BBM MZ SERIES ZERO-TURN MOWER. Manual - part 4

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4

SECTION 8:

 MOVING INOPERABLE MOWER

8.1  Do not tow machine. Use a winch to load on a trailer for transporting.

8.

2

   MZ Models are equipped with two neutral engage/disengage arms, located at the rear of 

the mower protruding from the frame and under the muffler. By pulling the arms out, the 
mower can be put in a neutral position. Return the arms to the “forward position” for normal 
operation.

Your Bad Boy Mower Weighs: 

MZ SERIES: 

585—602 lbs

*** Weights fluctuate with the addition of accessories. 

8.

3

    As you can see by the weights of the machines, you shouldn’t ever try to push or pull a Bad 

Boy Mower by hand. This could cause serious bodily injury. 

8.

4   Hopefully, you’ll never need to use this section of the manual. However, if you do, use 

extreme caution when moving machine!

SECTION 9:

 INSTRUMENTATION 

9 .1 

Electronic Hour Meter—Registers Hour increments up to 9,999.9 total hours. This meter 
records the cumulative time the engine is running. (This is

 

standard on the MZ Magnum 

and is an option on

 the MZ Series.)

PAGE 15

SECTION 10:

 MOWER BLADE MAINTENANCE

10.1  Check mower blades after each use. This is essential for maintaining well-groomed turf. Keep 

the blades sharp. If a dull blade is used for cutting, the grass will tear rather than cut. This 
could damage the grass leaving a brown frayed top on the grass within a few hours. A dull 
blade will also require more power from the engine.

10.2  NEVER attempt to straighten a bent blade by heating. NEVER attempt to weld a cracked 

blade. The blades can break and cause serious injury or death.

10.3  NEVER work with blades while engine is running or deck clutch is engaged. 
10.4  ALWAYS place deck clutch in DISENGAGE position while performing maintenance. 
10.5  Use blocks when you MUST work under mower. 
10.6  ALWAYS wear thick gloves when handling blades.
10.7  ALWAYS check for blade damage if mower strikes rock, branch, or other objects that could 

potentially damage the blade.

(REMEMBER: NEVER CHECK BLADE WHILE ENGINE IS ON!

NEVER CHECK BLADES WHILE BLADES ARE ENGAGED!)

SECTION 11:

 

EQUIPMENT LUBRICATION

11.1 Park the machine on a level surface and disengage the blade control switch.

11.2  Move the motion control levers outward to the neutral position, engage parking brake, stop 

the engine, remove the key, and wait for all moving parts to stop before leaving the operating 
position.

11.3  Grease Type: NGLI grade #2 multi-purpose gun grease. 
11.4  Clean the grease fittings with a cloth. Scrape any paint off the front of the fitting(s).
11.5 Connect a grease gun to each fitting. 

Pump grease into the fitting until grease seepage is 

         observed. Be mindful of over-pressurization. Do not force the lever arm if there is strong 
         back pressure as this can lead to reduced life of the component(s)

. Wipe up excess grease.

11.6  Refer to service manual section for grease fitting locations.

PAGE 16

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BLADE

Essentially there are only TWO basic styles of mowing blades used or approved for use on our current 
products: 

1) The standard style of mowing blade is essentially designed for cutting grass and effectively discharging

the clippings out from the deck to fall onto the lawn or to be captured in a grass collection system.
Standard blades are also referred to as “2-in-1” (discharging & bagging ) or “high-lift” blades (because
they are designed to create a higher-lifting airflow).

2) Mulching blades generally have a more curved style surface and frequently include extra cutting

surfaces along the blade edges. These blades may also come in a “+” design (which is actually two
individual blades arranged in a perpendicular fashion to enhance mulching). The “+” blades are usually
found on older style mowers; newer ones utilize blades with more advanced mulching technology.
Mulching blades may also be referred to as “3-in-1” (mulching, discharging & bagging) or “all-purpose”
blades.

Bear in mind that the re-circulating airflow design of 3/1 blades makes them less efficient at discharging 
grass clippings than a standard 2/1 blade. As with most all-purpose tools, there is some give and take as 
opposed to using a tool designed for a more specific purpose.

If you’re experiencing less-than-desired cutting or discharging performance with a 3/1 blade, you may want 
to check into using a 2/1 blade. Conversely, if you’re using a 2/1 blade and want to mulch clippings, you 
should see about the availability of mulching blades or a mulching kit.*

The type of blade installed on a new mower is a decision the retailer makes for each model of mower, based 
on the expected needs of most customers. If you’re unsure of which blade is on a particular model, inspect 
the blade. Blades have part numbers stamped into them. Then compare these part numbers with the unit’s 
Operator’s Manual or Parts List.

It is true there are many other styles of blades available. But since we don’t manufacture or recommend 
using these other aftermarket styles, we will leave them out of this discussion. Should you want more 
information on special application or aftermarket blades, you should contact the companies that make these 
products. NOTE: Customers using non-OEM blades do so at their own risk. The use of unapproved (non-
OEM) blades may void any or all of the mower and engine factory warranties.

* MULCHING KITS – These generally consist of mulching blades and a mulching plug (which closes off
the discharge opening to keep the clippings contained under the deck for re-cutting) plus any necessary
hardware for installation. Please check with your parts distributor regarding the contents of a particular
mulching kit.

PAGE 17

MOWING TIPS:

• Mow header strips at the ends of the lawn and around flower beds first. Make them wide enough that you can turn the mower

around in the already mown section. Then mow back and forth between these header strips overlapping each lap by about 1/8 the
width of the mower’s deck.

• Don’t cut your grass too short, particular for cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks

better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.

• Don’t remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and you

just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3 or so
days between cuttings.

•

NEVER SCALP YOUR LAWN. Scalping severely damages the root system to such a degree that it may die.

• Avoid mowing when the grass is wet or when it’s dark
• Avoid throwing grass clippings into the street and driveway where they can be washed into the sewer system. After mowing, clean

up driveway and walkways.

• When mowing remove only a third with each cutting (except for the first mowing of the season when it’s ok to remove more). You

can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion, grass
clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing, especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the direction

ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower’s blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several blades

around so you’ll always have a sharp one on hand. Sharp blades cut the grass cleanly and help mulch clippings into small pieces
which break down quickly.

• Don’t forget to change your mower’s oil at least once during the mowing season. For brand new mowers, change the oil after

about 5 hours of operation during the initial break-in period.

• At the end of the mowing season use a fuel stabilizer in the remaining gasoline
• In the spring, don’t use that old gas unless you properly used a fuel stabilizer, it can cause a number of problems. Better to use

fresh gasoline to begin the new mowing season.

•

Leaf blade A demonstrates what a leaf blade should look like
after mowing with a sharp blade.

•

Leaf blade B demonstrates a leaf blade that was injured by a
dull mower blade.

•

Leaf blade C was cut by the mower but indicates that the
mower blade is not sharp enough. The shredded white tissue
protruding from the leaf blades C and D is the vascular tissue
of the plant.

•

Leaf blade D has been mown for quite some time with a dull mower blade.

To bag or mulch?

Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup or increase the chances of disease. If you mow your lawn at the right height, 

without removing any more than 1/3 of it’s total height, clippings will quickly breakdown without a trace. These clippings 
contribute additional nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil and supply it with additional organic materials. Clippings from a 
1000 sq. ft. lawn can add as much as 1 - 2 pounds of nitrogen back into the soil.

If you have a compost pile, then you may want to bag your clippings occasionally to add much needed green-matter to the 

compost pile. Make sure it is mixed thoroughly with brown matter to avoid a strong ammonia odor. 

DO NOT COMPOST 

CLIPPINGS after applying any weed control or weed-feed type product. Before adding clippings to the compost pile wait at 
least 3 mowings after these products have been applied.