Ford Orion. Manual - part 46

General information and
precautions

The braking system is of the diagonally

split, dual-circuit hydraulic type, with servo
assistance to the front disc brakes and rear
drum/disc brakes (see illustration). The dual-
circuit hydraulic system is a safety feature - in
the event of a malfunction somewhere in one
of the hydraulic circuits, the other circuit
continues to operate, providing at least some
braking effort. Under normal circumstances,
both brake circuits operate in unison, to
provide efficient braking.

The master cylinder (and the vacuum servo

unit to which it is bolted) is located on the left-
hand side of the bulkhead in the engine
compartment. On all right-hand drive variants,
they are jointly operated via a transverse
cross-link from the brake pedal.

Brake pressure control valves are fitted in-

line to each rear brake circuit, their function
being to regulate the braking force available at
each rear wheel, reducing the possibility of
the rear wheels locking up under heavy
braking. Van models also have a “light-laden”
valve incorporated into the rear braking
circuits for the same reason.

The front brake discs are of the ventilated

type on all 1.6 litre, 1.8 litre and ABS-
equipped models. Solid discs are fitted on all
other models. The front brake calipers are of
single sliding piston design, which ensures
that equal effort is applied through each pair
of brake pads to the discs. The calipers are
mounted on the front spindle carriers each
side.

Each rear brake drum can be simply

unbolted from its rear axle flange, together
with the integrally-fitted wheel hub, and
removed to provide unhindered access to the
shoe assemblies. Each rear brake shoe
assembly is operated by a twin-piston wheel
cylinder. The leading brake shoe in each
brake unit has a thicker lining than the trailing
shoe, so that they wear proportionally. To take
up the brake adjustment as the linings wear,
each rear brake assembly incorporates an
automatic adjuster mechanism.

On models fitted with rear disc brakes, the

brake calipers are of twin-piston fixed type,
with handbrake operation by means of

separate handbrake shoes operating within a
“drum-in-disc” arrangement.

The cable-operated handbrake acts on

both rear brakes, to provide an independent
means of brake operation.

An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is

available on some models, and has many of
the components in common with the
conventional braking system. Further details
on ABS can be found later in this Chapter.

Precautions

When servicing any part of the system,

work carefully and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Use only genuine
Ford replacement parts, or at least those of
known good quality.

Warning: Brake components

MUST be renewed as axle sets -
NEVER renew components on
only one wheel, as uneven

braking may result. Dust created by wear
of brake pads/shoes may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and do
not inhale any of it. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake

parts - use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid,
oil or grease to contact the brake friction
surfaces.

Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; wash off immediately
and thoroughly in the case of
skin contact, and seek immediate

medical advice if any fluid is swallowed or
gets into the eyes. Certain types of
hydraulic fluid are inflammable, and may
ignite when allowed into contact with hot
components; when servicing the hydraulic
system, it is safest to assume that the fluid
IS inflammable, and to take precautions
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol
that is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is
also an effective paint stripper, and will
attack plastics; if any is spilt, it should be
washed off immediately, using copious
quantities of fresh water. Finally, it is
hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the
air) - old fluid may be contaminated and
unfit for further use. When topping-up or
renewing the fluid, always use the
recommended type, and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container.

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Master cylinder to servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

Servo unit to bracket/bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35 to 45

26 to 33

Drum/hub to rear axle flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56 to 76

41 to 56

Caliper anchor bracket to spindle carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50 to 66

37 to 49

Caliper piston housing to anchor bracket:

Bendix caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45 to 55

33 to 41

Teves caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

Rear caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50 to 66

37 to 49

ABS hydraulic unit to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 25

15 to 18

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 100

52 to 74

9•2 Braking system

1.1 Standard braking system layout and principal components

Front brake pads - renewal

Warning: Disc brake pads MUST
be renewed on both front wheels
at the same time - NEVER renew
the pads on only one wheel, as

uneven braking may result. The front brake
calipers will be of Bendix or Teves
manufacture, and if they or their component
parts require renewal, ensure that the
correct type is fitted. Dust created by wear
of the pads may contain asbestos, which is
a health hazard. Never blow it out with
compressed air, and do not inhale any of it.
DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to
clean brake parts - use brake cleaner or
methylated spirit only. DO NOT allow any
brake fluid, oil or grease to contact the
brake pads or disc. Also refer to the warning
in Section 1 concerning brake fluid.
1 Apply the handbrake, loosen off the front
roadwheel nuts, then jack up the front of the
car and support it on axle stands. Remove the
front roadwheels.

Bendix caliper

2 Extract the R-clip from the cross-pin, and
withdraw the pin from the base of the caliper
(see illustrations).
3 Undo the retaining nut, and release the
brake hose support bracket from the
suspension strut (see illustration).

4 Swing the caliper upwards to allow access
to the brake pads, and if necessary, tie the
caliper up in the raised position.
5 Withdraw the inner and outer brake pads
from the anchor bracket (see illustration). If
the old pads are to be refitted, ensure that
they are identified so that they can be
returned to their original positions.
6 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard. Inspect the dust cover around the
piston for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 3. Inspect
the anti-rattle plate for corrosion, and if
necessary renew it.
7 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston will need to be pushed back
into its housing, to allow for the extra pad
thickness - use a C-clamp to do this. Note
that, as the piston is pressed back into the
bore, it will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly
overflow. To avoid this possibility, a small
quantity of fluid should be syphoned from the
reservoir. If any brake fluid is spilt onto the
bodywork, hoses or adjacent components in
the engine compartment, wipe it clean without
delay.
8 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,

ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
9 Locate the inner and outer brake pads into
position in the caliper anchor bracket.
10 Lower the caliper down, insert the cross-
pin and fit the R-clip to secure.
11 Reconnect the brake hose bracket to the
suspension strut, making sure that the brake
hose is not twisted, stretched or distorted in
any way.
12 Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake.
13 Before lowering the vehicle, check the
that the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir is up to the Maximum level mark,
and top-up with the specified fluid type if
required. Depress the brake pedal a few times
to position the pads against the disc, then
recheck the fluid level in the reservoir and
further top-up the fluid level if necessary.
14 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque setting.
15 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period of
approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy braking.

Teves caliper

16 Hold the caliper support spring with a pair
of pliers, and prise it out of its location in the
caliper housing using a screwdriver (see
illustration).
17 Prise free the blanking plugs from the
caliper upper and lower mounting bolts.

Braking system 9•3

2.3 Undo the retaining nut (arrowed) and

release the brake hose support bracket

from the suspension strut

2.2B . . . and withdraw the pin from the

base of the caliper

2.2A Extract the R-clip from the

cross-pin . . .

2.17A Prise free the blanking plugs from

the caliper upper and lower mounting bolts

2.16 Hold the caliper support spring with a
pair of pliers, and prise it out of its location

in the caliper housing using a screwdriver

2.5 Withdraw the inner and outer brake

pads from the anchor bracket

3.3 Unscrew the brake hose-to-caliper

banjo union bolt (arrowed) and recover the

copper sealing washers

Unscrew the bolts, then withdraw the caliper
from the anchor bracket (see illustrations).
Suitably support the caliper to avoid straining
the brake hose.
18 Withdraw the pads from the caliper piston
housing or anchor bracket. The outer pad will
normally remain in position in the anchor
bracket, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper, and may need to be
carefully prised free (see illustrations). If the
old pads are to be refitted, ensure that they
are identified so that they can be returned to
their original positions.
19 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper
and piston, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard. Inspect the dust cover around the
piston for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 3.

20 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston will need to be pushed back into
its housing, to allow for the extra pad
thickness - use a C-clamp to do this. Note
that, as the piston is pressed back into the
bore, it will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly overflow.
To avoid this possibility, a small quantity of
fluid should be syphoned from the reservoir. If
any brake fluid is spilt onto the bodywork,
hoses or adjacent components in the engine
compartment, wipe it clean without delay.
21 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,
ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
22 Locate the inner and outer brake pad into
position in the caliper. Relocate the caliper
into position on the anchor bracket, and insert
the mounting bolts.
23 Tighten the mounting bolts to the
specified torque setting, and refit the blanking
plugs. Relocate the caliper support spring.
24 Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake.
25 Before lowering the vehicle, check the
that the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir is up to the Maximum level mark,
and top-up with the specified fluid type if
required. Depress the brake pedal a few times
to position the pads against the disc, then

recheck the fluid level in the reservoir and
further top-up the fluid level if necessary.
26 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque setting.
27 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period of
approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy braking.

Front brake caliper -
removal, overhaul and refitting

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, loosen off the front
roadwheel nuts on the side concerned, then
jack up the front of the vehicle and support it
on axle stands. Remove the appropriate
roadwheel.
2 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose leading to the front brake caliper. This
will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations (see illustration).

Bendix caliper

3 Unscrew the brake hose-to-caliper banjo
union bolt, and recover the copper sealing
washers (see illustration). Cover or plug the
open hydraulic unions to keep them clean.
4 Extract the R-clip from the cross-pin at the
base of the caliper, and withdraw the cross-
pin.

9•4 Braking system

3.2 Brake hose clamp fitted to the front

flexible brake hose

2.18B . . . and the inner pad from the

piston in the caliper

2.18A Withdraw the outer pad from the

anchor bracket . . .

2.17D . . . then withdraw the caliper from

the anchor bracket and disc

2.17C . . . unscrew and remove the

bolts . . .

2.17B Using a suitable Allen key

socket bit . . .

5 Prise free the blanking plug from the
caliper-to-anchor bracket pivot bolt at the top,
then support the caliper and unscrew the bolt.
6 Withdraw the caliper from anchor bracket
and brake pads, and remove it from the car.
7 To remove the caliper anchor bracket, first
withdraw the brake pads. If they are likely to
be re-used, mark them for identification (inner
and outer, right- or left-hand as applicable) to
ensure that they are installed in their original
locations when refitting.
8 Unscrew the two retaining bolts, and
withdraw the anchor bracket from the spindle
carrier (see illustration).

Teves caliper

9 Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible brake
hose (see illustration).
10 Remove the front brake pads as
described in Section 2.
11 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the brake hose from turning with the
other hand. Unscrew the caliper from the
hose, making sure that the hose is not twisted
unduly or strained. Once the caliper is
detached, cover or plug the open hydraulic
unions to keep them clean.
12 If required, the caliper anchor bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the spindle
carrier.

Overhaul

Bendix and Teves calipers

13 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away
all traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling
the dust, as it is a health hazard.
14 Remove the piston from its bore by
applying low air pressure (from a foot pump,
for example) into the caliper hydraulic fluid
hose port. In the event of a high-pressure air
hose being used, keep the pressure as low as
possible, to enable the piston to be extracted,
but to avoid the piston being ejected too
quickly and being damaged. Position a
suitable piece of wood between the caliper
frame and the piston to prevent this
possibility. Any fluid remaining in the caliper
will probably be ejected with the piston.
15 Using a suitable hooked tool, carefully
extract the dust cover from its groove in the

piston and the seal from its groove in the
caliper bore, but take care not to scratch or
damage the piston and/or the bore in the
caliper.
16 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit or
clean brake fluid, and wipe dry using a clean
lint-free cloth (see illustration). Inspect the
piston and caliper bore for signs of damage,
scuffing or corrosion. If these conditions are
evident, renew the caliper body assembly.
17 If the components are in satisfactory
condition, a repair kit which includes a new
seal and dust cover must be obtained.
18 Lubricate the piston bore in the caliper
and the seal with clean brake fluid. Carefully
fit the seal in the caliper bore, using fingers
only (no tools) to manipulate it into position in
its groove. When in position, check that it is
not distorted or twisted.
19 Locate the dust cover over the piston so
that its inner diameter is engaged in the piston
groove. Smear the area behind the piston
groove with the special lubricating grease
supplied in the repair kit, then insert the piston
into the caliper. Push the piston into position
in the bore, and simultaneously press the dust
cover into the piston housing so that it is
seated correctly (see illustration). Take
particular care not to distort or damage the
seal or cover as they are fitted.

Refitting

Bendix caliper

20 If the anchor bracket was removed, fit it
into position on the spindle carrier, and

tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
21 Locate the brake pads into the anchor
bracket. Where new pads are to be installed,
peel the protective backing paper from them.
If the old pads are to be refitted, ensure that
they are correctly located in their original
positions as noted during their removal.
22 Refit the caliper to the anchor bracket,
and loosely locate the caliper-to-anchor
bracket pivot bolt. Swing the unit down, and
insert the cross-pin and its R-clip. Tighten the
caliper-to-anchor bracket bolt to the specified
torque.
23 Unplug the hydraulic hose, and check that
the unions are clean. Reconnect the hose to
the caliper, using new copper washers if
necessary. Tighten the brake hose union
banjo bolt, then turn the steering from lock-to-
lock to ensure that the hose does not foul on
the wheel housing or suspension com-
ponents.
24 Top-up the hydraulic fluid level in the
reservoir, and bleed the brake circuit as
described in Section 17
25 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, and then tighten the wheel nuts to
the specified torque setting.

Teves caliper

26 If the anchor bracket was removed, fit it
into position on the spindle carrier, and
tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
27 Unplug the hydraulic hose, and check that
the unions are clean. Reconnect the caliper to
the hose so that the hose is not twisted or
strained. The hose union connection can be
fully tightened when the caliper is refitted.
28 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 2.
29 The brake hydraulic hose can now be fully
tightened. When secured, turn the steering
from lock-to-lock to ensure that the hose
does not foul on the wheel housing or
suspension components.
30 Top-up the hydraulic fluid level in the
reservoir, and bleed the brake circuit as
described in Section 17.
31 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, then tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque setting.

Braking system 9•5

3.9 Loosening the flexible brake hose at

the caliper

3.19 Piston and dust seal in position in the

caliper

3.16 Bendix front brake caliper

components showing the dust cover (A),

piston (B) and piston seal (C)

3.8 Brake caliper anchor bracket securing

bolts (arrowed)

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