Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 103
6 With the drum in position, refit the wheel,
then carry out the renewal procedure on the
remaining rear brake.
7 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
tighten the wheel nuts.
8 Depress the brake pedal several times, in
order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism
and set the shoes at their normal operating
position.
9 Make several forward and reverse stops,
and operate the handbrake fully two or three
times. Give the vehicle a road test, to make
sure that the brakes are functioning correctly,
and to bed-in the new linings to the contours
of the disc. Remember that the new linings
will not give full braking efficiency until they
have bedded-in.
Note: Before starting work, check on the
availability of parts (overhaul kit of seals). Also
bear in mind that if the brake shoes have been
contaminated by fluid leaking from the wheel
cylinder, they must be renewed. In principle,
the shoes on BOTH sides of the vehicle must
be renewed, even if they are only
contaminated on one side.
Removal
1 Remove the brake drum as described in
Section 5.
2 Minimise fluid loss either by removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap, and then
tightening it down onto a piece of polythene
to obtain an airtight seal, or by using a brake
hose clamp, a G-clamp, or similar tool, to
clamp the flexible hose at the nearest
convenient point to the wheel cylinder.
3 Pull the brake shoes apart at their top ends,
so that they are just clear of the wheel
cylinder. The automatic adjuster will hold the
shoes in this position, so that the cylinder can
be withdrawn.
4 Wipe away all traces of dirt around the
hydraulic union at the rear of the wheel
cylinder, then undo the union nut.
5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the wheel
cylinder to the backplate (see illustration).
6 Withdraw the wheel cylinder from the
backplate so that it is clear of the brake
shoes. Plug the open hydraulic unions, to
prevent the entry of dirt, and to minimise
further fluid loss whilst the cylinder is
detached.
Overhaul
7 Clean the external surfaces of the cylinder,
and unscrew the bleed screw.
8 Carefully prise off the dust cover from each
end of the cylinder.
9 Tap the wheel cylinder on a block of wood
to eject the pistons and seals, keeping them
identified for location. Finally remove the
spring.
10 Clean the pistons and the cylinder by
washing in methylated spirit or fresh hydraulic
fluid. Do not use petrol, paraffin or any other
mineral-based fluid. Remove and discard the
old seals, noting which way round they are
fitted.
11 Examine the surfaces of the pistons and
the cylinder bores, and look for any signs of
rust or scoring. If such damage is evident, the
complete wheel cylinder must be renewed.
12 Reassemble by lubricating the first piston
in clean hydraulic fluid, then manipulating a
new seal into position, so that its raised lip
faces away from the brake shoe bearing face
of the piston.
13 Insert the piston into the cylinder. As the
seal enters the bore, twist the piston back and
forth so that the seal lip is not trapped.
14 Insert the spring, then refit the remaining
piston and seal, again making sure that the
seal lip is not trapped as it enters the bore.
15 Fit new dust covers to the grooves in the
pistons and wheel cylinder body.
16 Refit the bleed screw.
Refitting
17 Wipe clean the backplate, and remove the
plug from the end of the hydraulic pipe. Fit the
cylinder onto the backplate, and screw in the
hydraulic union nut by hand, being careful not
to cross-thread it.
18 Tighten the mounting bolts, then fully
tighten the hydraulic union nut.
19 Retract the automatic brake adjuster
mechanism, so that the brake shoes engage
with the pistons of the wheel cylinder. To do
this, prise the shoes apart slightly, turn the
automatic adjuster to its minimum position,
and release the shoes.
20 Remove the clamp from the flexible brake
hose, or the polythene from the master
cylinder (as applicable).
21 Refit the brake drum with reference to
Section 5.
22 Bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Section 15. Providing suitable
precautions were taken to minimise loss of
fluid, it should only be necessary to bleed the
relevant rear brake.
23 Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on BOTH rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Although
genuine Ford linings are asbestos-free, the
dust created by wear of non-genuine pads
may contain asbestos, which is a health
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and don’t inhale any of it. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid,
oil or grease to contact the brake pads or
disc.
1 Chock the front wheels, and engage 1st
gear (or “P”). Loosen the rear wheel nuts, jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support it on
axle stands.
2 Remove the rear wheels. Work on one
brake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
3 Inspect the rear brake disc as described in
Section 10.
4 Extract the spring clip, and pull out the
retaining pin securing the caliper to the carrier
8 Rear brake pads - renewal
7 Rear wheel cylinder -
removal, overhaul and refitting
9•8 Braking system
6.2N Clean the backplate, and apply small
amounts of high-melting-point brake
grease to the brake shoe contact points.
Be careful not to get grease on any friction
surfaces
6.2O Lubricate the sliding components of
the automatic adjuster with a little high-
melting-point brake grease, but leave the
serrations on the eccentric cam shown
here clean
7.5 Bolts securing the wheel cylinder to
the backplate. Hydraulic union nut and
bleed screw cover are also visible