Ford Orion. Manual - part 41

the brush wiring connectors and withdrawing
the brushes and their springs.
5 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-

moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
6 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

Bosch NC 14V 60-90A

7 Remove the three screws, and withdraw the
plastic end cover (see illustration).
8 Remove the two voltage regulator/brush
holder mounting screws.
9 Remove the regulator/brush holder from the
end frame (see illustration).
10 Measure the exposed length of each
brush, and compare it to the minimum length
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the
length of either brush is less than the
specified minimum, renew the assembly.

11 Make sure that each brush moves
smoothly in the brush holder.
12 Check that the slip rings - the ring of
copper on which each brush bears - are
clean. Wipe them with a solvent-moistened
cloth; if either appears scored or blackened,
take the alternator to a repair specialist for
advice.
13 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

Magneti-Marelli

14 Remove the three screws securing the
regulator/brush box unit on the rear face of
the alternator, partially withdraw the
assembly, detach the field connector, and
remove the unit from the alternator (see
illustrations).
15 If the brushes are worn beyond the
minimum allowable length specified, a new
regulator and brush box unit must be fitted;
the brushes are not available separately.
16 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
17 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

Mitsubishi

18 Hold the pulley nut stationary using an 8
mm Allen key, unscrew the pulley nut and
remove the washer (see illustration).

5•8 Engine electrical systems

14.14B  Regulator/brush box retaining

screws on the Magneti-Marelli alternator

14.14A  Exploded view of the Magneti-Marelli alternator

14.9  Remove the regulator/brush holder

from the end frame (Bosch NC alternator)

14.7  Remove the three screws, and

withdraw the plastic end cover (Bosch NC

alternator)

14.4  Measuring the brush lengths (Bosch

K1 alternator)

14.3C  . . . withdraw the brush

box/regulator unit (Bosch K1 alternator)

A   Pulley
B   Fan
C   Drive end housing
D   Drive end bearing
E   Rotor
F   Through-bolt
H   Brushbox/regulator
J   Slip ring end

bearing

K   Slip ring end

housing

L   Rectifier diode pack
M  Stator
N   Suppressor

19 Withdraw the pulley, cooling fan, spacer
and dust shield from the rotor shaft.
20 Mark the relative fitted positions of the
front housing, stator and rear housing (to
ensure correct re-alignment when
reassembling). Unscrew the through-bolts
and remove the front housing from the rotor
shaft, followed by the dust seal and the thin
spacer (see illustrations).
21 Remove the rotor from the rear housing
and the stator. If difficulty is experienced, heat
the rear housing with a 200-watt soldering
iron for three or four minutes (see
illustration).
22 Unbolt the rectifier/brush box and stator
assembly from the rear housing (see
illustration).
23 Unsolder the stator and brush box from
the rectifier, using the very minimum of heat.
Use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to reduce

the heat transference to the diodes
(overheating may cause diode failure).
24 Renew the brushes if they are worn down
to, or beyond, the minimum specified length.
Unsolder the brush wires at the points

Engine electrical systems  5•9

14.20A  Exploded view of the Mitsubishi A5T alternator

14.18  Pulley nut removal on the Mitsubishi

alternator

14.22  Rectifier/brush box (1) and regulator

unit (3) retaining nuts on the Mitsubishi

alternator. Note that cap (2) covers the

regulator nut

14.21  Using a soldering iron to heat the

slip ring end housing for removal of the

rotor from the rear housing on the

Mitsubishi alternator

14.20B  Exploded view of the AOO2T Mitsubishi alternator

A   Pulley nut
B   Spring washer
C   Pulley
D   Through-bolt
E   Retainer plate screw
F   Drive end housing
G   Bearing
H   Bearing retaining plate

J   Spacer
K   Rotor
L   Spacer
M  Slip ring end bearing
N   Plug
P   Cap
Q   Terminal insulator
R   Slip ring end housing

S   Rectifier
T   Dust cover
V   Regulator
W  Brush spring
X   Brush
Y   Regulator screw
Z   Stator

5

A   Pulley
B   Fan
C   Thick spacer
D   Through-bolt
E   Dust shield
F   Drive end unit
G   Bearing
H   Bearing retainer
J   Dust cap
K   Thin spacer
L   Rotor
M  Seal
N   Bearing
O   Commutator end
P   Diode pack
R   Brush box
S   Stator

indicated (see illustration), then solder the
new brush leads so that the wear limit line
projects 2 to 3 mm from the end of the holder
(see illustration).
25 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
26 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Insert a piece of wire through the access hole
in the rear housing to hold the brushes in the
retracted position as the rotor is refitted (see
illustration). Do not forget to release the
brushes when assembled.

15 Starting system - general

information and precautions

General information

The sole function of the starting system is

to turn over the engine quickly enough to
allow it to start.

The starting system consists of the battery,

the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the
wires connecting them. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.

When the ignition key is turned to position

“III”, the starter solenoid is actuated through
the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid
then connects the battery to the starter. The
battery supplies the electrical energy to the
starter motor, which does the actual work of
cranking the engine, via the ring gear on the
flywheel/driveplate.

The starter motor on a vehicle equipped

with automatic transmission can be operated
only when the selector lever is in Park or
Neutral (“P” or “N”).

If the alarm system is armed or activated,

the starter motor cannot be operated. The
same applies with the engine immobiliser
system (where fitted).

Precautions

Always observe the following precautions

when working on the starting system:
a)

Excessive cranking of the starter motor can
overheat it, and cause serious damage.
Never operate the starter motor for more
than 15 seconds at a time without pausing

to allow it to cool for at least two minutes.
Excessive starter operation will also risk
unburned fuel collecting in the catalytic
converter’s element (where applicable),
causing it to overheat when the engine
does start (see Chapter 6).

b)

The starter is connected directly to the
battery, and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or shorted-out.

c)

Always detach the lead from the negative
terminal of the battery before working on
the starting system (see Section 1).

16 Starting system - testing

2

Note:  Before diagnosing starter problems,
make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and ensure that the alarm/engine immobiliser
system is not activated.
1 If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that, on
automatic transmission models, the selector
lever is in Park or Neutral (“P” or “N”).
2 Make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and that all leads, both at the battery and
starter solenoid terminals, are clean and
secure.
3 If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when
applicable) the reduction gears in the starter
motor may be slipping, in which case the
starter motor must be overhauled or renewed.
(Other possibilities are that the starter motor
mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth
are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring
gear.)
4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to
click when the switch is actuated, the battery
is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the
solenoid itself is defective.
6 To check the solenoid, connect a fused
jumper lead between the battery (+) and the
ignition switch terminal (the small terminal) on
the solenoid. If the starter motor now
operates, the solenoid is OK, and the problem
is in the ignition switch, selector lever position

sensor (automatic transmission) or in the
wiring.
7 If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove it (see Section 17). The brushes and
commutator may be checked (see Sec-
tion 18), but if the fault persists, the motor
should be renewed, or taken to an auto-
electrician for testing and repair.
8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an
abnormally-slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged, and that all terminal
connections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9 If the engine is known to be OK, and with
the correct viscosity oil, but the cranking
speed is still slow, the solenoid contacts are
burned, the motor is faulty, or there is a poor
internal connection.

17 Starter motor - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1).
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. If
the engine has been recently run, take care
against burning yourself on the exhaust
system during the following operations.
3 Undo the two retaining nuts, and remove
the starter motor heat shield (where fitted).
4 Prise free the cap, if fitted, then unscrew the
nuts to disconnect the wiring from the
starter/solenoid terminals. Where applicable,
disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring multi-plug
from the locating bracket (see illustrations).
5 Unscrew and remove the starter motor
retaining bolts at the transmission/clutch
housing and, where applicable, also unbolt
and detach the support bracket. Withdraw the
starter motor from its mounting, and remove it
from the vehicle (see illustrations).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the wiring is securely reconnected
to the starter motor (and solenoid) and is
routed clear of the exhaust downpipe. 

5•10 Engine electrical systems

14.26  Use a length of wire rod to hold

brushes in the retracted position when

reassembling the rotor to the housing on

the Mitsubishi alternator

14.24B  Fitted position of new brush on a

Mitsubishi alternator

14.24A  Unsoldering a brush wire on a

Mitsubishi alternator

Engine electrical systems  5•11

17.4C  Starter motor and wiring

connections on a Zetec engine

17.4B  Starter motor and wiring

connections on a CVH engine

17.4A  Starter motor and wiring

connections on an HCS engine

18.2A  Exploded view of the Bosch DM starter motor

1  Solenoid yoke
2  Return spring
3  Solenoid armature
4  Actuating arm
5  Drive pinion and clutch unit
6  Drive end housing
7  Solenoid retaining screws
8  C-clip
9  Thrust collar

10  Armature

11  Rubber block
12  Yoke
13  Brush plate
14  Commutator end plate
15  Seal
16  Shim
17  C-clip
18  Commutator end plate cap
19  Securing screw
20  Through-bolt

18.2B  Exploded view of the Bosch DW starter motor

1  Yoke
2  Return spring
3  Solenoid armature
4  Actuating arm
5  Drive end housing
6  Drive pinion and clutch
7  Spacer
8  Ring gear and carrier
9  Output shaft and planet gear unit

10  Circlip

11  Through-bolt
12  Cap
13  C-clip
14  Shim
15  Commutator endplate
16  Brush plate
17  Yoke
18  Rubber block
19  Armature
20  Retaining plate

17.5B  Starter motor removal (CVH engine

shown)

17.5A  Starter motor support bracket bolt

17.4D  Oxygen sensor wiring multi-plug

connector and location bracket

5