Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 86

grinding or head resurfacing. Use
compressed air, if available, to blow out all the
oil holes and passages.
2 Beginning at one end of the head, lubricate
and install the first valve. Apply molybdenum
disulphide-based grease or clean engine oil to
the valve stem, and refit the valve. Where the
original valves are being re-used, ensure that
each is refitted in its original guide. If new
valves are being fitted, insert them into the
locations to which they have been ground.
3 Fit the plastic protector supplied with new
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the
end of the valve stem, then put the new seal
squarely on top of the guide, and leave it
there; the action of refitting the valve spring
presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place
(see illustration).
4 Refit the valve spring and upper seat.
5 Compress the spring with a valve spring
compressor, and carefully install the collets in
the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease
to each collet to hold it in place if necessary
(see illustration). Slowly release the
compressor, and make sure the collets seat
properly.
6 When the valve is installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the
components.

7 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Be sure to return the components to
their original locations - don’t mix them up!
8 Refit the hydraulic tappets (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 13).

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. In addition to the new gaskets and other
replacement parts required, a hoist will be
needed. Alternatively, an adjustable engine
support bar, fitting into the water drain

channels on each side of the bonnet aperture,
and having a hook which will engage the
engine lifting eyes and allow the height of the
engine to be adjusted, could be used. Lifting
equipment such as this can be hired from
most tool hire shops - be sure that any such
equipment is rated well in excess of the
combined weight of the engine/transmission
unit.
1 Remove the cylinder head (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 14).
2 Bolt lifting eyes to suitable points on the
engine and transmission, then attach the
lifting equipment so that the engine/
transmission unit is supported securely.
3 Remove the sump (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 15).
4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see
illustration).
5 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that
each piston/connecting rod assembly can be
identified by its cylinder number (counting
from the timing belt end of the engine) etched
into the flat-machined surface of both the
connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine. Furthermore, each piston has an
arrow stamped into its crown, pointing
towards the timing belt end of the engine. If
no marks can be seen, make your own before
disturbing any of the components, so that you
can be certain of refitting each
piston/connecting rod assembly the right way
round, to its correct (original) bore, with the
cap also the right way round (see
illustrations).
6 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has
formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a
quarter-inch down from the top of each
cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear
have produced ridges, they must be
completely removed with a special tool (see
illustration). Follow the manufacturer’s
manuals provided with the tool. Failure to
remove the ridges before attempting to

9 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - removal

2B•12 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

8.3  Valve spring pressure is sufficient to

seat lower seat/stem oil seals on

reassembly

8.5  Apply a small dab of grease to each

collet before installation - it will hold them

in place on the valve stem until the spring

is released

9.4  Removing the oil baffle to provide

access to crankshaft and bearings

9.5A  Each connecting rod and big-end

bearing cap will have a flat-machined

surface visible from the front (exhaust)

side of the engine, with the cylinder

number etched in it

9.5B  Piston crown markings

A  1.6 and 1.8 litre engines
B  2.0 litre engines
1  Gudgeon pin diameter grade - when used
2  Piston skirt diameter grade
3  Arrow mark - pointing to timing belt end of 

engine

remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies
may result in piston ring breakage.
7 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap
bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and
bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the
cap.
8 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push
the connecting rod/piston assembly out
through the top of the engine. Use a wooden
hammer handle to push on the connecting
rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,
double-check that all of the ridge was
removed from the cylinder.
9 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
10 After removal, reassemble the big-end
bearing caps and shells on their respective
connecting rods, and refit the bolts finger-
tight. Leaving the old shells in place until
reassembly will help prevent the bearing
recesses from being accidentally nicked or
gouged. New shells should be used on
reassembly.
11 Don’t attempt to separate the pistons
from the connecting rods - see Section 12.

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine/transmission has been
removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that
the transmission and flywheel/driveplate,
timing belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle, oil pump,
and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have
already been removed. The crankshaft left-
hand oil seal carrier must be unbolted from
the cylinder block/crankcase before
proceeding with crankshaft removal.
1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft
(see illustration).
2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the
gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft
towards the gauge as far as possible, and

check the reading obtained. The distance that
the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is
greater than specified, check the crankshaft
thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,
new thrustwashers should correct the
endfloat; these are part of the No 3 (centre)
main bearing upper shell (see illustration).
3 If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges
can be used. Gently lever or push the
crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand
end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between
the crankshaft and the right-hand face of the
No 3 (centre) main bearing to determine the
clearance (see illustration).
4 Check the main bearing caps, to see if they
are marked to indicate their locations (see
illustration). They should be numbered
consecutively from the timing belt end of the
engine - if not, mark them with number-
stamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps will
also have an embossed arrow pointing to the
timing belt end of the engine. Noting the
different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used on
caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, starting with the left- and
right-hand end caps and working toward the
centre, until they can be removed by hand.
5 Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced
hammer, then separate them from the cylinder
block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts
as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop
the bearing shells if they come out with the
caps.

6 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. It may be a good idea to have an
assistant available, since the crankshaft is
quite heavy. With the bearing shells in place in
the cylinder block/crankcase and main
bearing caps, return the caps to their
respective locations on the block, and tighten
the bolts finger-tight. Leaving the old shells in
place until reassembly will help prevent the
bearing recesses from being accidentally
nicked or gouged. New shells should be used
on reassembly.

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.

Cleaning

1 For complete cleaning, remove the water
pump, all external components, and all
electrical switches/sensors. Unbolt the
piston-cooling oil jets or blanking plugs (as

11 Cylinder block/crankcase -

cleaning and inspection

10 Crankshaft - removal

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2B•13

2B

10.3  Checking crankshaft endfloat with a

feeler gauge

10.4  Before unbolting crankshaft main

bearing caps, note arrows pointing to timing

belt end of engine (A), and bearing numbers

(B) consecutive from timing belt end

9.6  A ridge reamer may be required, to

remove the ridge from the top of each

cylinder - do this before removing the

pistons!

10.1  Checking crankshaft endfloat with a

dial gauge

10.2  Thrustwashers integral with No 3

(centre) main bearing upper shell control

crankshaft endfloat

applicable); note that Ford state that the
piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be
renewed whenever the engine is dismantled
for full overhaul (see illustrations).
2 Remove the main bearing caps, and
separate the bearing shells from the caps and
the cylinder block/crankcase. Mark or label
the shells, indicating which bearing they were
removed from, and whether they were in the
cap or the block, then set them aside (see
illustration). Wipe clean the block and cap
bearing recesses, and inspect them for nicks,
gouges and scratches.
3 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder

block/crankcase, taking care not to damage
the sealing surfaces.
4 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped.
Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller (see illustration).

Caution: The core plugs (also
known as freeze or soft plugs)
may be difficult or impossible to
retrieve if they are driven into the
block coolant passages.

5 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
6 After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

7 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
8 All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into

2B•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

11.1A  Remove water pump . . .

11.1B  . . . crankcase breather pipe and

PCV valve . . .

11.1C  . . . unbolt crankcase ventilation

system oil separator . . .

11.1F  . . . but note that piston-cooling oil

jets (where fitted) must be renewed as a

matter of course whenever engine is

overhauled

11.2  Felt marker pens can be used as

shown to identify bearing shells without

damaging them

11.1D  . . . remove electrical

switches/sensors such as crankshaft

speed/position sensor . . .

11.1E  . . . unbolt blanking plugs (where

fitted) to clean out oilways . . .

11.4  The core plugs should be removed

with a puller - if they’re driven into the

block, they may be impossible to 

retrieve

each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion,
thread sealant or sludge, and to restore
damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation; a
good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied
water-dispersant lubricant into each hole,
using the long spout usually supplied. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes in
this way, and be sure to dry out
any excess liquid left in the holes.

9 When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
into the holes in the block. Tighten them
securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of
the new core plugs with suitable sealant,
install them in the cylinder block/crankcase
(see illustration). Make sure they are driven
in straight and seated properly, or leakage
could result. Special tools are available for
this purpose, but a large socket with an
outside diameter that will just slip into the
core plug, used with an extension and
hammer, will work just as well.
10 Refit the blanking plugs or (new) piston-
cooling oil jets (as applicable), tightening their
Torx screws to the torque wrench setting
specified (see illustration). Refit also all other
external components removed, referring to

the relevant Chapter of this manual for further
details where required. Refit the main bearing
caps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
11 If the engine is not going to be
reassembled right away, cover it with a large
plastic bag to keep it clean; protect the
machined surfaces as described above, to
prevent rusting.

Inspection

12 Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly (see illustration).
13 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
14 Noting that the cylinder bores must be
measured with all the crankshaft main bearing
caps bolted in place (without the crankshaft
and bearing shells), to the specified torque
wrench settings, measure the diameter of
each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge
area), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore,
parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measure
each cylinder’s diameter at the same three
locations across the crankshaft axis (see
illustrations). Note the measurements
obtained.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2B•15

2B

11.12  Cylinder block, piston/connecting

rod and crankshaft details

1  Cylinder block/crankcase
2  Piston
3  Connecting rod
4  Big-end bearing shell
5  Big-end bearing cap
6  Big-end bearing cap bolts
7  Crankshaft

11.14A  Measure the diameter of each

cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at

the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)

11.14B  The ability to “feel” when the

telescoping gauge is at the correct point will
be developed over time, so work slowly, and

repeat the check until you’re satisfied that

the bore measurement is accurate

11.8  All bolt holes in the block -

particularly the main bearing cap and head

bolt holes - should be cleaned and

restored with a tap (be sure to remove

debris from the holes after this is done)

11.9  A large socket on an extension can

be used to drive the new core plugs into

their bores

11.10  Do not forget to refit all components

- such as oilway blanking plugs (three of

four arrowed) - tighten fasteners to torque

wrench settings specified

11.14C  The gauge is then measured with a

micrometer to determine the bore size