Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 107

spring must now be carefully released from
the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the
spring can be left in compression.
7 With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear and damage, and check the bearing for
smoothness of operation. Renew components
as necessary.
8 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
9 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
noting the following points:
(a) Make sure that the coil spring ends are

correctly located in the upper and lower
seats before releasing the compressor.

(b) Check that the bearing is correctly fitted

to the piston rod seat.

(c) Tighten the thrust bearing retaining nut to

the specified torque.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
2 Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the front suspension struts
on both sides of the vehicle. Note that, on
models with ABS, the wheel sensor wiring
support brackets are located beneath the nuts
(see illustrations).
3 Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar
mounting bolts from the engine subframe on
both sides of the vehicle.
4 Withdraw the anti-roll bar from one side of
the vehicle, taking care not to damage the
surrounding components.

5 If necessary, unscrew the nuts and remove
the links from the anti-roll bar.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel.
2 If removing the right-hand side lower arm,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover where
necessary.
3 Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts
securing the lower arm to the subframe (see
illustration).
4 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the anti-roll bar on both
sides. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards away
from the lower arm.
5 Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6 Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint, and
disconnect the gaiter from the CV joint
housing. This is necessary to prevent damage

to the gaiter when the steering knuckle is
moved outwards to remove the lower arm.
7 Note which way round the front suspension
lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then
unscrew and remove it from the knuckle
assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the
knuckle; if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the separation
procedure. Support the inner end of the
driveshaft on an axle stand (see illustrations).
8 Remove the lower arm from the subframe,
and withdraw it from the vehicle.

Overhaul

9 Examine the rubber bushes and the
suspension lower balljoint for wear and
damage. The balljoint may be renewed as
described in Section 8. The rubber bushes
may be removed using a press, or a length of
metal tubing together with a long bolt,
washers and nut.
10 Note that the front and rear bushes are
different. The front one has a solid rubber
bush with a cylindrical inner tube, whereas the
rear one has a voided rubber bush with a
barrel-shaped inner tube (see illustration).
11 Press the new bushes into the lower arm,
using the same method as used for removal.
Note that, when fitting the rear bush, the voids
must be in line with the front bush location.
On later models, a pip on the rear bush must
be aligned with a triangular alignment mark on
the arm.

7 Front suspension lower arm -

removal, overhaul and refitting

6 Front anti-roll bar and links -

removal and refitting

10•8 Suspension and steering systems

6.2A  Unscrew the nut . . .

6.2B  . . . and disconnect the anti-roll bar

link and (on ABS models) the sensor wiring

support bracket

7.3  One of the nuts and bolts securing the

lower arm to the subframe

7.7A  Unscrew the lower arm balljoint

clamp bolt . . .

7.7B  . . . and disconnect the balljoint from

the knuckle

Refitting

12 Locate the lower arm on the subframe,
and insert the mounting bolts. Fit the nuts and
tighten them in stages, first to the specified
torque and then through the angle specified.
13 If removed, locate the tripod on the inner
end of the driveshaft in the CV joint housing,
then refit the gaiter, together with a new clip.
14 Refit the front suspension lower arm
balljoint to the knuckle assembly, and insert
the clamp bolt with its head facing forwards.
Refit the nut and tighten to the specified
torque.
15 Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
align the holes, making sure that the torque
wrench setting is still within the specified
range. Insert a new split pin, and bend it back
to secure.
16 Swivel the anti-roll bar down, then
reconnect the links to the bar and tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.
17 If working on the right-hand side, refit the
auxiliary drivebelt cover where necessary.
18 Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.

Note: If the lower arm balljoint is worn, either
the complete lower arm or the balljoint alone
can be renewed. If the balljoint has already
been renewed, it will be bolted in position; if
the original balljoint is being renewed, then it
will be riveted in position (see illustration).
This Section describes the renewal of a
riveted balljoint.

1 Remove the front suspension lower arm as
described in Section 7. It is not recommended
that the balljoint be replaced with the lower
arm in position on the vehicle; the accurate
drilling necessary may not be possible, and
the holes in the arm may be enlarged.
2 With the lower arm on the bench, use a 
3 mm drill to make a pilot hole through each of
the three rivets. Now use a 9 mm drill to drill
the rivets to a depth of 12 mm, then use a 7 or
8 mm drift to drive the rivets out of the arm.
3 Clean any rust or dirt from the rivet holes.
4 The new balljoint is supplied with a
protective plastic cover over the rubber boot
and stub, and it is recommended that this
remains in position until it is time to connect
the balljoint to the steering knuckle.
5 Locate the new balljoint on the lower arm,
and use three new bolts to secure it, inserting
the bolts from the top of the arm. Tighten the
nuts to the specified torque. Make sure that
the location lug on the balljoint engages the
hole in the lower arm (see illustration).
6 Refit the front suspension lower arm as
described in Section 7.

Note: Removal of the rear hub damages the
bearings, and renders them unserviceable for
future use. The hub and bearing assembly
must always be renewed if it is removed.

Inspection

1 The rear hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied complete with the hub. It is
not possible to renew the bearings separately
from the hub.
2 To check the bearings for excessive wear,

chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Fully release the handbrake.
3 Grip the rear wheel at the top and bottom,
and attempt to rock it. If excessive movement
is noted, or if there is any roughness or
vibration felt when the wheel is spun, it is
indicative that the hub bearings are worn.

Renewal

4 Remove the rear wheel.
5 On models fitted with rear brake drums,
remove the rear brake drum as described in
Chapter 9.
6 On models fitted with rear brake discs,
remove the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.
7 On all models, tap off the dust cap and
unscrew the hub nut. Note that the nut is of
special laminated design, and should only be
re-used a maximum of 5 times. It is a good
idea to mark the nut with a file every time it is
removed. Obtain a new one if necessary.
8 Using a suitable puller, draw the hub and
bearing assembly off the stub axle. Note that
this procedure renders the bearings
unserviceable for future use.
9 Locate the new rear hub and bearing
assembly on the stub axle, then refit the hub
nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
10 Tap the dust cap fully onto the hub.
11 Refit the rear brake disc or drum as
applicable, as described in Chapter 9.
12 Refit the rear wheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.

9 Rear hub and bearings

(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
inspection and renewal

8 Front suspension lower arm

balljoint - renewal

Suspension and steering systems  10•9

10

7.10  Front suspension lower arm bushes

1  Front bush
2  Cylindrical inner tube

3  Rear bush
4  Barrel-shaped inner tube

5  Front of vehicle

8.5  Location lug (1) and bolt hole (2) in the

front suspension lower arm balljoint

8.0  Original riveted front suspension lower

arm balljoint

Note: Removal of the rear hub from the
knuckle damages the bearings, and renders
them unserviceable for future use. The hub
and bearing assembly must always be
renewed if it is removed.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2 When applicable, remove the ABS sensor
from the knuckle as described in Chapter 9.
3 Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.

Drum brake models

4 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose, then release the clip and detach the
flexible hose from the strut. Unscrew the
union nut, and detach the rigid brake pipe
from the wheel cylinder. If preferred (to
eliminate any bleeding procedure during
refitting) the rigid brake pipe may remain
attached to the wheel cylinder, provided that
care is taken to prevent damage to both the
rigid and flexible brake pipes.
5 Unbolt the backplate from the rear
suspension knuckle (see illustration), and
support it to one side on an axle stand. The
brake shoes and handbrake cable can remain
attached.

Disc brake models

6 Unbolt the splash shield from the rear
suspension knuckle.

All models

7 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle, and
move the tie-bar downwards.
8 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side.
9 Support the knuckle on an axle stand, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut.
10 Prise the top of the knuckle apart carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool, and withdraw

the knuckle downwards from the strut.
Withdraw the knuckle from under the rear
wheel arch.

Refitting

11 Locate the knuckle fully on the strut, then
insert the clamp bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
12 Refit the front and rear lower arms to the
knuckle, and insert the bolts finger-tight at
this stage.
13 Refit the tie-bar to the bottom of the
knuckle, and insert the bolt finger-tight at this
stage.
14 Refit the backplate (or splash shield, as
applicable) to the rear suspension knuckle,
and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

Drum brake models

15 Reconnect the rigid brake pipe to the
wheel cylinder (if disconnected), and tighten
the union nut.
16 Attach the flexible hose to the strut, refit
the clip, and remove the hose clamp.

All models

17 Fit a new rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
18 Where applicable, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
19 Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
20 With the weight of the vehicle on the
suspension, fully tighten the mounting bolts
for the tie-bar and lower arms.
21 Where applicable, bleed the hydraulic
brake circuit as described in Chapter 9.

Note: Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained. Careful use
of conventional coil spring compressors will
prove satisfactory.

Removal

1 In order to remove the rear suspension
strut, the coil spring must be temporarily
compressed. This will enable the piston rod to

be retracted into the strut, and will provide
additional room for releasing the strut from
the bump stop on top of the rear suspension
crossmember. 

Warning: It is important to only
use a high-quality spring
compressor; carefully follow the
tool manufacturer’s manuals
provided with it.

2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
3 Where fitted, unclip the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut, and remove the sensor from
the knuckle as described in Chapter 9 (see
illustration).
4 On models fitted with adaptive damping,
unclip the wiring from the strut and
disconnect the multi-plug (see illustration).
5 On drum brake models, fit a brake hose
clamp to the rear flexible brake hose, then
unscrew the union nut securing the rigid brake
pipe to the flexible hose on the strut. Extract
the clip, and disconnect the flexible hose from
the strut.
6 On models fitted with rear disc brakes,
unbolt the caliper from the knuckle as
described in Chapter 9, but leave the
hydraulic hose attached. Support the caliper
on an axle stand, making sure that the flexible
hose is not strained.
7 Unscrew the nut securing the rear anti-roll
bar link to the front lower arm on the
appropriate side. Hold the actual link with an
adjustable spanner or grips while unscrewing
the nut, to prevent damage to the link joint.
8 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle. Move the
tie-bar downwards (see illustrations).
9 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side (see illustrations).
10 Support the knuckle on a trolley jack, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut (see illustrations).
11 Prise the clamp on the knuckle apart
using a large flat-bladed tool. Disconnect the
knuckle from the strut, and lower it on the
trolley jack as far as possible, taking care not
to damage the handbrake cable (see
illustration).

11 Rear suspension strut

(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting

10 Rear suspension knuckle

(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting

10•10 Suspension and steering systems

10.5  Two of the bolts securing the brake

backplate to the rear suspension knuckle

11.3  Unclipping the ABS sensor wiring

from the strut

11.4  Location of the adaptive damping

lead (1) and multi-plug (2)

12 Fit the coil spring compressor tool
(ensuring that it is fully engaged), and
compress the coil spring until all tension is
relieved from the upper and lower mountings
(see illustration). This will also release the
bracket on the strut from the bump stop
rubber on the top of the rear crossmember.
13 Support the strut, then reach up under the
wheel arch, and unscrew the two bolts
securing the upper mounting to the
underbody (see illustration).
14 Slightly lift the strut, to force the piston
into the shock absorber and release the strut
bracket from the bump stop on the
crossmember. Lower the strut assembly and
withdraw it from under the vehicle (see
illustration).

Suspension and steering systems  10•11

10

11.12  Compressor tools fitted to the rear

coil spring

11.13  Bolts (arrowed) securing the strut

upper mounting to the underbody

11.14  Removing the rear suspension strut

11.10A  Support the knuckle on a trolley

jack . . .

11.10B  . . . and remove the knuckle-to-

strut clamp bolt

11.11  Separating the knuckle from the

strut

11.9A  Unscrew the bolt . . .

11.9B  . . . and remove the rear lower arm

from the knuckle

11.8A  Tie-bar mounting bolt on knuckle

11.8B  Remove the bolt . . .

11.8C  . . . and move the tie-bar

downwards