Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 26

which pulley, disconnect the first cable end
nipple from the throttle actuator’s upper
pulley, then slide the cable outer upwards out
of the actuator housing. Disconnect the
second cable in the same way from the
actuator’s lower pulley.
6 Working in the passenger compartment,
reach up to the top of the accelerator pedal.
Pull the end fitting and collar out of the pedal,
then release the cable inner wire through the
slot in the pedal. Tie a length of string to the
end of the cable.
7 Returning to the engine compartment, pull
the cable through the bulkhead until the string
can be untied and the pedal-to-actuator cable
removed.

Refitting

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Use the string to draw the pedal-
to-actuator cable through the bulkhead.
Ensure that each cable end is connected to
the correct actuator pulley.
9 Adjust both cables as described below.

Adjustment

Note: Both sections of the cable must be
adjusted together, even if only one has been
disturbed.
10 Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
11 Remove the metal clip from the adjuster
of each cable section (see illustration), and
lubricate the adjusters’ grommets with soapy
water.
12 Remove any slack by pulling both cable
outers as far as possible out of their
respective adjusters.
13 Unplug the TCS throttle actuator’s
electrical connector, and prise off its cover.
Lock both pulleys together by pushing a
locking pin (a pin punch or a similar tool of
suitable size) into their alignment holes.
Disconnect the actuator-to-throttle housing
cable’s end nipple from the throttle linkage.
14 Have an assistant depress the accelerator
pedal fully. The pedal-to-actuator cable outer
will move back into the adjuster; hold it there,
and refit the clip.
15 Connect the actuator-to-throttle housing
cable end nipple to the throttle linkage, and

check that the cable outer’s grommet is
correctly secured in the housing bracket.
16 Again have the assistant depress the
accelerator pedal fully. The actuator-to-
throttle housing cable outer will move back
into the adjuster; hold it there, and refit the
clip.
17 Remove the locking pin from the pulleys.
Check that the throttle valve moves smoothly
and easily from the fully-closed to the fully-
open position and back again, as the
assistant depresses and releases the
accelerator pedal. Re-adjust the cable(s) if
required.
18 When the setting is correct, refit the TCS
throttle actuator’s cover and electrical
connector, then refit the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).

1 Disconnect the cable inner wire from the
pedal - see Section 5 or 6, as appropriate.
2 Undo the retaining nuts and bolt, then
withdraw the pedal assembly (see
illustration).
3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Adjust the cable(s) as described in
the relevant Section of this Chapter.

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t

smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a Class B type
fire extinguisher on hand.

Fuel pump operation check

1 Switch on the ignition and listen for the fuel
pump (the sound of an electric motor running,
audible from beneath the rear seats). Assuming
there is sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump
should start and run for approximately one or
two seconds, then stop, each time the ignition
is switched on. Note: If the pump runs
continuously all the time the ignition is switched
on, the electronic control system is running in
the backup (or “limp-home”) mode referred to
by Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
ECU itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system, using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time trying to test the
system without such facilities.
2 Listen for fuel return noises from the fuel
pressure regulator. It should be possible to
feel the fuel pulsing in the regulator and in the
feed hose from the fuel filter.
3 If the pump does not run at all, check the
fuse, relay and wiring (see Chapter 6).

Fuel pressure check

3 A fuel pressure gauge, equipped with an
adaptor to suit the Schrader-type valve on the
fuel rail pressure test/release fitting
(identifiable by its blue plastic cap, and
located on the union of the fuel feed line and
the fuel rail) is required for the following
procedure. If the Ford special tool 29-033 is
available (see Section 2), the tool can be
attached to the valve, and a conventional-type
pressure gauge attached to the tool.
4 If using the service tool, ensure that its tap
is turned fully anti-clockwise, then attach it to
the valve. Connect the pressure gauge to the
service tool. If using a fuel pressure gauge
with its own adaptor, connect it in accordance
with its maker’s manuals (see illustration).
5 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note
the gauge reading as soon as the pressure
stabilises, and compare it with the pressure
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
(a) If the pressure is high, check for a

restricted fuel return line. If the line is
clear, renew the pressure regulator.

8 Fuel pump/fuel pressure -

check

7 Accelerator pedal - 

removal and refitting

Fuel and exhaust systems  4•5

4

6.11  Location of TCS throttle actuator-to-

throttle housing cable adjuster (arrowed)

7.2  Removing the accelerator pedal

assembly

8.4  A fuel pressure gauge, equipped with

an adaptor to suit the Schrader-type valve

on the fuel rail pressure test/release fitting,

is needed to check fuel pressure

(b) If the pressure is low, pinch the fuel return

line. If the pressure now goes up, renew
the fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure
does not increase, check the fuel feed
line, the fuel pump and the fuel filter.

6 Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel
pressure regulator; the pressure shown on the
gauge should increase. Note the increase in
pressure, and compare it with that listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. If the pressure
increase is not as specified, check the
vacuum hose and pressure regulator.
7 Reconnect the regulator vacuum hose, and
switch off the engine. Verify that the fuel
pressure stays at the specified level for five
minutes after the engine is turned off.
8 Carefully disconnect the fuel pressure
gauge. Be sure to cover the fitting with a rag
before slackening it. Mop up any spilt petrol.
9 Run the engine, and check that there are no
fuel leaks.

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke,
or allow open flames or bare light bulbs,
near the work area. Don’t work in a garage
where a natural gas-type appliance (such
as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a
pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with
soap and water. When you perform any
kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a Class B type
fire extinguisher on hand.
Note: Ford specify the use of their service tool
23-038 (a large box spanner with projecting teeth
to engage the fuel pump/sender unit retaining
ring’s slots) for this task. While alternatives are
possible, as shown below, in view of the difficulty
experienced in removing and refitting the
pump/sender unit, owners are strongly advised
to obtain this tool before starting work. The help
of an assistant will be required.
1 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. 

Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that

fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.

2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
3 Unbolt or fold forwards (as appropriate) the
rear seat base cushion (see Chapter 11).
Withdraw from the vehicle’s floor the grommet
covering the fuel pump/sender unit. Wash off
any dirt from the tank’s top surface, and dry it;
use a vacuum cleaner to clean the immediate
surroundings of the vehicle’s interior, to
reduce the risk of introducing water, dirt and
dust into the tank while it is open.
4 Unplug the fuel pump/sender unit’s
electrical connector (see illustration).
5 To disconnect the fuel feed and return
pipes from the unit, release each pipe’s
coupling, by squeezing together the
protruding locking lugs on each union and
carefully pulling the coupling apart. Use rag to
soak up any spilt fuel. Where the couplings
are difficult to separate, use a pair of pliers
and a block of wood as shown, to lever the
pipe out of the union. Considerable force may

be required, but be as careful as possible to
avoid damaging any of the components (see
illustration).
6 Release the fuel pump/sender unit’s
retaining ring by turning it anti-clockwise. As
noted above, Ford recommend the use of
service tool 23-038. For those without access
to such equipment, a hammer and drift, or a
pair of slip-jointed pliers, will serve as an
adequate substitute - at least for removal (see
illustration).
7 Withdraw the fuel pump/fuel gauge sender
unit, taking care not to bend the float arm. The
float arm is mounted on a spring-loaded
extension, to hold it closely against the
bottom of the tank. Note the sealing ring; this
must be renewed whenever it is disturbed
(see illustrations).
8 On refitting, use a new sealing ring, and
ensure that the gauze filter over the base of
the pump pick-up is clean.
9 Align the pump/sender unit with the tank
opening, and refit it, ensuring that the float
arm is not bent. Insert the unit so that the float
arm slides correctly up the extension, until the
unit’s top mounting plate can be aligned with
the tank opening and pressed onto the sealing
ring. This may require a considerable amount
of pressure; if so, be careful to avoid
damaging any of the components. The Ford
service tool provides the best way of holding

9 Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender

unit - removal and refitting

4•6 Fuel and exhaust systems

9.4  Unplugging the fuel pump/fuel gauge

sender unit electrical connector (arrowed)

9.5  If fuel couplings are difficult to release,

use pliers and a block of wood as shown

to prise pipe end out of union - be careful

not to damage pipes or unions

9.6  Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit’s

retaining ring can be released using

ordinary tools as shown. Correct service

tool will probably be required on refitting

9.7A  Removing fuel pump/fuel gauge

sender unit - take care not to bend float

arm, and note how it is fitted on spring-

loaded extension

9.7B  Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit’s

sealing ring must be renewed whenever it

is disturbed

the ring square to the tank and turning it at the
same time.
10 Maintain the pressure while an assistant
refits and engages the retaining ring. When
the ring is engaged in the tank lugs, turn it
clockwise to tighten it until it is secured.
11 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal. Observe the colour-
coding to ensure that the fuel pipes are
reconnected to the correct unions.

Warning: The fuel system pressure
must be released before any part
of the system is disturbed - see
Section 2. Petrol is extremely

flammable, so take extra precautions when
you work on any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance (such as a water heater or clothes
dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill
any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
immediately with soap and water. When you
perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses, and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1 A fuel tank drain plug is not provided; it is
therefore preferable to carry out the removal
operation when the tank is nearly empty.
Before proceeding, disconnect the battery
negative (earth) lead, and syphon or hand-
pump the remaining fuel from the tank.
Alternatively, disconnect the feed pipe from
the fuel filter (see Chapter 1), and connect a
spare length of hose to this so that when the
ignition is switched on, the fuel pump will
empty the tank into a clean container. If this
approach is adopted, ensure that the
container is large enough to take all the fuel in
the tank, and be careful to take all suitable
precautions to prevent the risk of fire. Note:
Before disconnecting or opening any part of
the fuel system, relieve the residual pressure
(see Section 2), and equalise tank pressure by
removing the fuel filler cap. Also disconnect
the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chap-
ter 5, Section 1.

2 Unbolt or fold forwards (as appropriate) the
rear seat base cushion (see Chapter 11).
Withdraw from the vehicle’s floor the grommet
covering the fuel pump/sender unit. Unplug
the fuel pump/sender unit’s electrical
connector, and disconnect the fuel return pipe
(coded red) from the unit (see Section 9).
3 Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Get underneath and
familiarise yourself with the layout of the fuel
tank assembly before proceeding (see
illustration). 

Warning: Do not place any part of
your body under a vehicle when
it’s supported only by a jack!

4 Either remove the fuel filter, or disconnect
its outlet pipe (see Chapter 1).

5 Unhook the exhaust system rubber
mountings. Lower the system onto a suitable
support, so that the front downpipe-to-
exhaust manifold joint is not strained, or
remove it completely (see Section 17).
6 Unbolt the rear suspension anti-roll bar
mounting clamps (see illustration). Swing the
bar down as far as possible - if clearance is
very restricted, it is advisable to remove the
bar completely (see Chapter 10).
7 Disconnect the flexible vent hose from the
moulded plastic fuel tank filler neck as
follows:
(a) On Saloon and Hatchback models, reach

up into the right-hand side aperture in the
rear suspension crossmember, slacken
the clamp, and work the hose off the filler
neck stub. This is a job for someone with
small hands, good tools and a lot of
patience! (see illustration).

10 Fuel tank - 

removal and refitting

Fuel and exhaust systems  4•7

4

10.6  Unbolt rear anti-roll bar mounting

clamps (one arrowed) when preparing to

remove the fuel tank

10.7A  Fuel filler vent hose clamp (arrowed)

is accessible through right-hand side

aperture in rear suspension crossmember

on Saloon and Hatchback models . . .

10.7B  . . . on Estate models, it is immediately

above rear suspension anti-roll bar

10.4  Fuel tank assembly

1  Moulded plastic fuel filler
neck
2  Fuel tank
3  Flexible vent hose
4  Roll-over valves
5  Anti-trickle fill valve

6  Fuel pump/fuel gauge 

sender unit

7  Fuel return pipe union
8  Heat shield
9  Fuel filter

10  Fuel pump-to-filter feed

pipe

11  Fuel tank retaining strap - 

2 off

(b) On Estate models, slacken the clamp

immediately above the rear anti-roll bar,
and work the hose off the filler neck stub
(see illustration).

8 Unscrew the six retaining nuts, and
withdraw the exhaust system’s rear heat
shield from the underbody (see illustration).
9 Support the tank with a trolley jack or
similar. Place a sturdy plank between the
support and the tank, to protect the tank.
10 Unscrew the bolt at the front of each
retaining strap, and pivot them down until
they are hanging out of the way. Note the
earth lead under the left-hand strap’s bolt -
clean the mating surfaces before the tank is
refitted, so that clean, metal-to-metal contact
is ensured.
11 Lower the tank enough to unclip the fuel
return pipe (coded red) from its top surface,
then disconnect the charcoal canister’s
vapour hose from the union at the top rear of
the tank (see illustration). If you have any
doubts, clearly label the fuel lines and hoses,
and their respective unions. Plug the hoses, to
prevent leakage and contamination of the fuel
system.
12 Remove the tank from the vehicle,
releasing it from the filler neck stub. While the
tank is removed, unhook the retaining straps
(twist them through 90° to do so), and check
that they and their locations in the underbody
are in good condition.
13 With the fuel tank removed, the filler neck
can be withdrawn. It is secured by a single
screw in the filler opening, and by two bolts to
the underbody.
14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t

smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance

(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a Class B type
fire extinguisher on hand.
1 Any repairs to the fuel tank or filler neck
should be carried out by a professional who
has experience in this critical and potentially-
dangerous work. Even after cleaning and
flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes
can remain and ignite during repair of the
tank.
2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle,
it should not be placed in an area where
sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes
coming out of the tank. Be especially careful
inside garages where a natural gas-type
appliance is located, because the pilot light
could cause an explosion.

Warning: The fuel system
pressure must be released before
any part of the system is
disturbed - see Section 2. Petrol

is extremely flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on any part of
the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow
open flames or bare light bulbs, near the
work area. Don’t work in a garage where a
natural gas-type appliance (such as a
water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot
light is present. If you spill any fuel on your
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,
and have a Class B type fire extinguisher
on hand.
Note: Refer to illustrations 10.4 and 10.11 for
details.
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 10).
2 Prise the two valves out of the tank, and
remove the anti-trickle fill valve from its
mounting. Take care not to damage the valves
or the tank. Prise out the rubber seals from

the tank openings, and renew then if they are
worn, distorted, or if either has been leaking.
3 If either valve is thought to be faulty, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer as to whether they
can be renewed individually. If not, the
complete valve and pipe assembly must be
renewed.
4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that both roll-over valves
are pressed securely into their seals, so that
there can be no fuel leaks.

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
2 Remove the trim panel from the left-hand
footwell.
3 Peel back the sound-insulating material
from the switch, and undo its two retaining
screws (see illustration).
4 Unplug the switch electrical connector, and
withdraw the switch.
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the switch is reset by
depressing its red button.

These models are equipped with a

Sequential Electronically-controlled Fuel
Injection (SEFI) system. The system is
composed of three basic sub-systems: fuel
system, air induction system and electronic
control system. Note: Refer to illustrations
2.1A and 2.1B of Chapter 6 for further
information on the components of the system.

Fuel system

An electric fuel pump located inside the fuel

tank supplies fuel under pressure to the fuel
rail, which distributes fuel evenly to all
injectors. A filter between the fuel pump and
the fuel rail protects the components of the
system. A pressure regulator controls the
system pressure in relation to inlet tract
depression. From the fuel rail, fuel is injected

14 Fuel injection system/engine

management system - general
information

13 Fuel cut-off switch - 

removal and refitting

12 Roll-over valves - 

removal and refitting

11 Fuel tank cleaning and repair -

general information

4•8 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.8  Exhaust system must be lowered and

heat shield removed to enable fuel tank

removal - arrows show location of

retaining strap front bolts

10.11  Lower fuel tank - do not distort filler

neck stub (A) - and unclip (red-coded) fuel

return pipe (B), then disconnect charcoal

canister’s vapour hose (C)

13.3  Fuel cut-off switch retaining screws

(arrowed)