Ford Orion. Manual - part 5

drivebelt, reach up between the body and the
engine (above the crankshaft pulley), and
apply a spanner to the hexagon in the centre
of the automatic tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the
tensioner pulley clockwise to release its
pressure on the drivebelt, then slip the
drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley, and release
the tensioner again (see illustration). 
Note that on certain models, a self-
cocking tensioner is fitted, and that this will
remain in the released position. Working from
the wheel arch or engine compartment as
necessary, and noting its routing, slip the

drivebelt off the remaining pulleys and
withdraw it.
24 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their
grooves are clean, and removing all traces of
oil and grease. Check that the tensioner
works properly, with strong spring pressure
being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise,
and a smooth return to the limit of its travel
when released.
25 If the original drivebelt is being refitted,
use the marks or notes made on removal, to
ensure that it is installed to run in the same
direction as it was previously. To fit the
drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so
that it is centred in their grooves, and not
overlapping their raised sides, and is routed
correctly  (see illustrations). Start at 
the top, and work down to finish at the
crankshaft pulley; rotate the tensioner pulley
clockwise, slip the drivebelt onto the
crankshaft pulley, then release the tensioner
again.
26 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft 
through at least two full turns clockwise to
settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then 
check that the drivebelt is properly 
installed.
27 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover and
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.

12 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

1

Caution: Renewal of air
conditioning hoses must be left
to a dealer service department or
air conditioning specialist who

has the equipment to depressurise the
system safely. Never remove air
conditioning components or hoses until
the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compart-
ment can cause the deterioration of the rubber
and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory
and emissions systems operation. Periodic
inspection should be made for cracks, loose
clamps, material hardening and leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-
diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that is cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
squeezed (see illustration). If you are using

Every 10 000 miles  

1•17

11.25  When installing the auxiliary drivebelt, make sure that it is

centred - it must not overlap either edge of the grooved pulleys

12.2  Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst

possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator

or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

11.23  Automatic drivebelt tensioner -

“polyvee” type drivebelt

Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension

1

non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so
have to renew the coolant every two years or
so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that
time, regardless of their apparent condition.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check to be sure they haven’t lost their
tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps
aren’t used, make sure the hose has not
expanded and/or hardened where it slips over
the fitting, allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore
the puddle of water which will be left if the air
conditioning system is in use. As soon as a
leak is detected, its source must be traced
and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for
some time, it is usually necessary to use a
steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to
clean away the accumulated dirt, so that
(when the engine is run again) the exact
source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be colour-coded, or to be identified by
coloured stripes moulded into them. Various
systems require hoses with different wall
thicknesses, collapse resistance and
temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7 Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the
vacuum-hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine

components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be taken
when inspecting or servicing fuel
system components. Work in a

well-ventilated area, and do not allow open
flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.)
or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring-type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
15 Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.

13 Engine compartment wiring

check 

2

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly, after previous work
has been carried out.

3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring that
they are clean, securely fastened, and that each
is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as
appropriate. If any connector shows external
signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or
green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is
thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and
cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the
connector pins are severely corroded, the
connector must be renewed; note that this may
mean the renewal of that entire section of the
loom - see your local Ford dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack
the connector with a suitable material which will
exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the
corrosion from occurring again; a Ford dealer
may be able to recommend a suitable product.
7 Check the condition of the battery
connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found (see Chap-
ter 5). Use the same techniques to ensure that
all earth points in the engine compartment
provide good electrical contact through clean,
metal-to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened. (In addition to the earth connection
at the engine lifting eye, and that from the
transmission to the body/battery, there are
others in various places, so check carefully).
8 Refer to Section 27 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.

14 Air conditioning system

check 

1

Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any fittings or
remove any components until

after the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant must be properly
discharged into an approved type of
container, at a dealer service department
or an automotive air conditioning repair
facility capable of handling the refrigerant
safely. Always wear eye protection when
disconnecting air conditioning system
fittings.

1•18

Every 10 000 miles

1 The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis, to ensure
that the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
a)

Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn
or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 11).

b)

Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,
bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.
Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil
bubbles and seepage. If there’s any
evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew
the hose(s).

c)

Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
insects and other debris. Use a “fin
comb” or compressed air to clean the
condenser.

d)

Check that the drain tube from the front
of the evaporator is clear - note that it is
normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping
from this while the system is in operation,
to the extent that quite a large puddle can
be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for
about 30 minutes at least once a month,
particularly during the Winter. Long term
non-use can cause hardening, and
subsequent failure, of the seals.
3 Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment necessary to service it, in-depth
fault diagnosis and repairs are not included in
this manual. For more complete information
on the air conditioning system, refer to the
Haynes  “Automotive Heating and Air
Conditioning Manual”.
4 The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool-air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
5 Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
6 Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting, and put the
blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
- to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment.

7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click, and the centre of
the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet
pipes at the compressor. One side should be
cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible
difference between the two pipes, there’s
something wrong with the compressor or the
system. It might be a low charge - it might be
something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning specialist.

15 Valve clearance adjustment 

2

Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.

16 Engine oil and filter change 

1

1 Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills. To avoid any possibility of scalding,
and to protect yourself from possible skin
irritants and other harmful contaminants in
used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work.
3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by
axle stands.

Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only by
an hydraulic or scissors-type jack,
or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential

problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see Section 3).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel to provide access to the
oil filter; if the additional working clearance is
required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt
cover.

Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided

with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and refit the
roadwheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see
illustrations). If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns. As the plug
releases from the threads, move it away
sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the
sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve!
Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and
check the condition of the plug’s sealing
washer; renew it if worn or damaged.
8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle; when
the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the
drain plug and its threads in the sump and
refit the plug, tightening it to the specified
torque wrench setting.
9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter

Every 10 000 miles  

1•19

16.7B  Removing the engine oil drain plug

on the Zetec engine

16.7A  Engine oil drain plug location in the

sump on HCS and CVH engines

16.2  These tools are required when

changing the engine oil and filter

1

then, using a suitable filter removal tool,
unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block;
be prepared for some oil spillage (see
illustration). Check the old filter to make sure
that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw
the filter through the wheel arch, taking care
to spill as little oil as possible.
10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific manuals supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on
the engine until it seats, then tighten it through
a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only
(see illustrations). Tighten the filter by hand
only - do not use any tools.
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.
12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants,
fluids and capacities”. Pour in half the
specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few
minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time,
until the level is up to the lower notch on the
dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre
will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper
notch.
13 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the

engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the Reference Sections of this manual.

17 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment 

4

General

1 Many of the engines fitted to Escort and
Orion models are equipped with fuel injection
systems of one sort or another which are
entirely controlled by the engine management
system. On most of these vehicles, it isn’t
possible to make any adjustments to the idle
speed or the mixture settings without
specialist test equipment of a type usually
only found at a Ford dealer or fuel injection
specialist. However, the very nature of these
highly-sophisticated systems means they
don’t go out of tune very often (if ever), so that
it’s one less maintenance operation to worry
about.
2 On carburettor and 1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected
engines, certain checks and adjustments are

necessary as part of the service requirements,
and these are described below.

Idle speed and mixture check
and adjustment - carburettor
engines

3 Before carrying out the following checks
and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped
(Section 27). To carry out the checks/
adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an
exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be
required.
4 Make sure that all electrical components are
switched off during the following procedures.
5 Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with its manufacturer’s
manuals, and insert the probe of an exhaust
gas analyser (CO meter) into the exhaust
tailpipe. As previously mentioned, these items
are essential in obtaining an accurate setting. If
they are not available, an approximate
check/adjustment can be made as a temporary
measure, providing they are further checked
out as soon as is possible using a tachometer
and a CO meter (or by a Ford dealer).
6 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it
reaches its normal operating temperature and
the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the
engine off, then disconnect the radiator
cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch
connector. Now connect a temporary wire to
the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see
illustration) to enable the fan to operate

1•20

Every 10 000 miles

17.6  Cooling fan thermostatic switch

multi-plug with temporary bridging wire

connected

16.10D  Engine oil filter (Zetec engine)

16.10C  Engine oil filter (CVH engine)

16.10B  Engine oil filter (HCS engine)

16.10A  Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring

with clean engine oil before installing the

filter on the engine

16.9  Removing the oil filter on the 

CVH engine using a strap wrench