Ford Orion. Manual - part 24

14 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (see
Chapter 8).
15 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above), disconnect the engine wiring
connectors as follows:
a)

The multi-plug from the DIS ignition coil
(see illustration).

b)

The radio interference suppressor from
the DIS ignition coil (see illustration).

c)

The reversing light switch multi-plug (see
illustration).

d)

The engine main wiring loom multi-plug
behind the DIS ignition coil.

e)

The crankshaft speed/position sensor and
vehicle speed sensor multi-plugs.

f)

The oxygen sensor multi-plug.

16 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,
and lift it clear.
17 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
18 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 6
above) and catching as much as possible of
the escaping coolant in the drain tray,
disconnect the cooling system hoses and
pipes as follows - refer to Chapter 3 for further
details, if required:
a)

The coolant hoses at the thermostat
housing.

b)

The coolant hose at the metal cross pipe
lower connection.

c)

The radiator top and bottom hoses.

19 Undo the nut securing the power steering
pump pressure pipe clip to the timing belt
cover. Release the unions and clips, and
disconnect the pump pressure and return
lines. Collect the fluid in a suitable container,
and plug the disconnected unions. Lift the
power steering fluid reservoir out of its
bracket, and move it clear of the engine.
20 Apply the handbrake, then raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
then remove the front roadwheels.
21 Refer to Chapter 5 if necessary, and
disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
and alternator.
22 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
connector.
23 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring
and disconnect the selector cable (see
Chapter 7B). Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
24 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the gearchange
linkage and transmission support rod from the
rear of the transmission - make alignment
marks as they are disconnected (see
illustrations).
25 On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the

manifold (see illustration). Undo the nuts
securing the catalytic converter to the rear
part of the exhaust system, and remove the
converter and downpipe assembly.
27 Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, refer to Chapter 3 and
disconnect any components that are likely to
impede removal of the engine/transmission
from below. 

Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.

28 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
29 Noting the direction of fitting, unscrew the
retaining nut and withdraw the Torx-type
clamp bolt securing the lower suspension arm
to the spindle carrier on each side.
30 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints. The outer joint must not
be angled in excess of 45

∞

, the inner joint no

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•13

6.15C  . . . and the reversing light switch

6.15B  . . . the radio interference

suppressor . . .

6.15A  Disconnect the wiring multi-plug

(arrowed) from the ignition coil ..

6.26  Disconnect the exhaust system front

downpipe from the manifold

6.24B  . . . and transmission support rod

6.24A  Disconnect the gearchange 

linkage . . .

2D

more than 20º. Refer to Chapter 8 for further
details if necessary.
31 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
32 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 30 and 31, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
33 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter
1 if necessary.
34 Undo the two upper bolts and one lower
bolt, and remove the right-hand engine
mounting support brace.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 From above, undo the two bolts securing
the left-hand rear mounting to the
transmission bracket.
37 Undo the two nuts securing the right-hand
mounting to the body adjacent to the
suspension strut tower.
38 Undo the two bolts securing the left-hand
front mounting to the body side member.
39 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case.
40 Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle (see illustration).
41 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter
7, separate the transmission from the engine.
42 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is

carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

43 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a)

Refer to the applicable Chapters and
Sections as for removal.

b)

Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.

c)

Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when
reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.

d)

Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.

e)

Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.

f)

Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and
transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.

g)

Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.

h)

Bleed the power steering system with
reference to Chapter 10.

44 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 22 before restarting the engine.

7

Engine overhaul -
dismantling sequence

1 The engine dismantling and reassembly
tasks are made easier if the engine is
mounted on a portable engine stand. These
stands can be hired from a tool hire shop.
Before mounting the engine on a stand, the
flywheel/driveplate must first be removed, to
enable the engine-to-stand fixing bolts to be
fitted.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably
supported on a strong workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
3 If a reconditioned engine is to be fitted, all
external components of the original engine
must be removed in order to transfer them to
the replacement unit (just as they will if you
are doing a complete engine rebuild). These
components include the following:
a)

Alternator and mounting brackets.

b)

DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), HT leads and spark plugs.

c)

The thermostat and housing cover.

d)

Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.

e)

Inlet and exhaust manifolds.

f)

Oil filter.

g)

Fuel pump.

h)

Engine mountings.

i)

Flywheel/driveplate.

j)

Water pump.

Note:

When removing the external

components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items.
4 If you are obtaining a short motor (which
consists of the cylinder block, crankshaft,
pistons and connecting rods all assembled),
the cylinder head, sump, oil pump and timing
chain/belt will have to be removed also.
5 If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order:
a)

Inlet and exhaust manifolds.

b)

Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.

c)

Cylinder head.

d)

Flywheel/driveplate.

e)

Sump.

f)

Oil pump.

g)

Pistons (with connecting rods).

h)

Crankshaft.

i)

Camshaft and tappets (HCS engine).

6 Before starting the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools for the jobs to tackled.
Refer to the introductory pages at the start of
this manual for further information.

8

Cylinder head - dismantling

4

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and
from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the
fact that some specialist tools are required for
the dismantling and inspection procedures,
and new components may not be readily
available (refer to Section 1), it may be more
practical and economical for the home
mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head,
rather than to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original head.

HCS engine

1 Unscrew and remove the five retaining
bolts, and lift off the inlet manifold (complete
with carburettor). Remove the inlet manifold-
to-cylinder head gasket.
2 Unscrew and remove the eight retaining
nuts, and lift off the exhaust manifold from the
cylinder head. Remove the exhaust manifold-
to-cylinder head gasket.
3 Unscrew and remove the temperature
gauge sender unit.
4 To remove the valve springs and valves
from the cylinder head, a standard valve
spring compressor will required. Fit the spring
compressor to the first valve and spring to be
removed. Assuming that all of the valves and
springs are to be removed, start by
compressing the No 1 valve (nearest the
timing cover end) spring. Take care not to

2D•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

6.40  Removing the engine/transmission

unit from under the car

damage the valve stem with the compressor,
and do not over-compress the spring, or the
valve stem may bend. When tightening the
compressor, it may be found that the spring
retainer does not release and the collets are
then difficult to remove. In this instance,
remove the compressor, then press a piece of
tube (or a socket of suitable diameter) so that
it does not interfere with the removal of the
collets, against the retainer’s outer rim. Tap
the tube (or socket) with a hammer to unsettle
the components.
5 Refit the compressor, and wind it in to
enable the collets to be extracted (see
illustration).
6 Loosen off the compressor, and remove the
retainer and spring. Withdraw the valve from
the cylinder head (see illustrations).
7 Prise up and remove the valve stem seal
(see illustration).
8 Repeat the removal procedure with each of
the remaining seven valve assemblies in turn.
As they are removed, keep the individual
valves and their components together, and in
their respective order of fitting, by placing
them in a separate labelled bag (see
illustration).

CVH engine

9 Remove the camshaft, rocker arms and
tappets as described in Part B of this Chapter,
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described.

10 Valve removal should commence with 
No 1 valve (nearest the timing belt end).
11 Compress the valve spring of the No 1
valve using a suitable valve compressor. A
conventional valve spring compressor will be
ideal, but if preferred, a forked tool (Part No
21-097) can be purchased or fabricated. The
tool engages on the rocker stud, and a nut
and distance piece are used to compress it
and the valve spring (see illustration).
12 Compress the valve spring (and upper
retainer) just enough to enable the split collets
to be released from the groove in the top of
the valve stem, then separate and extract the
split collets from the valve. Do not compress
the spring any further than is necessary, or the
valve stem may bend. If the valve spring
retainer does not release from the collets as
the spring is compressed, remove the
compressor, and position a piece of suitable
tube over the end of the retainer, so that it
does not impinge on the collets. Place a small
block of wood under the valve head (with the
head resting face down on the workbench),
then tap the end of the tube with a hammer.
Now refit the compressor tool, and compress
the valve spring. The collets should release.
13 Extract the split collets, then slowly
unscrew, release and remove the compressor.
14 Withdraw the upper retainer and the valve
spring from the valve stem, then remove the
valve from the underside of the cylinder head.
Use a suitable screwdriver to prise free and

remove the valve stem oil seal from the guide.
15 Remove the lower retainer.
16 Repeat the removal procedure with each
of the remaining valve assemblies in turn. As
they are removed, keep the valves and their
associated components together, and in the
originally-installed order, by placing them in a
separate labelled bag (see illustration 8.8).

Zetec engine

17 Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets (Part C of this Chapter, Section 13),
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described.
18 Remove the cylinder head (Part C of this
Chapter, Section 14).
19 Using a valve spring compressor,
compress each valve spring in turn until the
split collets can be removed. A special valve
spring compressor will be required, to reach
into the deep wells in the cylinder head
without risk of damaging the hydraulic tappet
bores; such compressors are now widely
available from most good motor accessory
shops. Release the compressor, and lift off
the spring upper seat and spring (see
illustrations).
20 If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring upper seat refuses
to free and expose the split collets, gently tap
the top of the tool, directly over the upper
seat, with a light hammer. This will free the
seat.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•15

8.6B  . . . followed by the valve

8.6A  Remove the valve spring retainer and

spring . . .

8.5  Compress the valve spring to remove

the collets

8.11  Compressing a valve spring using a

forked type compressor

8.8  Use a labelled plastic bag to store and

identify valve components

8.7  Prise off the valve stem oil seal

2D

21 Withdraw the valve through the
combustion chamber. If it binds in the guide
(won’t pull through), push it back in, and de-
burr the area around the collet groove with a
fine file or whetstone; take care not to mark
the hydraulic tappet bores.
22 Ford recommend the use of their service
tool 21-160 to extract the valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seals; while this is almost
indispensable if the seals are to be removed
without risk of (extremely expensive) damage
to the cylinder head, we found that a
serviceable substitute can be made from a
strong spring of suitable size. Screw on the
tool or spring so that it bites into the seal, then
draw the seal off the valve guide (see
illustrations).
23 It is essential that the valves are kept
together with their collets, spring seats and
springs, and in their correct sequence (unless
they are so badly worn that they are to be

renewed). If they are going to be kept and
used again, place them in a labelled polythene
bag or similar small container (see illus-
tration 8.8). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to
the timing belt end of the engine.
24 If the oil-retaining valve is to be removed
(to flush out the cylinder head oil galleries
thoroughly), seek the advice of a Ford dealer
as to how it can be extracted; it may be that
the only course of action involves destroying
the valve as follows. Screw a self-tapping
screw into its ventilation hole, and use the
screw to provide purchase with which the
valve can be drawn out; a new valve must be
purchased and pressed into place on
reassembly 

(see illustration).

9

Cylinder head and valve
components - cleaning and
inspection

4

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1. A Ford
dealer, or a good engine reconditioning
specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be
able to suggest alternatives which will enable
you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.
1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped,
and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head gasket surface is
not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be possible to re-surface it.

2D•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

9.6  Check the cylinder head gasket

surfaces for warpage, in the planes

indicated (A to G). Try to slip a feeler

gauge under the precision straight edge

(see the Specifications for the maximum

distortion allowed, and use a feeler blade

of that thickness)

8.24  Cylinder head oil-retaining valve

(arrowed)

8.22B  . . . can be replaced by home-made

tool if suitable spring can be found

8.22A   Ford service tool in use to remove

valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals . . .

8.19C  . . . so that both valve split collets

can be removed from the valve’s stem -

small magnetic pick-up tool prevents loss

of small metal components on removal

and refitting

8.19B  . . . or purpose-built special version,

is required to compress valve springs

without damaging cylinder head . . .

8.19A  Standard valve spring compressor

modified as shown . . .