Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 89

 

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Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 89

 

 

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Radiator mounting bracket-to-subframe bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

Fluid cooler pipe unions - automatic transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

Thermostat housing-to-cylinder head bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

15

Water outlet-to-thermostat  housing bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 11

6 to 8

Coolant temperature sensor  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

Coolant temperature gauge sender  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Water pump bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18

13

Water pump pulley bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 2A

Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Engine cooling system

All vehicles covered by this manual employ

a pressurised engine cooling system with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circu-
lation. A water pump mounted on the drivebelt
end of the cylinder block/crankcase pumps
coolant through the engine. The coolant flows
around each cylinder and toward the
transmission end of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the
inlet and exhaust ports, near the spark 
plug areas and close to the exhaust valve
guides.

A wax pellet type thermostat is located in a

housing at the transmission end of the engine.
During warm-up, the closed thermostat
prevents coolant from circulating through the
radiator. Instead, it returns through the
coolant metal pipe running across the front of
the engine to the radiator bottom hose and
the water pump. The supply to the heater is
made from the rear of the thermostat housing.
As the engine nears normal operating
temperature, the thermostat opens and allows
hot coolant to travel through the radiator,
where it is cooled before returning to the
engine.

The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-

type filler cap in the expansion tank. The
pressure in the system raises the boiling point
of the coolant, and increases the cooling
efficiency of the radiator. When the engine is
at normal operating temperature, the coolant
expands, and the surplus is displaced into the
expansion tank. When the system cools, the
surplus coolant is automatically drawn back
from the tank into the radiator.

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the

engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has

stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they
have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted surfaces
of the vehicle. Rinse off spills

immediately with plenty of water. Never
leave antifreeze lying around in an open
container, or in a puddle in the driveway or
on the garage floor. Children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze
is fatal if ingested.

Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep

hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.

Heating system

The heating system consists of a blower fan

and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. When the heater temperature
control on the facia is operated, a flap door
opens to expose the heater box to the
passenger compartment. When the blower
control is operated, the blower fan forces air
through the unit according to the setting
selected.

Air conditioning system

See Section 11.

WarningDo not allow antifreeze to come in
contact with your skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is
highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink it.
Check with local authorities about disposing
of used antifreeze - many have collection
centres which will see that antifreeze is
disposed of safely.

The cooling system should be filled with a

water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25°C, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be maintained

according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with
the antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to
use only soft water. Clean rainwater is
suitable.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses

and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level goes down, find the cause and
correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water

which you should use depends on the
relative weather conditions. The mixture
should contain at least 40% antifreeze, but
not more than 70%. Consult the mixture
ratio chart on the antifreeze container
before adding coolant. Hydrometers are
available at most automotive accessory
shops to test the coolant. Use antifreeze
which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s
specifications.

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal
a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows
(see illustration).
First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.

3 Cooling system hoses -

disconnection and renewal

2 Antifreeze - general information

1 General information

If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it
by rotating it on its unions before attempting
to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose
with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed
screwdriver), but do not apply too much force,
and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or
hoses. Note in particular that the radiator hose
unions are fragile; do not use excessive force
when attempting to remove the hoses. If all
else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife, then
slit it so that it can be peeled off in two pieces.
While expensive, this is preferable to buying a
new radiator. Check first, however, that a new
hose is readily available.
When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps

onto the hose, then work the hose onto its
unions. If the hose is stiff, use soap (or
washing-up liquid) as a lubricant, or soften it
by soaking it in boiling water, but take care to
prevent scalding.
Work each hose end fully onto its union,
then check that the hose is settled correctly
and is properly routed. Slide each clip along
the hose until it is behind the union flared end,
before tightening it securely.
Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-
ter 1).
Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chap-
ter 4).
Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If
the coolant is relatively new or in good
condition, drain it into a clean container and
re-use it.
Disconnect the expansion tank coolant
hose and the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing’s water outlet.
Unbolt the water outlet and withdraw the
thermostat  (see illustration). Note the
position of the air bleed valve, and how the
thermostat is installed (which end is facing
outwards).

Testing

General check

Before assuming the thermostat is to blame
for a cooling system problem, check the
coolant level, auxiliary drivebelt tension and
condition (see Chapter 1) and temperature
gauge operation.
If the engine seems to be taking a long time
to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat
is probably stuck open. Renew the
thermostat.
If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the radiator top
hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,
the thermostat is probably stuck closed,
preventing the coolant inside the engine from
escaping to the radiator - renew the
thermostat. 

4 Thermostat 

removal, testing and refitting

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems  3•3

3

4.5  Unbolt water outlet to withdraw

thermostat

3.1  Cooling system components

1  Radiator
2  (Twin) electric cooling fan 

and shroud

3  Expansion tank
4  Filler/pressure cap
5  Bolt
6  (Single) electric cooling fan 

and shroud

7  Bolt
8  Coolant pipe
9  Nut

10  Top mounting rubber
11  Bottom mounting rubber
12  Bolt
13  Radiator mounting 

bracket

14  Coolant hose
15  Bolt
16  Radiator top hose
17  Coolant pipe/hose
18  Stud
19  Thermostat housing
20  Radiator bottom hose

Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle
without a thermostat. The lack of
a thermostat will slow warm-up

time. The engine management system’s
ECU will then stay in warm-up mode for
longer than necessary, causing emissions
and fuel economy to suffer.

If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that
the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is
open. Consult the “Fault diagnosis” section at
the front of this manual to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults.

Thermostat test

10 If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and
must be renewed as a matter of course.
11 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it;
ensure that neither touches the side of the
container.
12 Heat the water, and check the
temperature at which the thermostat begins to
open; compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open; the temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end. Remove the thermostat and allow
it to cool down; check that it closes fully.
13 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
it must be renewed.

Refitting

14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Clean the mating surfaces
carefully, renew the thermostat’s sealing ring
if it is worn or damaged, then refit the
thermostat with its air bleed valve uppermost
(see illustration). Tighten the water outlet
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
15 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
16 Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation.

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Testing

The radiator cooling fan is controlled by the
engine management system’s ECU, acting on
the information received from the coolant
temperature sensor. Where twin fans or two-
speed fans are fitted, control is through a
resistor assembly, secured to the bottom left-
hand corner of the fan shroud - this can be
renewed separately if faulty.
First, check the relevant fuses and relays
(see Chapter 12).
To test the fan motor, unplug the electrical
connector, and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery. If the
fan still does not work, renew the motor.
If the motor proved sound, the fault lies in
the coolant temperature sensor (see Section 6
for testing details), in the wiring loom (see
Chapter 12 for testing details) or in the engine
management system (see Chapter 6).

Removal and refitting

Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4).

Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
Remove the radiator top hose completely.
Disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat, and unbolt the coolant pipe
from the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Unplug the cooling fan electrical
connector(s), then release all wiring and hoses
from the fan shroud.
10 Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan
shroud, then lift the assembly to disengage it
from its bottom mountings and from the
radiator top edge (see illustrations).
11 Withdraw the fan and shroud as an
assembly (see illustration).
12 At the time of writing, the fan, motor and
shroud are available only as a complete
assembly, and must be renewed together if
faulty.
13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the shroud is settled
correctly at all four mounting points before
refitting and tightening the nuts.

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Coolant temperature gauge
sender

Testing

If the coolant temperature gauge is inopera-
tive, check the fuses first (see Chapter 12).
If the gauge indicates Hot at any time,
consult the “Fault finding” section at the end
of this manual, to assist in tracing possible
cooling system faults.
If the gauge indicates Hot shortly after the
engine is started from cold, unplug the
coolant temperature sender’s electrical
connector. If the gauge reading now drops,
renew the sender. If the reading remains high,
the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth,
or the gauge is faulty.
If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine
has been warmed up (approximately 
10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be
sound, switch off the engine. Unplug the

6 Cooling system electrical

switches and sensors 
testing, removal and refitting

5 Radiator electric cooling 

fan(s) - testing, 
removal and refitting

3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

4.14  Ensure thermostat is refitted as

shown

5.10A  Fan shroud is secured at top by

mounting nut (A), at bottom by clip (B) . . .

5.10B  . . . and is hooked over radiator top

edge (one point arrowed)

5.11  Removing radiator electric cooling

fan and shroud assembly

sender’s electrical connector, and use a
jumper wire to connect the white/red wire to a
clean earth point (bare metal) on the engine.
Switch on the ignition without starting the
engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew
the sender.
If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.

Removal

Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chap-
ter 4).
Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
Disconnect the expansion tank coolant
hose and the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing’s water outlet, then
disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat.
Unplug the electrical connector from the
sender (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.

Refitting

11 Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sender’s threads.
Screw in the sender and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting, and plug in
its electrical connector.
12 Reconnect the hoses and refit the
resonator, top-up the cooling system (see
Chapter 1) and run the engine. Check for
leaks and proper gauge operation.

Coolant temperature sensor

Testing

13 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
14 Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
15 Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor (see illustration).
16 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. If the
sensor’s temperature is varied - by removing
it (see below) and placing it in a freezer for a
while, or by warming it gently - its resistance
should alter accordingly.
17 If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18 On completion, plug in the connector and
refit the resonator.

Removal

19 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
20 Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
21 With the engine completely cool, remove
the expansion tank filler cap to release any
pressure, then refit the cap. Provided you
work swiftly and plug the opening as soon as
the sensor is unscrewed, coolant loss will thus
be minimised; this will avoid the draining of
the complete cooling system which would
otherwise be necessary (see Chapter 1).
22 Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor.
23 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it. If the
cooling system has not been drained, plug the
opening as quickly as possible.

Refitting

24 Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sensor’s threads.
Remove the material used to plug the sensor
hole (where applicable), and quickly install the
sensor to prevent coolant loss. Tighten the
sensor to the specified torque wrench setting,
and plug in its electrical connector.
25 Refit the resonator, top-up the cooling
system (see Chapter 1) and run the engine,
checking for leaks.

Coolant low level switch

Testing

26 The switch is a reed-type unit mounted in
the bottom of the cooling system expansion
tank, activated by a magnetic float. If the
coolant level falls to the “MIN” level or less,
the appropriate bulb lights in the warning
display.
27 If the bulb fails to light during the 5-
second bulb test, check the bulb, and renew if
necessary as described in Chapter 12.
28 To check the switch itself, unplug its
electrical connector, and use an ohmmeter to
measure the resistance across the switch

terminals. With the float up, a resistance of 
90 ohms should be measured; when it is
down, the resistance should increase to
approximately 150 kilohms.
29 If the results obtained from the check are
significantly different from those expected,
the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
30 If the switch and bulb are proven to be
sound, the fault must be in the wiring or in the
auxiliary warning control assembly (see
Chapter 12).

Removal

31 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
32 Remove the expansion tank (see Sec-
tion 7).
33 Unplug the switch electrical connector.
34 Release the switch by twisting its retainer
anti-clockwise, then withdraw it.

Refitting

35 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Refill the cooling system (see
Chapter 1). Start the engine, and check for
coolant leaks when it is fully warmed-up.

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Radiator

Removal

Note: If leakage is the reason for removing the
radiator, bear in mind that minor leaks can
often be cured using a radiator sealant with
the radiator in situ.
Remove the radiator fan and shroud
assembly (see Section 5).
Disconnect the bottom hose from the
radiator.
If the vehicle has automatic transmission,
disconnect the fluid cooler lines, and plug the
lines and fittings.
If the vehicle has air conditioning, unscrew
the condenser mounting nuts or bolts, detach
the condenser from the radiator, and tie it to
the engine compartment front crossmember. 

7 Radiator and expansion tank -

removal, inspection and refitting

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems  3•5

3

6.9  Location (arrowed) of coolant

temperature gauge sender

6.15  Location (arrowed) of coolant

temperature sensor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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