnect the speed-sensor connec-
tor [65]. Turn the ignition on. Measure
the voltage at the red terminal on the
connector. Is voltage present?

Repair the
wires.

* Replace the
speedometer.

Yes

Check for continuity to ground on the black
wire in connector [65B]. Is continuity present?

Perform the diag-
nostic procedure
in Figure 97.

Yes

* Replace the
speedometer.

Check for open or grounded wires.
Are any present?

Repair the wires.

Yes

Check for open
wires. Are any
present?

100

CHAPTER TWO

SPEEDOMETER: DIAGNOSTIC CODES d05, d06 AND d08

(LATE MODELS 1998 883 AND 1999-2003 MODELS)

* Replace the speedometer.

*Note: Before replacing the speedometer or
speed sensor, confirm it is defective by taking
the motorcycle to a dealership. Further testing
requires the Scanalyzer.
**Begin troubleshooting diagnostic code d08
here.

Turn the ignition on. Wiggle the harness and
measure the voltage on the orange/white ter-
minal and black terminal of the speedometer
connector [39] while it is still connected to
the speedometer. Does the voltage fluctuate?

Yes

Make sure the spark plug wire terminals are
properly seated onto spark plugs and sec-
ondary coil terminals/standoffs. Also check
for wear points on the spark plug wires
where insulation may be damaged. Is the in-
sulation damaged?

Check the speedometer speed sensor. Clean
or replace the sensor as required. Is the
problem repaired?

* Replace
speedometer.

6-12 volt is
present, but
no fluctuation
to 0-1 volt.

*Replace the speed
sensor with a
known good unit
and recheck. If the
problem persists,
take the motorcycle
to a dealership for
further testing.

6-12 volts is
not present.

Yes

Repair the
connector as necessary.

Yes

Repair the
insulation as necessary.

Yes

System is operational.

Turn the ignition on. Slowly rotate the rear
wheel, and check for voltage on the white ter-
minal of the speed-sensor connector [65]
while the connector is still connected to the
speedometer. The voltage should fluctuate be-
tween 0-1 volt and 6-12 volts as the teeth on
5th gear approach and pass the speed sensor.
Is voltage present?

Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual - page 11