Harley Davidson 1999-2005 Harley Dyna Models. Repair Manual

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CHAPTER TWO

2. Cover the spark plug hole with a clean shop cloth

to lessen the chance of gasoline vapors being emit-

ted from the hole.

3. Insert the spark plug (Figure 3), or spark tester

(Figure 4), into its plug cap and ground the spark

plug base against the cylinder head. Position the

spark plug so the electrode is visible.

NOTE

If a spark plug is used, perform the

procedure with a new spark plug.

WARNING

Mount the spark plug, or tester, away

from the spark plug hole in the cylin-

der so the spark cannot ignite the gas-

oline vapors in the cylinder. If the

engine is flooded, do not perform this

test. The firing of the spark plug can

ignite fuel that is ejected through the

spark plug hole.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

WARNING

Do not hold the spark plug, wire or

connector, or a serious electrical

shock may result.

Fouled spark plug(s).

5. Turn the engine over with the electric starter. A

Improperly adjusted enrichener valve.

crisp blue spark should be evident across the spark

Intake manifold air leak.

plug electrode or spark tester terminals. If there is

A plugged fuel tank filler cap.

strong sunlight on the plug, shade the plug by hand

to better see the spark.

Clogged carburetor fuel line.

6. If the spark is good, check for one or more of the

Contaminated fuel system.

following possible malfunctions:

An improperly adjusted carburetor.

a. Obstructed fuel line or fuel filter.

A defective ignition module.

b. Low compression or engine damage.

A defective ignition coil.

c. Flooded engine.

7. If the spark is weak or if there is no spark, refer to

10. Damaged ignition coil primary and secondary

Engine is Difficult to Start in this chapter.

wires (Figure 5).

11. Incorrect ignition timing.

NOTE

12. Low engine compression.

If the engine backfires during starting

attempts, the ignition timing may be

13. Engine oil too heavy (winter temperatures).

incorrect due to a defective ignition

14. Discharged battery.

component. Refer to Ignition Timing

in Chapter Three for more informa-

15. A defective starter motor.

tion.

16. Loose or corroded starter and/or battery cables.

17. A loose ignition sensor and module electrical

Engine is Difficult to Start

connector.

Check for one or more of the following possible

18. Incorrect pushrod length (intake and exhaust

malfunctions:

valve pushrods interchanged).

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TROUBLESHOOTING

7. Incorrect carburetor float level.

Engine Runs but Misfires

1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs.

2. Damaged spark plug cables.

3. Incorrect ignition timing.

4. Defective ignition components.

5. An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve.

6. Obstructed fuel filter.

7. Clogged carburetor jets.

8. Loose battery connection.

Engine Will Not Crank

9. Wiring or connector damage.

10. Water or other contaminants in fuel.

Check for one or more of the following possible

11. Weak or damaged valve springs.

malfunctions:

12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing.

1. Ignition switch turned OFF.

13. A damaged valve(s).

2. A defective ignition switch.

14. Dirty electrical connections.

3. Run switch in OFF position.

15. Intake manifold or carburetor air leak.

4. A defective engine run switch.

16. A plugged carburetor vent hose.

5. Loose or corroded starter and battery cables (so-

17. Plugged fuel tank vent system.

lenoid chatters).

6. Discharged or defective battery.

Engine Overheating

7. A defective starter motor.

8. A defective starter solenoid.

1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selection.

9. A defective starter shaft pinion gear.

2. Incorrect ignition timing or defective ignition

10. Slipping overrunning clutch assembly.

system components.

11. A seized piston(s).

3. Improper spark plug heat range.

12. Seized crankshaft bearings.

4. Damaged or blocked cooling fins.

13. A broken connecting rod.

5. Low oil level.

6. Oil not circulating properly.

ENGINE PERFORMANCE

7. Leaking valves.

8. Heavy engine carbon deposits.

In the following check list, it is assumed that the

engine runs, but is not operating at peak perfor-

Engine Runs Roughly with

mance. This will serve as a starting point from

Excessive Exhaust Smoke

which to isolate a performance malfunction.

1. Clogged air filter element.

Fouled Spark Plugs

2. Incorrect rich carburetor adjustment.

3. Choke not operating correctly.

If the spark plugs continually foul, check for the

4. Water or other contaminants in fuel.

following:

5. Clogged fuel line.

1. Severely contaminated air filter element.

6. Spark plugs fouled.

2. Incorrect spark plug heat range. See Chapter

7. A defective ignition coil.

Three.

8. A defective ignition module or sensor(s).

3. Rich fuel mixture.

9. Loose or defective ignition circuit wire.

4. Worn or damaged piston rings.

10. Short circuits from damaged wire insulation.

5. Worn or damaged valve guide oil seals.

11. Loose battery cable connections.

6. Excessive valve stem-to-guide clearance.

12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing.

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CHAPTER TWO

STARTER/SOLENOID

VOLTAGE DROP TEST

TERMINALS

(SOLENOID CIRCUIT)

M terminal

C terminal

0.1 amp

Start switch

Field wire

0.1 amp

20 amp

Relay

Ignition circuit

breaker

VOM

Ignition switch

Starte

Main circuit

50 terminal

breaker

Solenoid

150 amp

Battery

13. Intake manifold or air filter air leaks.

150 amp

Starter

Engine Loses Power

1. Incorrect carburetor (lean) adjustment.

2. Engine overheating.

3. Incorrect ignition timing.

4. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs.

ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM

5. An obstructed muffler.

6. Dragging brake(s).

The starting system consists of the battery, starter

motor, starter relay, solenoid, start switch, starter

Engine Lacks Acceleration

mechanism and related wiring.

When the ignition switch is turned on and the

1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment.

start button is pushed in, current is transmitted from

2. Clogged fuel line.

the battery to the starter relay. When the relay is ac-

3. Incorrect ignition timing.

tivated, it in turn activates the starter solenoid that

4. Dragging brake(s).

mechanically engages the starter with the engine.

Starting system problems are most often related

to a loose or corroded electrical connection.

Valve Train Noise

Refer to Figure 6 for starter motor and solenoid

terminal identification.

1. A bent pushrod(s).

2. A defective hydraulic lifter(s).

3. A bent valve.

Troubleshooting Preparation

4. Rocker arm seizure or damage

(binding

shaft).

Before troubleshooting the starting system, check

5. Worn or damaged camshaft gear bushing(s).

the following:

6. Worn or damaged camshaft gear(s).

1. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

6. The spark plugs are in good condition and prop-

erly gapped.

7. The ignition system is working correctly.

Voltage Drop Test

Before performing the steps listed under Trouble-

shooting, perform this voltage drop test. These steps

will help find weak or damaged electrical compo-

nents that may be causing the starting system prob-

lem. A voltmeter is required to test voltage drop.

1. To check voltage drop in the solenoid circuit,

connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive

battery terminal; connect the negative voltmeter

VOLTAGE DROP TEST

lead to the solenoid (Figure 7).

(STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT)

NOTE

0.1 amp

The voltmeter lead must not touch the

Start switch

starter-to-solenoid terminal. Figure 8

0.1 amp

shows the solenoid terminal with the

20 amp

starter/solenoid removed to better il-

Relay

lustrate the step.

Ignition circuit

breaker

2. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter

VOM

button while reading the voltmeter scale. Note the

Ignition switch

following:

a. The circuit is operating correctly if the volt-

Main circuit

meter reading is 2 volts or less. A voltmeter

breaker

reading of 12 volts indicates an open circuit.

b. A voltage drop of more than 2 volts shows a

problem in the solenoid circuit.

Solenoid

150 amp

c. If the voltage drop reading is correct, con-

Battery

150 amp

tinue with Step 3.

3. To check the starter motor ground circuit, con-

Starter

nect the negative voltmeter lead to the negative bat-

tery terminal; connect the positive voltmeter lead to

the starter motor housing (Figure 9).

4. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter

button while reading the voltmeter scale. The volt-

age drop must not exceed 0.2 volts. If it does, check

the ground connections between the meter leads.

Battery cables are the proper size and length. Re-

5. If the problem is not found, refer to Trouble-

place damaged or undersized cables.

shooting in the following section.

3. All electrical connections are clean and tight.

High resistance caused from dirty or loose connec-

NOTE

Steps 3 and 4 check the voltage drop

tors can affect voltage and current levels.

across the starter motor ground cir-

4. The wiring harness is in good condition, with no

cuit. Repeat this test to check any

worn or frayed insulation or loose harness sockets.

ground circuit in the starting circuit.

5. The fuel tank is filled with an adequate supply of

To do so, leave the negative voltmeter

fresh gasoline.

lead connected to the battery and con-

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CHAPTER TWO

nect the positive voltmeter lead to the

ground in question.

STARTER JUMP TEST

Troubleshooting

The basic starter related troubles are:

1. Starter motor does not spin.

2. Starter motor spins but does not engage.

3. The starter motor will not disengage after the

start button is released.

4. Loud grinding noises when starter motor turns.

5. Starter motor stalls or spins too slowly.

Perform the steps listed under Troubleshooting

Preparation. The following test results must be

Battery

within 1/2 volt of battery voltage.

CAUTION

Never operate the starter motor for

more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow

C Terminal

the starter to cool before reusing it.

Failing to allow the starter motor to

50 Terminal

cool after continuous starting at-

tempts can damage the starter.

Starter motor does not spin

1. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter

button while listening for a click at the starter relay

in the electrical panel. Turn the ignition switch off

and note the following:

a. If the starter relay clicks, test the starter relay

as described under Component Testing in this

section. If the starter relay test readings are

correct, continue with Step 2.

b. If the solenoid clicks, go to Step 3.

c. If there was no click, go to Step 6.

b. If the voltage drop is more than 2 volts, check

2. Check the wiring connectors between the starter

the solenoid and battery wires and connec-

relay and solenoid. Note the following:

tions for dirty or loose fitting terminals; clean

a. Repair any dirty, loose fitting or damaged

and repair as required.

connectors or wiring.

b. If the wiring is okay, remove the starter motor

Remove the starter motor as described in Chap-

as described in Chapter Eight. Perform the so-

ter Eight. Momentarily connect a fully charged

lenoid and starter motor bench tests described

12-volt battery to the starter motor as shown in Fig-

in this section.

ure 10. If the starter motor is operational, it will turn

3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery

when connected to the battery. Disconnect the bat-

and solenoid terminals as described under Voltage

tery and note the following:

Drop Tests in this section. The normal voltage drop

a. If the starter motor turns, perform the sole-

is less than 2 volts. Note the following:

noid pull-in and hold-in tests as described un-

a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, per-

der Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests) in this

form Step 4.

section.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

starter relay. The voltmeter must read battery volt-

age. Note the following:

a. If battery voltage is noted, continue with Step

b. If there is no voltage, go to Step 8.

7. Check the starter relay ground at the starter relay

(Figure 11). Note the following:

a. If the starter relay is properly grounded, test

the starter relay as described in this section.

b. If the starter relay is not grounded, check the

ground connection. Repair the ground con-

nection, then retest.

8. Check for voltage at the starter button. Note the

following:

a. If there is voltage at the starter button, test the

starter relay as described in this section.

b. If there is no voltage at the starter button,

check continuity across the starter button. If

there is voltage leading to the starter button

but no voltage leaving the starter button, re-

place the button switch and retest. If there is

no voltage leading to the starter button, check

the starter button wiring for dirty or

loose-fitting terminals or damaged wiring;

clean and/or repair as required.

Starter motor spins but does not engage

If the starter motor spins but the pinion gear does

not engage the ring gear, perform the following:

1. Remove the outer primary cover as described in

Chapter Five.

2. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 12) mounted

on the end of the jackshaft. If the teeth are chipped

or worn, inspect the clutch ring gear (B, Figure 12)

for the same problems. Note the following:

a. If the pinion gear and ring gear are damaged,

service these parts as described in Chapter

If the starter motor does not turn, disassemble

Five.

the starter motor as described in Chapter

b. If the pinion gear and ring gear are not dam-

Eight, and check it for opens, shorts and

aged, continue with Step 3.

grounds.

3. Remove and disassemble the starter motor as de-

the problem is not evident after performing

scribed in Chapter Eight. Then check the overrun-

Steps 3 and 4, check the starter shaft to see if it is

ning clutch assembly (Figure 13) for:

binding at the jackshaft. Check the jackshaft for

a. Roller damage (Figure 14).

binding or damage. Refer to Starter Jackshaft in

b. Compression spring damage (A, Figure 15).

Chapter Five.

c. Excessively worn or damaged pinion teeth.

6. If there is no click when performing Step 1, mea-

d. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction.

sure voltage between the starter button and the

e. Damaged clutch shaft splines (B, Figure 15).

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CHAPTER TWO

f. Damaged overrunning clutch assembly (Fig-

ure 16).

4. Replace worn or damaged parts as required.

Starter motor will not disengage

after the start button is released

1. A sticking solenoid, caused by a worn solenoid

compression spring (A, Figure 15), can cause this

problem. Replace the solenoid if damaged.

2. On high-mileage vehicles, the pinion gear (A,

Figure 12) can jam on a worn clutch ring gear (B,

Figure 12). Unable to return, the starter will con-

tinue to run. This condition usually requires ring

gear replacement.

3. Check the start switch and starter relay (Figure

11) for internal damage. Test the start switch as de-

scribed under Switches in Chapter Eight. Test the

starter relay as described in this chapter.

Loud grinding noises when

the starter motor turns

Incorrect pinion gear and clutch ring gear engage-

ment (Figure 12) or a broken overrunning clutch

mechanism (Figure 16) can cause this problem. Re-

move and inspect the starter motor as described in

Chapter Eight.

Starter motor stalls or spins too slowly

1. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery

and solenoid terminals as described under Voltage

Drop Tests in this section. The normal voltage drop

is less than 2 volts. Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, con-

tinue with Step 2.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the

tions for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean

solenoid and battery wires and connections

and repair as required.

for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean and

Perform a voltage drop test between the battery

repair as required.

ground wire and the starter motor as described under

2. Perform a voltage drop test between the solenoid

Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal volt-

terminals and the starter motor as described under

age drop is less than 0.2 volts. Note the following:

Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal volt-

a. If the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts, con-

age drop is less than 2 volts. Note the following:

tinue with Step 4.

a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, con-

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 0.2 volts, check

tinue with Step 3.

the battery ground wire connections for dirty

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the

or loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as

solenoid and starter motor wires and connec-

required.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

4. Perform the Starter Current Draw Test in this

section. Note the following:

a. If the current draw is excessive, check for a

damaged starter motor or starter drive assem-

bly. Remove the starter motor as described in

Chapter Eight and perform the Free Running

Current Draw Test in this section.

b. If the current draw reading is correct, con-

tinue with Step 5.

5. Remove the outer primary cover as described in

Chapter Five. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 12).

If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch

ring gear (B, Figure 12) for the same problem.

a. If the pinion gear and ring gear are damaged,

service these parts as described in Chapter

Five.

b. If the pinion gear and ring gear are not dam-

aged, continue with Step 6.

6. Remove and disassemble the starter motor as de-

scribed in Chapter Eight. Check the disassembled

starter motor for opens, shorts and grounds.

Component Testing

The following sections describe how to test indi-

vidual starting system components. Refer to Chap-

ter Eight for starter service.

STARTER RELAY

Starter Relay

Removal/Testing/Installation

Check the starter relay operation with an ohmme-

Ohmmeter

ter, jumper wires and a fully charged 12-volt bat-

tery.

NOTE

Do not loosen the electrical panel

87A

screws. They are trapped within the

mounting pin and do not have to be re-

moved.

1. Carefully pull out and remove the electric panel

cover (Figure 17).

2. Remove the nuts securing the outer panel (Fig-

ure 18) and remove the outer panel.

3. Disconnect and remove the starter relay (Figure

19) from the starting circuit.

12-volt battery

4. Connect an ohmmeter and 12-volt battery be-

tween the relay terminals shown in Figure 20. This

setup will energize the relay for testing.

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CHAPTER TWO

5. Check for continuity through the relay contacts

using an ohmmeter while the relay coil is energized.

The correct reading is 0 ohms. If resistance is exces-

sive or if there is no continuity, replace the relay.

6. If the starter relay passes this test, reconnect the

relay.

7. Install the outer panel (Figure 18) and tighten

the nuts.

8. Correctly position the electrical panel cover with

the This side down label facing down (Figure 21).

9. Carefully push the electric panel cover (Figure

17) back into position. Push it on until it bottoms.

Starter Motor Current Draw Tests

CURRENT DRAW TEST

The following current draw test measures current

(amperage) that the starter circuit requires to crank

the engine. Refer to Table 1 for current draw speci-

fications.

Induction

A short circuit in the starter motor or a damaged

ammeter

pinion gear assembly can cause excessive current

draw. If the current draw is low, suspect an under-

charged battery or an open circuit in the starting cir-

cuit.

Current draw test (starter motor

Solenoid

mounted on the engine)

NOTE

Battery

This test requires a fully charged bat-

tery and an inductive ammeter.

1. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.

Starter

2. Disconnect the two spark plug caps from the

spark plugs. Then ground the plug caps with two ex-

tra spark plugs. Do not remove the spark plugs from

the cylinder heads.

If the current draw exceeds the current

draw

3. Connect an inductive ammeter between the

specification in Table

1, check for a defective

starter motor terminal and positive battery terminal

starter or starter drive mechanism. Remove and ser-

(Figure 22). Connect a jumper cable from the nega-

vice these components as described in Chapter

tive battery terminal to ground (Figure 22).

Eight.

4. Turn the ignition switch on and press the start

6. Disconnect the ammeter and jumper cables.

button for approximately 10 seconds. Note the am-

meter reading.

Current draw test (starter motor

removed from the engine)

NOTE

The current draw is high when the

This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery,

start button is first pressed, then it will

drop and stabilize at a lower reading.

an inductive ammeter, a jumper wire (14 gauge

Refer to the lower stabilized reading

minimum) and 3 jumper cables (6 gauge mini-

during this test.

mum).

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TROUBLESHOOTING

FREE RUNNING

CURRENT DRAW TEST

Ammeter

M terminal

charged battery or an open field winding or

50 terminal

armature in the starter motor.

Solenoid Testing

(Bench Tests)

This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery

and three jumper wires.

Battery

Starter mounting flange

1. Remove the starter motor (A, Figure 24) as de-

scribed in Chapter Nine.

NOTE

The solenoid (B, Figure 24) must be

1. Remove the starter motor as described in Chap-

installed on the starter motor during

ter Eight.

the following tests. Do not remove it.

NOTE

The solenoid must be installed on the

2. Disconnect the C field wire terminal (C, Figure

starter motor during the following

24) from the solenoid before performing the follow-

tests.

ing tests. Insulate the end of the wire terminal so

that it cannot short out on any of the test connectors.

2. Mount the starter motor in a vise with soft jaws.

3. Connect the 14-gauge jumper cable between the

CAUTION

positive battery terminal and the solenoid 50 termi-

Because battery voltage is being ap-

nal (Figure 23).

plied directly to the solenoid and

starter in the following tests, do not

4. Connect a jumper cable (6-gauge minimum) be-

leave the jumper cables connected to

tween the positive battery terminal and the ammeter

the solenoid for more than 3-5 sec-

(Figure 23).

onds; otherwise, the voltage will dam-

5. Connect the second jumper cable between the

age the solenoid.

ammeter and the M terminal on the starter solenoid

(Figure 23).

NOTE

6. Connect the third jumper cable between the bat-

Thoroughly read the following proce-

tery ground terminal and the starter motor mounting

dure to familiarize and understand

flange (Figure 23).

the procedures and test connections.

7. Read the ammeter, the correct ammeter reading

Then perform the tests in the order

is 90 amps. A damaged pinion gear assembly will

listed and without interruption.

cause an excessively high current draw reading. If

the current draw reading is low, check for an under-

3. Perform the solenoid pull-in test as follows:

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CHAPTER TWO

SOLENOID PULL-IN TEST

SOLENOID HOLD-IN TEST

C terminal

Solenoid

Battery

Starter

50 terminal

a. Connect 1 jumper wire from the negative bat-

tery terminal to the solenoid C terminal (Fig-

SOLENOID RETURN TEST

ure 25).

b. Connect 1 jumper wire from the negative bat-

tery terminal to the solenoid housing (ground)

(Figure 25).

C terminal

c. Touch a jumper wire from the positive battery

terminal to the starter 50 terminal (Figure

Solenoid

25). The pinion shaft (D, Figure 24) must pull

into the housing.

Battery

d. Leave the jumper wires connected and con-

tinue with Step 4.

4. To perform the solenoid hold-in test, perform the

Starter

following:

50 terminal

a. With the pinion shaft pulled in (Step 3), dis-

connect the C terminal jumper wire from the

negative battery terminal and connect it to the

6. Replace the solenoid if the starter shaft failed to

positive battery terminal (Figure 26). The

operate as described in Steps 3-5. See Solenoid Re-

pinion shaft will remain in the housing. If the

placement in Chapter Eight.

pinion shaft returns to its out position, replace

the solenoid.

CHARGING SYSTEM

b. Leave the jumper wires connected and con-

tinue with Step 5.

The charging system consists of the battery, al-

5. To perform the solenoid return test, perform the

ternator and a solid state rectifier/voltage regula-

following:

tor.

a. Disconnect the jumper wire from the starter

The alternator generates alternating current (AC)

50 terminal (Figure 27); the pinion shaft must

which the rectifier converts to direct current (DC).

return to its out position.

The regulator maintains the voltage to the battery at

b. Disconnect all of the jumper wires from the

a constant level despite variations in engine speed

solenoid and battery.

and load.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

8. Do not mount the voltage regulator/rectifier unit

in another location.

9. Make sure the negative battery terminal is con-

nected to the engine and frame.

Troubleshooting

If the battery is discharged, perform the following

procedure.

1. Test the battery as described in Chapter Eight.

Charge the battery if required. If the battery will

hold a charge, continue with Step 2.

2. Perform the regulator ground test.

Testing

If charging system trouble is suspected, first

check the battery charge. Clean and test the battery

as described in Chapter Eight. If the battery is fully

charged, test the charging system as follows.

If the battery discharges while riding the motor-

cycle, perform the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Test .

Also refer to Current Drain Test (Battery Dis-

A malfunction in the charging system generally

charges While Riding the Motorcycle).

causes the battery to remain undercharged.

If the battery discharges while the motorcycle is

not running, perform the Current Drain Test (Bat-

tery Discharges While the Motorcycle is Not Run-

Service Precautions

ning) test.

Before servicing the charging system, observe

the following precautions to prevent damage to any

Voltage Regulator

charging system component.

Ground Test

1. Never reverse battery connections.

2. Do not short across any connection.

The voltage regulator base (Figure 28) must be

grounded to the frame for proper operation.

3. Never start the engine with the alternator discon-

nected from the voltage regulator/rectifier, unless

1. Switch an ohmmeter to the R×1 scale.

instructed to do so during testing.

2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or

4. Never attempt to start or run the engine with the

frame ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the

battery disconnected.

regulator base. Read the ohmmeter scale. The cor-

rect reading is 0 ohm. Note the following:

5. Never attempt to use a high-output battery

charger to help start the engine.

a. If there is low resistance (0 ohm), the voltage

6. Before charging the battery, remove it from the

regulator is properly grounded.

motorcycle as described in Chapter Eight.

b. If there is high resistance, remove the voltage

7. Never disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier

regulator and clean its frame mounting

connector with the engine running. The voltage reg-

points.

ulator/rectifier (Figure 28) is mounted on the front

3. Check that the voltage regulator connector plug

frame down tubes.

(Figure 29) is clean and tightly connected.

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CHAPTER TWO

Voltage Regulator Bleed Test

CHECKING CURRENT DRAW

This test requires a 12-volt test lamp. This tool re-

WITH IGNITION SWITCH OFF

lies on the vehicle’s battery to supply power to the

component being tested.

Negative lead (black)

1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector from

the engine crankcase (Figure 29).

NOTE

Do not disconnect the wire from the

voltage regulator to the 30-amp cir-

cuit breaker.

2. Connect one test lamp probe to a good frame or

Positive lead

engine ground.

(red)

3. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the

To ground

voltage regulator pins, then to the other pin.

4. If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regula-

tor.

5. If the voltage regulator passes this test, recon-

nect the voltage regulator connector at the engine

LOAD TEST

crankcase.

Current Drain Test

(Battery Discharges While

the Motorcycle is Not Running)

Battery

Load

tester

Accessory items that require voltage when the en-

gine is not running will eventually drain the battery.

Perform the following steps to check current drain

when the ignition switch and all of the lights are

turned off. A drain that exceeds 3 milliamperes

(mA) will discharge the battery. This test requires a

fully charged 12-volt battery.

trical connectors carefully before testing

the

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the

individual component.

battery.

6. After completing the test, disconnect the amme-

2. Connect an ammeter between the negative bat-

ter and reconnect the negative battery cable.

tery terminal and the battery ground cable as shown

in Figure 30.

3. With the ignition switch, lights and all accesso-

Current Drain Test

ries turned off, read the ammeter. If the current drain

(Battery Discharges While

exceeds 3 mA, continue with Step 4.

Riding the Motorcycle)

4. Refer to the wiring diagram at the end of the

manual, for the model being worked on. Check the

This test measures the current draw or load of the

charging system wires and connectors for shorts or

motorcycle’s electrical system. A load tester is re-

other damage.

quired for this test. Perform this test if the battery

5. Unplug each electrical connector separately and

keeps being discharged, yet the charging system is

check for a change in the meter reading. If the meter

working correctly.

reading changes after disconnecting a connector,

The charging system is designed to provide cur-

the damaged circuit has been found. Check the elec-

rent to meet the demands of the original equipment

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TROUBLESHOOTING

4. If aftermarket accessories have been added to

the motorcycle, disconnect them and repeat Step 2.

If the current draw is now within the specification,

the problem is with the additional accessories.

5. If no accessories have been added to the motor-

cycle, a short circuit may be causing the battery to

discharge.

Charging System Output Test

This test requires a load tester.

1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully

charged.

Load tester

NOTE

When using a load tester, read and fol-

low its manufacturer’s instructions.

To prevent tester damage from over-

heating, do not leave the load switch

ON for more than 20 seconds at a

time.

2. Connect the load tester negative and positive

To circuit breaker

leads to the battery terminals. Then place the load

(DC output)

tester’s induction pickup over the wire connecting

the 30 amp circuit breaker to the voltage regulator

(Figure 32).

3. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed up to

(OE) installed on the motorcycle. If aftermarket ac-

2000 rpm while reading the load tester scale. With

cessories have been installed, the increased current

the engine running at 3000 rpm, operate the load

demand may exceed the charging systems capacity

tester switch until the voltage scale reads 13.0 volts.

and result in a discharged battery.

The tester must show an alternator current output

reading of 26-32 amps.

NOTE

4. With the engine still running at 3000 rpm, turn

When using a load tester, read and fol-

the load switch off and read the load tester voltage

low its manufacturer’s instructions.

scale. Battery voltage must not exceed 15 volts.

To prevent tester damage from over-

heating, do not leave the load switch

Turn the engine off and disconnect the load tester

ON for more than 20 seconds at a

from the motorcycle.

time.

5. Perform the Stator Test described in this chapter.

If the stator tests acceptable a defective voltage reg-

1. Connect a load tester to the battery as shown in

ulator/rectifier (Figure 28) or a wiring short circuit

Figure 31.

is indicated.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the

Make sure to eliminate the possibility of a poor

engine). Then turn on all electrical accessories and

connection or damaged wiring before replacing the

switch the headlight beam to HIGH.

voltage regulator/rectifier.

3. Read the ampere reading (current draw) on the

load tester and compare it to the test results obtained

Stator Test

in the Charging System Output Test in this chapter.

The charging system output test results (current

1. With the ignition switch turned OFF, disconnect

reading) must exceed the current draw by 3.5 amps

the regulator/rectifier connector from the crankcase

for the battery to remain sufficiently charged.

(Figure 29).

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CHAPTER TWO

CHECKING ALTERNATOR

OUTPUT

Ohmmeter

To ground

voltmeter

2. Switch an ohmmeter to its R×1 scale. Then con-

nect it between either stator socket, at the crankcase,

and ground (Figure 33). The correct ohmmeter

reading is infinity. Any other reading suggests a

grounded stator. Repeat this test for the other stator

socket.

the wiring diagrams at the end of this book for the

3. Switch an ohmmeter to its R×1 scale. Then con-

specific model and year being worked on.

nect it between both stator sockets (at the crank-

Because of the solid state design, problems with

case). The correct ohmmeter reading is 0.1-0.2

the transistorized system are rare. If a problem oc-

ohm. If resistance is not as specified, replace the

curs, it generally causes a weak spark or no spark at

stator.

all. An ignition system with a weak spark or no

4. Check stator AC voltage output as follows:

spark is relatively easy to troubleshoot. It is diffi-

a. Connect an AC voltmeter across the stator

cult, however, to troubleshoot an ignition system

pins as shown in Figure 34.

that only malfunctions when the engine is hot or un-

b. Start the engine and slowly increase engine

der load.

speed. The correct voltmeter reading is 16-20

All models are equipped with an on-board diag-

volts AC per each 1000 rpm. For example, if

nostic system. Troubleshooting this system by non

the engine is running at 2000 rpm, the correct

Harley-Davidson personnel is limited to trouble

AC output reading is 32-40 volts AC.

code retrieval.

Retrieving the trouble code(s) will indicate where

NOTE

a fault(s) has occurred. Further testing requires sev-

Figure 35 is shown with the engine

eral Harley-Davidson special tools that are avail-

removed to better illustrate the step.

able only to H-D dealers.

If a fault has occurred, have the diagnostic proce-

c. If the AC voltage output reading is below the

dures performed at a H-D dealership.

specified range, the trouble is probably a de-

fective stator (Figure 35) or rotor. If these

NOTE

parts are not damaged, perform the Charging

The H-D Scanalyzer and Breakout

System Output Test in this section.

Box are not available for purchase.

5. Reconnect the regulator/rectifier connector.

Ignition System Precautions

IGNITION SYSTEM

Certain measures must be taken to protect the ig-

All models are equipped with a transistorized ig-

nition system.

nition system. This solid state system uses no con-

1. Never disconnect any of the electrical connec-

tact breaker points or other moving parts. Refer to

tors while the engine is running.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Apply dielectric grease to all electrical connec-

Diagnostic Trouble Codes

tors prior to reconnecting them. This will help seal

out moisture.

The Dyna-Glide on-board diagnostic system

3. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of

identifies faults and stores this information as a

corrosion and are completely coupled to each other.

two-digit diagnostic trouble code. If more than one

4. The ignition module must always be mounted

fault is found it also sets that fault.

securely to the backside of the electrical panel.

If a trouble code has been set, the check-engine

light will come on. During normal operation, the

check engine light will illuminate for approxi-

Troubleshooting Preparation

mately four seconds when the ignition is turned ON.

The check-engine light then turns off and remains

1. Refer to the wiring diagram for the specific

off. If a diagnostic trouble code(s) has been set, the

model being worked on at the end of this book when

check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns

performing the following.

off, and then turns back on for eight seconds or re-

2. Check the wiring harness for visible signs of

mains on beyond the eight second period.

damage.

Trouble codes are retrieved by counting the num-

3. Make sure all connectors are properly attached

ber of times the check-engine light flashes.

to each other and locked in place.

4. Check all electrical components for a good

ground to the engine.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Retrieving)

5. Check all wiring for short circuits or open cir-

cuits.

Diagnostic trouble codes are displayed as a series

6. Check for a damaged ignition circuit breaker

of flashes at the check-engine light on the speedom-

(Figure 36) located behind the electric panel.

eter face. To retrieve the stored codes, a jumper wire

7. Make sure the fuel tank has an adequate supply

made of 18-gauge wire and two Deutsch sockets

of fresh gasoline.

(H-D part No. 72191-94), as shown in Figure 37,

8. Check spark plug cable routing and their con-

are required

nections at the spark plugs. If there is no spark or

To retrieve the diagnostic trouble code(s), per-

only a weak one, repeat the test with new spark

form the following:

plugs. If the condition remains the same with new

1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Thir-

spark plugs and if all external wiring connections

teen.

are good, the problem is most likely in the ignition

system. If a strong spark is present, the problem is

NOTE

probably not in the ignition system. Check the fuel

Do not loosen the electrical panel

system.

screws. They are trapped within the

9. Remove the spark plugs and examine them as

mounting pin and do not have to be re-

described in Chapter Three.

moved.

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CHAPTER TWO

2 in.

2. Carefully pull out and remove the electric panel

cover (Figure 17).

3. Remove the nuts securing the outer panel (Fig-

ure 18) and remove the outer panel.

4. Remove the data link connector (A, Figure 38)

from the holder on the electrical panel.

5. Remove the protective cover (B, Figure 38)

from the data link connector.

6. Install the jumper wire onto pins No. 1 (light

green/red) and No. 2 (black) on the data link con-

nector (Figure 39).

7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Af-

ter approximately eight seconds, the different sys-

tems enter the diagnostic codes.

a. The check engine light begins with a ready

signal, which is a series of six rapid flashes,

approximately three per second. The ready

signal indicates that the check engine light is

ready to flash a diagnostic trouble code.

b. This is followed by a two-second pause.

c. The system then flashes the first digit of the

stored diagnostic trouble code. The

check-engine light will illuminate for one

second and then turn off for one second.

Count the number of flashes and record the

number. For example, two blinks indicates

The system will pause for two seconds, and

the first digit is two.

then flashes the first digit of the next diag-

d. The system will pause for two seconds and

nostic trouble code, followed by the second

then flash the second digit of the diagnostic

digit.

trouble code. Count the number of flashes,

and record this number. For example, five

The system displays the stored codes, sequen-

blinks indicates the second digit is five. This

tially, one at a time, until each diagnostic trouble

indicates that the first trouble code is twenty

code has been displayed. The system then repeats.

five, or a problem with the rear ignition coil.

The check-engine light will continue to flash out

e. If more than one trouble code is present, the

stored codes until the jumper wire is disconnected.

system will pause for two seconds and then

When the codes repeat, this indicates that all stored

flash the ready signal, which is a series of six

codes have been displayed. Turn the ignition switch

rapid flashes. It is now ready to flash the next

to the OFF position and remove the jumper wire

trouble code.

from the data link connector.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

IGNITION COIL

CIRCUIT TESTS

Secondary terminals

Ohmmeter

Primary terminals

Ignition Module Testing and Replacement

If the ignition module is suspected of being de-

fective, have it tested by a H-D dealership before

purchasing a replacement. The cost of the test will

not exceed the cost of replacing an ignition module

that may not repair the problem. Most parts suppli-

ers will not accept returns on electrical compo-

nents.

9. Refer to Table 3 for diagnostic trouble codes,

and check the component indicated. If multiple

codes have been sent, troubleshoot the lowest num-

Ignition Coil Testing

bered code first. The source of subsequent codes

Use an ohmmeter to check the ignition coil sec-

may be the same malfunction that has caused the

ondary and primary resistance. Test the coil twice:

first.

first when it is cold (room temperature) and then at

10. Install the protective cover onto the data link

normal operating temperature. If the engine will not

connector (B, Figure 38) and fit the data link con-

start, heat the coil with a hair dryer, then test with

nector (A, Figure 38) onto the holder on the electri-

the ohmmeter.

cal panel.

1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Thir-

11. Install the outer panel (Figure 18) and tighten

teen.

the nuts.

2. Disconnect the secondary (Figure 40) and pri-

12. Correctly position the electrical panel cover

mary wire connector (Figure 41) from the ignition

with the This side down label facing down (Figure

coil.

21).

NOTE

13. Carefully push the electric panel cover (Figure

When switching between ohmmeter

17) back into position. Push it on until it bottoms.

scales in the following tests, always

14. Install the seat.

cross the test leads and zero the nee-

dle to assure a correct reading (ana-

log meter only).

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Clearing)

3. Set an ohmmeter on R ×1. Measure the ignition

The trouble codes can only be cleared by a

coil primary resistance between the coil primary

Harley-Davidson dealership.

terminals (Figure 42). Compare the reading to the

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHAPTER TWO

specification in Table 2. Replace the ignition coil if

the reading is not within specification.

4. Set the ohmmeter on its highest scale. Measure

the resistance between the secondary terminals

(Figure 42). Compare the reading to the specifica-

tion in Table 2. Replace the ignition coil if the read-

ing is not within specification.

Ignition Coil Cables and Caps

Inspection

All Dyna Glide models are equipped with resis-

tor- or suppression-type spark plug cables (Figure

43). These cables reduce radio interference. The ca-

ble’s conductor consists of a carbon-impregnated

fabric core material instead of solid wire.

If a plug cable becomes damaged, either due to

corrosion or conductor breaks, its resistance in-

creases. Excessive cable resistance will cause en-

gine misfire and other ignition or driveability

problems.

When troubleshooting the ignition system, in-

spect the spark plug cables (Figure 44) for:

1. Corroded or damaged connector ends.

Identifying Carburetor Conditions

2. Breaks in the cable insulation that could allow

Refer to the following conditions

identify

arcing.

whether the engine is running lean or rich.

3. Split or damaged plug caps that could allow arc-

ing to the cylinder heads.

Rich

Replace damaged or questionable spark plug ca-

bles.

1. Fouled spark plugs.

2. Engine misfires and runs rough under load.

3. Excessive exhaust smoke as the throttle is in-

FUEL SYSTEM

creased.

4. An extreme rich condition results in a choked or

Many riders automatically assume that the carbu-

dull sound from the exhaust and an inability to clear

retor is at fault when the engine does not run prop-

the exhaust with the throttle held wide open.

erly. While fuel system problems are not

uncommon, carburetor adjustment is seldom the an-

swer. In many cases, adjusting will only compound

Lean

the problem by making the engine run worse.

1. Blistered or very white spark plug electrodes.

Begin fuel system troubleshooting with the fuel

2. Engine overheats.

tank and work through the system, reserving the

3. Slow acceleration, engine power is reduced.

carburetor as the final point. Most fuel system prob-

lems result from an empty fuel tank, a plugged fuel

4. Flat spots on acceleration that are similar in feel

filter or fuel valve, sour fuel, a dirty air filter or

to when the engine starts to run out of gas.

clogged carburetor jets.

5. Engine speed fluctuates at full throttle.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

pushed against the seat to prevent the float bowl

FUEL LEVEL SYSTEM

from overfilling.

If the fuel valve fails to close, the engine will run

too rich or flood with fuel. Symptoms of this prob-

lem are rough running, excessive black smoke and

poor acceleration. This condition will sometimes

clear up when the engine is run at wide-open throt-

tle, as the fuel is being drawn into the engine before

the float bowl can overfill. As the engine speed is

reduced, however, the rich-running condition re-

turns.

Several things can cause fuel overflow. In most

instances, it can be as simple as a small piece of dirt

trapped between the fuel valve and seat or an incor-

Float

bowl

rect float level. If fuel is flowing out of the overflow

vent

tube connected to the bottom of the float bowl, the

Fuel

fuel valve inside the carburetor is being held open.

inlet

First check the position of the fuel shutoff valve le-

(from side)

ver. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever OFF. Then

lightly tap on the carburetor float bowl and turn the

fuel shutoff valve lever ON. If the fuel flow stops

running out of the overflow tube, whatever was

holding the fuel valve off of its seat has been dis-

Inlet

valve

lodged. If fuel continues to flow from the overflow

tube, remove and service the carburetor. See Chap-

Float

ter Seven.

Overflow

line

NOTE

Fuel will not flow from the vac-

uum-operated fuel shutoff valve until

the engine is running.

Troubleshooting

Isolate fuel system problems to the fuel tank, fuel

Starting enrichment (choke) system

shutoff valve and filter, fuel hoses, external fuel fil-

ter (if used) or carburetor. The following procedures

A cold engine requires a rich mixture to start and

assume that the ignition system is working properly

run properly. On all models, a cable-actuated starter

and is correctly adjusted.

enrichment valve is used for cold starting.

If the engine is difficult to start when cold, check

the starting enrichment (choke) cable adjustment

Fuel level system

described in Chapter Three.

The fuel level system is shown in Figure 45.

Proper carburetor operation depends on a constant

Accelerator pump system

and correct carburetor fuel level. As fuel is drawn

from the float bowl during engine operation, the

During sudden throttle openings the diaphragm

float level in the bowl drops. As the float drops, the

type accelerator pump system (Figure 46) provides

fuel valve moves away from its seat and allows fuel

additional fuel to the engine. Without this system

to flow through the seat into the float bowl. Fuel en-

the carburetor would not be able to provide a suffi-

tering the float bowl will cause the float to rise and

cient amount of fuel.

push against the fuel valve. When the fuel level

The system consists of a spring loaded neoprene

reaches a predetermined level, the fuel valve is

diaphragm that is compressed during sudden accel-

Harley Davidson 1999-2005 Harley Dyna Models. Repair Manual - page 3