Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 81

14 Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
15 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
16 Support the weight of the
engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with
a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
17 Unscrew the six nuts securing the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting
bracket, then withdraw the bracket. Unbolt
the auxiliary drivebelt’s idler pulley (see
illustration).
18 Unbolt the cylinder head front and rear
support plates (see illustrations).
19 Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 10 and 13); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
20 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 9).
21 Working in the reverse of the sequence
shown in illustration 14.32C, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.

22 Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly (see illustration). Remove the
gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.

Refitting

23 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care, as the soft aluminium alloy is
easily damaged. Also, make sure that the
carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any of the engine’s
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the
cylinder block. Clean all the pistons in the
same way.

24 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
25 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part B of this
Chapter, Section 7, if necessary.
26 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
27 Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from one edge point to the front of
the vehicle (see illustration).
28 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
29 As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where
the locating dowels are fitted, as shown);
ensure that approximately 70 mm of stud
protrudes above the gasket.
30 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels (see illustration). Unscrew the guide
studs (if used) when the head is in place.
31 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry (do not
oil their threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
32 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,

2A•18 In-car engine repair procedures

14.17  Unbolt auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley

14 18A  Remove cylinder head front . . .

14.18B  . . . and rear support plates

14.22  Using an engine hoist to lift off the

cylinder head complete with manifolds

14.27  Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth)

“A” are at front and marking “B” is

upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket

on dowels “C”

To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After

cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.

then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head
bolts in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note: Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must not be re-
torqued.
33 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and pulleys (see
Sections 10, 11, 12 and 13, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the position described in
paragraph 8 of Section 10.
34 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 10.
35 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
(a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

(b) When reassembling the

engine/transmission right-hand mounting,
renew the self-locking nuts, and do not
allow the mounting to twist as the middle
two of the bracket’s six nuts are
tightened.

(c) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the

engine oil.

(d) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil

or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.

Removal

Note: To carry out this task with the
engine/transmission installed in the vehicle
requires the assistance of at least one person,
plus the equipment necessary to raise and
support the front of the vehicle (high enough
that the sump can be withdrawn from
underneath), and to lift and support the
complete engine/transmission unit 2 to 

3 inches from its mountings while the vehicle
is raised. Precise details of the procedure will
depend on the equipment available - the
following is typical.

The full procedure outlined below must be

followed, so that the mating surfaces can be
cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-tight
joint on reassembly, and so that the sump
can be aligned correctly; depending on your
skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle.

Note that the sump gasket must be

renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1 With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove
and discard the oil filter, so that it can be
renewed with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
4 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from
the radiator union and from the (heater)
coolant pipe. Unbolt the coolant pipe from
the sump; if they will prevent sump removal,
disconnect or release the coolant hoses from
the oil cooler unions (where fitted).
5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the power

steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
6 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor and, where
fitted, the oil level sensor wiring - unclip the
connectors to release the wiring where
necessary.
7 Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, trace the fluid cooler lines from
the transmission to the radiator, and release
them from any clips etc, so that they have as
much movement as possible.
8 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
9 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4 for details).
10 Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adaptor plate.
11 Unplugging the two electrical connectors,
disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnecting the crankcase breather
hose from the cylinder head cover, remove
the complete air cleaner assembly with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
12 Take the weight of the engine/
transmission unit using the lifting eyes
provided on the cylinder head; bolt on

15 Sump - removal and refitting

In-car engine repair procedures  2A•19

2A

14.32B  . . . and to third stage using angle

gauge

14.32C  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

Note: View from rear of vehicle

15.12  Equipment must be available to raise
and support engine/transmission unit while

vehicle is raised, to allow sump removal

14.30  Refitting cylinder head - note

fabricated guide studs (arrowed)

14.32A  Tightening cylinder head bolts (to

first and second stages) using torque

wrench . . .

additional lifting eyes where required (see
illustration). Remove completely the
engine/transmission front mounting, unscrew
the rear mounting’s centre bolt, and unbolt
the left-hand mounting from the body.
Unscrew the six nuts securing the right-hand
mounting bracket, and withdraw the bracket.
13 Being careful to watch the wiring, coolant
hoses, fluid cooler pipes or gearchange
linkage and transmission support rods (where
appropriate), and the radiator electric cooling
fan, to ensure that nothing is trapped,
stretched or damaged, lift the
engine/transmission unit by 2 to 3 inches and
support it securely.
14 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump
with the palm of the hand, then lower the
sump and withdraw it with the
engine/transmission lower adaptor plate; note
the presence of any shims between the sump
and transmission.
15 Remove and discard the sump gasket;
this must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
16 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-up/
strainer pipe and to clean it (see Section 16).

Refitting

17 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean

rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
18 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
(a) Check that the mating surfaces of the

sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
the transmission are absolutely clean and
flat. Any shims found on removal of the
sump must be refitted in their original
locations.

(b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier. Without delay - the sump
bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to
20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer
up the sump and engine/transmission
lower adaptor plate, and refit the bolts,
tightening them lightly at first (see
illustration).

(c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission

lower adaptor plate is correctly located,
firmly press the sump against the
transmission, and tighten the
transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.

(d) Without disturbing the position of the

sump, and working in a diagonal
sequence from the centre outwards,
tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.

(e) Proceed to paragraph 20.
19 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine and transmission separated (in or out
of the vehicle), proceed as follows:
(a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier (see illustration). Without
delay - the sump bolts must be fully
tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of
applying the sealant - offer up the sump
to the cylinder block/crankcase, and
insert the sump bolts, tightening them
lightly at first.

(b) Using a suitable straight edge to check

alignment across the flat-machined faces
of each, move the sump as necessary so
that its left-hand face - including any
shims found on removal - is flush with
that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see
illustration). Without disturbing the
position of the sump, and working in a
diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.

(c) Check again that both faces are flush

before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt
the sump again, clean the mating
surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to
ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

(d) If it is not possible to achieve exact

alignment by moving the sump, shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm
(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-
coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy
(see illustration).

20 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points.
(a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

(b) Always renew any self-locking nuts

disturbed on removal.

(c) Lower the engine/transmission unit into

place, and reassemble the rear, left-hand

2A•20 In-car engine repair procedures

15.17  Ensure gasket is located correctly in

sump groove

15.18  Engine/transmission lower adaptor

plate (arrowed) must be refitted with sump

15.19A  Apply sealant (arrowed) as

directed when refitting sump

15.19B  Checking alignment of sump with

cylinder block/crankcase

15.19C  Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase

alignment shims

1  Fitting points on sump      2  Shim

and right-hand mountings. Do not yet
release the hoist; the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be
taken by the mountings until all are
correctly aligned.

(d) Fitting the Ford service tool in place of the

front mounting, tighten the
engine/transmission mounting fasteners
to their specified torque wrench settings,
and in the sequence described in Part B
of this Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49
and 50.

(e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(f)

Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).

(g) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks

once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.

Removal

Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pump

pressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.

In addition to the new pump gasket and

other replacement parts required, read
through Section 15, and ensure that the
necessary tools and facilities are available.
1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 10).
2 Withdraw the crankshaft toothed pulley
and the thrustwasher behind it, noting which
way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see
Section 11).
3 Remove the sump (see Section 15).
4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase 

(see illustration). Withdraw

and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.

Inspection

6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration).
7 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
8 The oil pressure relief valve can be

dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, apply the handbrake securely and
raise its front end, supporting it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to provide access to the valve.
9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10 Reassembly is the reverse of the
dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.

Refitting

11 The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration).
13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/
crankcase on each side of the crankshaft
(see illustration). Being careful not to disturb

16 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

In-car engine repair procedures  2A•21

2A

16.9B  . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief

valve spring and plunger

16.12  Use new gasket when refitting oil

pump

16.13  Check the oil pump is positioned

correctly

16.5  Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

oil pump

16.6  Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor

16.9A  Unscrew threaded plug - seen

through right-hand wheel arch . . .