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Takeuchi Mini Excavator TB260 (S/N 126000002~, S/N 126100003~). Operator's Manual - page 6

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 100 HOURS

EVERY 100 HOURS

CLEANING THE WATER SEPARATOR

<APPLICABLE MACHINE MODELS

126000002 OR LATER>

• Do not smoke or permit open flames

while handling fuel or working on the

fuel system.

• Stop the engine in a well-ventilated

place and allow it to cool down before

performing maintenance.

• Clean up spilled fuel immediately.

(S): Close

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Close the valve (2).

3. Loosen the ring (3), then remove the case

(4), element (5) and indicator ring (6) and

clean them.

4. Inspect the O-ring and the element (5). If

there are any scratches or other

irregularities, replace them.

5. Assemble the indicator ring (6), case (4)

and element (5) and tighten the ring (3).

6. Open the valve (2).

7. Loosen the vent plug (8) and bleed the air.

8. Tighten the vent plug (8).

Refer to “Bleeding air from the fuel

system” on page 6-8.

5-33

MAINTENANCE

AFTER THE INITIAL 250 HOURS (ONLY FOR NEW MACHINES)

AFTER THE INITIAL 250

HOURS (ONLY FOR NEW

MACHINES)

REPLACING THE HYDRAULIC OIL

RETURN FILTER

• Stop the engine and allow each part of

the machine to cool down before

performing maintenance.

· The engine, the hydraulic system and

many other parts of the machine are

hot immediately after the engine is

stopped. Touching these parts will

cause burns.

· The hydraulic oil is also hot and under

high pressure immediately after the

engine is stopped.

Be careful not to touch the oil when

loosening the cap or plug. Working on

1. Open the right side cover.

the machine under these conditions

2. Press the air breather button (2) to relieve

could result in burns or injuries due to

the internal pressure from the tank.

the hot oil spurting out.

3. Loosen the bolts and remove the flange

• Oil may spurt out if caps or filters are

(4).

removed or pipes are disconnected

4. Remove the return filter (5).

before releasing the pressure in the

5. Install a new return filter.

hydraulic system.

6. Install the flange (4) on its original position.

· Press the air breather button to relieve

7. Inspect the level with the sight gauge (1),

the internal pressure from the tank.

and replenish if the level is too low.

· When removing plugs or screws, or

Refer to “Inspecting the hydraulic oil tank

when disconnecting hoses, stand to

level and replenishing” on page 5-22.

the side and loosen them slowly to

gradually release the internal pressure

before removing.

5-34

MAINTENANCE

AFTER THE INITIAL 250 HOURS (ONLY FOR NEW MACHINES)

REPLACING THE PILOT LINE FILTER

• Stop the engine and allow each part of

the machine to cool down before

performing maintenance.

· The engine, the hydraulic system and

many other parts of the machine are

hot immediately after the engine is

stopped. Touching these parts will

cause burns.

3. Open the engine hood.

· The hydraulic oil is also hot and under

4. Turn the case (4) counterclockwise and

high pressure immediately after the

remove it.

engine is stopped.

5. Remove the element (5) and O-ring (6).

Be careful not to touch the oil when

6. Clean the inside of the case (4).

loosening the cap or plug. Working on

7. Apply a thin layer of oil on the O-ring of the

the machine under these conditions

new filter.

could result in burns or injuries due to

8. Install the new element on the filter stand

the hot oil spurting out.

(7).

• Oil may spurt out if caps or filters are

9. Apply a thin layer of oil on the new O-ring

removed or pipes are disconnected

(6).

before releasing the pressure in the

10. Install the new O-ring (6) and the case (4)

hydraulic system.

on the filter stand (7).

· Press the air breather button to relieve

11. Inspect the level with the sight gauge (1)

the internal pressure from the tank.

and replenish if the level is too low.

· When removing plugs or screws, or

Refer to “Inspecting the hydraulic oil tank

when disconnecting hoses, stand to

level and replenishing” on page 5-22.

the side and loosen them slowly to

gradually release the internal pressure

before removing.

1. Open the right side cover.

2. Press the air breather button (2) to relieve

the internal pressure from the tank.

5-35

MAINTENANCE

AFTER THE INITIAL 250 HOURS (ONLY FOR NEW MACHINES)

REPLACING THE TRAVEL MOTOR GEAR

6. Add oil through the hole of the plug (3)

OIL

until oil flows out of the hole of the plug

(2).

7. Tighten the plugs (2) and (3).

·

Plug (2) tightening torque: 12 to 18 N·m

• Stop the engine and allow the machine

(8.8 to 13.3 ft-lb)

to cool down before performing

·

Plug (3) tightening torque: 46 to 51 N·m

maintenance.

(34 to 37.6 ft-lb)

· The travel motor is hot immediately

after the engine is stopped. Touching

it will cause burns.

· The gear oil is also hot and under high

pressure immediately after the engine

is stopped.

Be careful when loosening the plugs.

Working on the machine under these

conditions could result in burns or

injuries.

• The pressure in the reduction gear case

of travel motor may cause oil or the plug

to fly out. Loosen the plug slowly to

release the pressure.

IMPORTANT: If the percentage of the

traveling time within the total operating

time is high, replace the gear oil earlier

than the specified time.

3

2

1

AG7G051

1. Set the travel motor so that plug (1) is at

the very bottom.

2. Place a pan under the plug (1).

3. Remove the plugs (1), (2) and (3) and drain

the oil.

4. Rewrap the plugs with new sealing tape.

5. Tighten the plug (1).

· Plug (1) tightening torque: 46 to 51 N·m

(34 to 37.6 ft-lb)

5-36

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 250 HOURS

CLEANING THE AIR CLEANER

• Stop the engine and allow the machine

to cool down before performing

maintenance.

· The engine, muffler, radiator and many

other parts of the machine are hot

immediately after the engine is

stopped. Touching it will cause burns.

• Wear required appropriate equipment

2. Loosen the clamps (1) and remove the

such as protective goggle and filter

dust cup (2).

mask when using compressed air, as

3. Clean the inside of the dust cup (2).

metal fragments or other objects can fly

4. Remove the primary element (3).

and cause serious injury.

To prevent dirt from getting inside the

engine, do not remove the secondary

IMPORTANT: Be careful not to scratch the

element (5).

element. Do not use an element if it is

5. Clean the inside of the body (4).

damaged.

IMPORTANT: When operating the

machine in very dusty places, perform

inspection and maintenance operations

every day.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to install the

element and dust cap securely. If not,

dust could be drawn into the cylinder,

damaging the engine.

6. Clean the primary element (3) with dried

compressed air (294 to 490 kPa or 43 to

71 psi).

First blow the air from the inside of the

element along the pleats. Then blow the

air from the outside and finally from the

inside again.

7. Light up the inside of the primary element

(3) with a light bulb, inspect it, and replace

1. Open the engine hood.

it if there are small holes or thin spots.

8. Install the primary element (3).

9. Install the dust cup (2) with its “

OBEN/TOP” mark facing up, and then

fasten it with the clamps (1).

5-38

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 250 HOURS

CLEANING THE RADIATOR FINS AND

2. Remove the screws (1) and open the

THE OIL COOLER FINS

condenser.

3. Blow compressed air on the fins to

remove mud and dirt stuck on them.

Wear required appropriate equipment

such as protective goggle and filter mask

when using compressed air, as metal

fragments or other objects can fly and

cause serious injury.

IMPORTANT: Be careful not to damage

the fins when cleaning.

• When using compressed air or

pressurized water, make sure the

pressure is no higher than 200 kPa (28

psi) and hold the nozzle sufficiently

away from the fins.

IMPORTANT: When using water, cover the

electrical system to prevent water from

getting in.

IMPORTANT: When operating the

machine in very dusty places, perform

inspection and maintenance operations

every day.

1. Open the engine hood.

5-39

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 250 HOURS

CLEANING THE AIR FILTERS (AC)

4. Loosen the screw and remove the cover

(4).

5. Remove the circulation filter (5).

6. Use compressed air or water to clean the

Wear required appropriate equipment

filters, depending on how dirty they are.

such as protective goggle and filter mask

Circulation filter (5) Part No. 05546-03101

when using compressed air, as metal

fragments or other objects can fly and

Cleaning

cause serious injury.

1. Blow dry, compressed air (138 kPa or 20

psi or less) directly on the filters from the

Clean the filters immediately after operating

inside, moving up and down along the

in dusty places.

pleats.

If the filters are clogged, the air flow is

Be sure to keep the nozzle at an adequate

reduced and a booming sound is heard from

distance from the filters.

the air conditioner unit.

2. Wash the filter with neutral detergent if it is

very dirty. Dry the filter completely after

Removing the filters

washing it.

Replacing

Replace the filter with a new one once a year

or if it is still clogged after blow-drying with

compressed air and washing.

1. Open the cab door.

2. Loosen the screw and remove the switch

box (1).

3. Remove the ventilation filter (3) from the

filter case (2).

Ventilation filter (3):

parts No. 05546-00025

5-40

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 250 HOURS

CLEANING THE CONDENSER (AC)

Wear required appropriate equipment

such as protective goggle and filter mask

when using compressed air, as metal

fragments or other objects can fly and

cause serious injury.

IMPORTANT: Be careful not to damage

the fins when cleaning.

• When using compressed air or

pressurized water, make sure the

pressure is no higher than 200kPa (28

psi) and hold the nozzle sufficiently

away from the fins.

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Clean the condenser (1).

5-41

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 250 HOURS

INSPECTING THE REFRIGERANT (GAS)

3. Inspect the refrigerant by watching the

LEVEL (AC)

flow of air bubbles through the sight glass

(2).

Refer to “Check list for refrigerant volume”

on page 5-43.

• Exposure of the eyes or hands to the

4. Check the temperature of the

cooler’s refrigerant could result in

compressor’s high pressure pipe (3) and

blindness or frostbite.

low pressure pipe (4).

Never touch the refrigerant or loosen

Refer to “Check list for refrigerant volume”

the parts of the cooling circuit.

on page 5-43.

• Keep flames away if the refrigerant gas

is leaking.

• The high-pressure pipes of the air

conditioner can be very hot (80 to 120°C

or 176 to 248°F). Be careful not to burn

yourself.

The cooling capacity decreases if the

amount of refrigerant is insufficient.

Inspect the refrigerant level using the sight

glass (2) on the top of the receiver dryer (1).

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Inspect the places for the conditions

below.

Places for inspection

Conditions

Cab door

Fully open

Temperature control

Set fully to the COOL

dial

side

Fan speed

High

Ventilation/

Circulation select

Circulation

lever

Engine speed

Maximum speed

Air conditioner

ON

switch

5-42

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 250 HOURS

Check list for refrigerant volume

Air conditioner

Normal

Abnormal

High/low

High pressure

High pressure

Little difference in

High pressure

pressure pipe

pipe is hot (80 to

pipe is warm, low

temperature

pipe is hot, low

temperature

120°C or 176 to

pressure pipe is

between the

pressure pipe is

248°F), low

slightly cool. No

high-pressure

slightly cool. A

pressure pipe is

significant

pipe and the low-

significant

cold (8 to 15°C

difference in

pressure pipe.

difference in

or 46 to 59°F).

temperature

temperature

Clear difference

between the

between the

in temperature

pipes.

pipes.

between the

pipes.

Pipe connection

Normal

Some places are

Some places are

Normal

dirty with oil.

extremely dirty

with oil.

Sight glass

Almost

Flow of bubbles

Mist-like flow is

No bubbles is

transparent with

can be seen

faintly visible.

visible, even

some bubbles.

constantly.

when the fan is

Fully transparent

Sometimes

set to High and

when the engine

transparent or

the engine is

speed is

white with

idling.

increased or

bubbles.

decreased.

Refrigerant level

Proper level

Refrigerant may

Refrigerant has

Refrigerant level

be leaking.

leaked; little is

too high

left.

If the air conditioner is not working

If the air conditioner does not work well, set the fan switch to OFF and contact your sales or

service dealer for inspection and/or repairs.

IMPORTANT: Continued use of the air conditioner when it is not working properly will

damage its various parts.

IMPORTANT: Using the air conditioner when there is no refrigerant will damage the

compressor.

IMPORTANT: Always consult your sales or service dealer for replacing the refrigerant.

Be sure to use R134a refrigerant (660 to 740 g or 1.45 to 1.63 lb.).

5-43

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 500 HOURS

5. Install the new filter by hand.

EVERY 500 HOURS

6. Tighten one more turn after the filter

REPLACING THE FUEL FILTER

packing comes in contact with the surface

of installation. (Torque when tightening

with filter wrench: 19.6 to 23.5 N·m or 14

to 17ft-lb.)

• Do not smoke or permit open flames

7. Bleed the air.

while handling fuel or working on the

Refer to “Bleeding air from the fuel

fuel system.

system” on page 6-8.

• Stop the engine in a well-ventilated

place and allow it to cool down before

performing maintenance.

• Clean up spilled fuel immediately.

<Applicable machine models 126000002

or later>

<Applicable machine models 126100003

or later>

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Turn the filter (1) counterclockwise with the

filter wrench and remove it.

3. Clean the surface of installation of the filter

stand.

4. Apply a thin layer of oil on the packing of

the new filter.

5-44

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 500 HOURS

REPLACING THE WATER SEPARATOR

<Applicable machine models 126100003

FILTER

or later>

• Do not smoke or permit open flames

while handling fuel or working on the

fuel system.

• Stop the engine in a well-ventilated

place and allow it to cool down before

performing maintenance.

• Clean up spilled fuel immediately.

<Applicable machine models 126000002

or later>

(S): Close

If equipped with filter for high sulfur fuel

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Close the valve (2) of the water separator

(1).

3. Place a pan for catching fuel under the

drain hose.

4. Loose the air-bleeding plug (8) and the

drain plug (7) to discharge fuel from inside.

5. Remove the sensor wiring coupler (3).

6. Remove the case (4) with the filter wrench.

7. Remove the element (5), and then clean

the case. When doing the above, be

careful not to damage the sensor.

1. Open the engine hood.

8. Replace the packing with a new one and

2. Place a pan under the filter (1).

lubricate it with diesel fuel.

3. Remove the plug (2) and drain the fuel

9. Install the new element (5) on the filter

from the filter case (3).

stand.

4. loosen the bolt (4) right under the filter (1)

10. Tighten the case (4) by hand. Be sure to

and remove the filter case (3).

do it by hand.

5. Replace the element (5) in the filter case

Tightening torque: 27 to 33 N·m (20 to

(3) with a new one.

24.6 ft-lb)

6. Install the filter case (3) and tighten the

11. Install the sensor wiring coupler (3).

bolt (4).

12. Tighten the drain plug (7).

7. Tighten the plug (2) and bleed air.

13. Bleed air.

Refer to “Bleeding air from the fuel

Refer to “Bleeding air from the fuel

system” on page 6-8.

system” on page 6-8.

5-45

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 1000 HOURS

1. Open the engine hood and the side cover.

10. Repeat the steps 4 to 8 to rinse the

cooling system.

11. Tighten the drain plug (4).

12. Take time and slowly add the new

coolant (mixture of antifreeze and tap

water) to the radiator through the fill port

until it is full.

13. Close the radiator cap (3).

14. Warm up the engine. Use the meters to

check that there are no irregularities in

the cooling system at this time.

15. Increase the water temperature to at

least 90°C (194°F). Then, run the engine

2. Gradually loosen the radiator cap (3) to

for about 10 minutes with the thermostat

release the internal pressure, and then

kept open.

remove the cap.

16. Stop the engine, wait until the cooling

water temperature becomes lower, and

then check the level of coolant in the

radiator.

If necessary, add cooling water until the

radiator is full.

17. Close the radiator cap (3).

18. Clean the interior of the reserve tank (1),

and then add coolant to the upper limit

(H).

19. When the coolant has been replaced,

inspect the coolant level once again after

operating the machine.

3. Place a pan for catching the waste coolant

Once the machine is operated, the

under the drain plug (4), and then loosen

coolant is distributed throughout the

the drain plug (4) to drain the coolant.

entire system, resulting in the lower

4. Tighten the drain plug (4).

coolant level.

5. Add tap water to the radiator through the

Replenish the cooling water that has

coolant fill port up to the top of the port.

been used.

Take time and slowly add water, so that no

air enters the radiator.

6. Close the radiator cap (3).

7. Start the engine and run it at a speed

slightly above low idling. Raise the water

temperature to at least 90°C (194°F), and

then run the engine for about 10 minutes

with the thermostat open.

8. Stop the engine, wait until the cooling

water temperature becomes lower, and

then remove the drain plug (4) to drain the

water.

9. After draining, clean the cooling system

using a cleaning agent. When using the

cleaning agent, follow the instructions

included with the agent.

5-47

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 1000 HOURS

REPLACING THE AIR CLEANER ELEMENT

7. Install the new elements. Press them firmly

into the body (4).

8. Install the dust cup (2) with its “

OBEN/TOP” mark facing up, and then

Stop the engine and allow the machine to

fasten it with the clamps (1).

cool down before performing

maintenance.

• The engine, muffler, radiator and many

other parts of the machine are hot

immediately after the engine is stopped.

Touching these parts will cause burns.

IMPORTANT: Do not use an element if its

pleats, gaskets or seals are damaged.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to install the

element and dust cap securely. If not,

dust could be drain into the cylinder,

damaging the engine.

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Loosen the clamps (1) and remove the

dust cup (2).

3. Clean the inside of the dust cup (2).

4. Remove the primary element (3).

Do not remove the secondary element yet.

5. Clean the inside of the body (4).

6. Remove the secondary element (5).

5-48

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 1000 HOURS

REPLACING THE AIR BREATHER FILTER

INSPECTING AND ADJUSTING THE

ENGINE VALVE CLEARANCE

This operation requires experience. Ask your

Oil may spurt out if caps or filters are

sales or service dealer for it.

removed or pipes are disconnected

before releasing the pressure in the

hydraulic system.

INSPECTING THE ENGINE

• Press the air breather button to relieve

COMPRESSION PRESSURE

the tank pressure.

This operation requires experience. Ask your

sales or service dealer for it.

INSPECTING AND CLEANING THE

ENGINE STARTER AND THE ALTERNATOR

This operation requires experience. Ask your

sales or service dealer for it.

1. Open the right side cover.

2. Press the button (K) to relieve the internal

pressure from the tank.

3. Remove the nut (N) on the air breather.

4. Remove the cover (H).

5. Replace the filter (A).

6. Install the cover (H) on the body (B).

7. Install the nut (N).

5-49

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 4000 HOURS

EVERY 4000 HOURS

REPLACING THE HYDRAULIC OIL AND

CLEANING THE SUCTION STRAINER

• Stop the engine and allow each part of

the machine to cool down before

performing maintenance.

· The engine, the hydraulic system and

many other parts of the machine are

hot immediately after the engine is

stopped. Touching these parts will

cause burns.

· The hydraulic oil is also hot and under

high pressure immediately after the

engine is stopped.

Be careful not to touch the oil when

loosening the cap or plug. Working on

the machine under these conditions

could result in burns or injuries due to

the hot oil spurting out.

• Oil may spurt out if caps or filters are

removed or pipes are disconnected

before releasing the pressure in the

3. Press the button (2) to relieve the internal

hydraulic system.

pressure from the tank.

· Press the air breather button to relieve

4. Replace the air breather filter (A).

the internal pressure from the tank.

Refer to “Replacing the air breather filter”

· When removing plugs or screws, or

on page 5-49.

when disconnecting hoses, stand to

5. Remove the plug (3).

the side and loosen them slowly to

6. Loosen the bolts and remove the flange

gradually release the internal pressure

(4).

before removing.

7. Remove the return filter (5).

8. Place a pan under the plug (6) to catch the

1. Slew 60° clockwise and set the machine

waste oil.

to the hydraulic oil level inspection

9. Remove the cap (B), install the connector

posture.

(C), and then drain the hydraulic oil. (The

Refer to “Inspecting the hydraulic oil tank

oil comes out once the screw is

level and replenishing” on page 5-22.

tightened.)

2. Open the right side cover.

10. Loosen the bolts and remove the flange

(7).

11. Remove the suction strainer (8) and

clean it.

12. Clean the inside of the hydraulic oil tank.

13. Remove the connector (C) and install the

cap (B).

14. Install the suction strainer (8) on the tank

and then install the flange (7).

5-53

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 4000 HOURS

15. Install the new return filter (5) and the

• Cylinders

flange (4) on the tank.

1. Start the engine, let it run at a low-idling

16. Add hydraulic oil from the hole of plug (3)

speed for 10 minutes.

up to the level between the upper limit

2. Maintain the engine at low idle, and then

(H) and the lower limit (L) in the sight

slowly extend and retract each cylinder 4

gauge (1).

or 5 times, without letting them reach the

17. Tighten the plug (3).

stroke end.

18. Bleed air from the hydraulic oil circuit

3. While running the engine at high speed,

following “Bleeding air” below.

slowly extend and retract each cylinder 4

19. Set the machine to the hydraulic oil level

or 5 times, without letting them reach the

inspection posture and inspect the oil

stroke end.

level after the oil cools.

4. Return the engine speed to low idle, and

Refer to “Inspecting the hydraulic oil tank

then slowly extend and retract each

level and replenishing” on page 5-22.

cylinder 4 or 5 times to the stroke end.

Bleeding air

IMPORTANT: After replacing the hydraulic

oil or hydraulic devices, or after

performing maintenance of the hydraulic

devices, bleed air from the hydraulic

circuits and hydraulic devices. Failure to

do so may damage the hydraulic devices.

• Hydraulic pump

1

AK7G092

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Loosen the vent plug (1) on the hydraulic

pump.

3. Once hydraulic oil overflows from the vent

plug hole (1), tighten the vent plug (1).

5-54

MAINTENANCE

EVERY 4000 HOURS

• Emergency shut-off valve

Arm

This operation is dangerous and requires

experience. Ask your sales or service

dealer for help.

If air is not released, the working

equipment could become slow in reacting

to the operation of the operator and show

unexpected behavior.

When removing plugs or screws, or when

disconnecting hoses, stand to the side

and loosen them slowly to gradually

4. Loosen the hose (B) slowly.

release the internal pressure before

5. Slowly move the arm in the “Arm in”

removing.

direction a little until there are no more air

bubbles coming from the hose (B) joint.

1. Place a pan under the hose (A) or (B) to

6. Tighten the hose (B).

catch the waste oil.

2. Start the engine and run it at low idle.

3. Fully lower the safety lock lever to the

unlock position.

Boom

4. Hold the hose fitting (A) in place with a

wrench and slowly loosen the hose nut (1).

5. Slowly move the boom in the “Boom

lower” direction a little until there are no

more air bubbles coming from the hose

nut (1) joint.

6. Hold the hose fitting (A) in place with a

wrench and tighten the hose nut (1).

5-55

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

3. Remove the key, and then check that the

WHEN REQUIRED

bucket is stable.

REPLACING THE BUCKET TEETH AND

THE SIDE CUTTERS

Replace the bucket teeth if the tooth points

are worn. Do not wait until the bucket is

damaged.

• Before performing maintenance or

repairs under the machine, lower all

moveable working equipment to the

ground or in the lowermost position.

• To prevent unexpected movement,

4. Knock out the locking pin (1) and remove

firmly secure the working equipment

the point (2).

when repairing or replacing the bucket

teeth or side cutter.

Note: If the drift is set against rubber pin lock

• When using a hammer, pins may fly out

(3) when it is hit, the rubber pin lock may

or metal particles may be scattered.

break. Set it against the back of the locking

This may lead to serious injury.

pin.

· If hard metal parts such as pins,

bucket teeth, side cutter or bearings

5. Remove the rubber pin lock (3). Check if

are hit with a hammer, wear protective

the rubber pin lock is still usable. Replace

gear such as safety goggles and

it if it is as follows.

gloves.

· When hitting pins or bucket teeth,

always check that there is no one in

the surrounding area.

• Do not allow unauthorized personnel in

the work area while working.

Removing

1. Clean the bucket and park the machine on

a flat and rigid ground.

A

There are cracks in the rubber and

the roller is coming off.

B

The roller is dented when pressed

with a finger.

2. Place the bucket with its bottom flat on

the blocks so that the locking pin can be

knocked out.

5-56

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

Installation

4. Knock out the locking pin (1).

Check that the end surfaces of the locking

pin just knocked out are aligned with the

upper and lower surface of the point. Do

not use the worn locking pin.

The life of the teeth can be lengthened

and the frequency of its replacement can

be reduced by turning it upside down so

that it will wear evenly.

Replace the rubber pin lock and locking

pin at the same time as replacing the

teeth. This makes it possible to prevent

the teeth from falling out

1. Remove the dirt on the surface of adaptor

and the inner part of tooth, make the

• Side cutter

better contact on the mating part.

Installation

2. Push rubber pin lock (3) into the welding

adaptor (4).

Do not let the rubber pin lock stick out

from the welding adaptor surface.

1. Insert the bolts from the inner of the

bucket and tighten the side cutter with

nuts.

Tightening torque: 475 N·m (350 ft-lb.)

3. Install the point (2) onto the welding

2. Caulk the bolts with a punch at three

adaptor (4).

spots along the periphery of the screw to

Insert the point so that the surface behind

prevent the nuts from coming loose.

the point’s pin hole is aligned with the

surface behind the welding adapter’s pin

hole.

5-57

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

REPLACING THE BUCKET

Removing

• Before performing maintenance or

repairs under the machine, lower all

working equipment to the ground or in

the lowermost position.

• If maintenance must be performed with

the engine running, always work as a

two person team communicating each

other.

· One person must sit in the operator’s

seat so that he/she can immediately

1. Lower the bucket to the ground as shown

stop the engine when necessary. He/

on the figure above in a stable position.

she must take care not to touch the

lever or pedal unless necessary.

Note: When removing pins, set the bucket

· The one who performs maintenance

so that it is barely touching the ground If the

must make sure to keep his/her body

bucket is firmly touching the ground, the

or clothing away from the moving part

resistance will be great and it will be difficult

of the machine.

to remove the pin.

• When using a hammer, pins may fly out

or metal particles may be scattered.

2. Set the safety lock lever to the locked

This may lead to serious injury.

position and stop the engine.

· If hard metal parts such as pins,

bucket teeth, side cutter or bearings

are hit with a hammer, wear protective

gear such as safety goggles and

gloves.

· When hitting pins or bucket teeth,

always check that there is no one in

the surrounding area.

• When aligning the pin holes, always do

so by checking them visually. Do not

insert your finger in the pin hole, or you

could lose your finger.

3. Remove the bolt (1).

4. Hammer the pin (2) out of the bucket.

5. Remove the bucket.

Inspect the pin seal (3) and replace it if it is

deformed or damaged. (See next page.)

5-58

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

Installation

5. Adjust the gap between the bucket and

the arm.

1. Set the O-ring (4) on the bucket as shown

Refer to “Adjusting the gap between the

on the figure above.

bucket and arm (If equipped)” on page

5-60.

6. Slide the O-ring (4).

Replacing the pin seal

2. Align the pin hole (A) on the bucket with

the pin hole on the arm (5), and install the

pin (2).

3. Operate the cylinder, align the pin hole (B)

on the bucket with the pin hole on the link

1. Set the pin seal (3) in the direction shown

arm (6), and install the pin (2).

on the figure above.

2. Use a mallet to slowly press the pin seal

in. Be careful not to damage the seal.

4. Align the turn prevention holes, and then

install the bolt (1) and the nut. Be sure to

leave a gap of about 0.5 to 1 mm (0.02 to

0.04 in.) between the nut and bucket

bush, or the nut will come loose.

5-59

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

ADJUSTING THE GAP BETWEEN THE

BUCKET AND ARM (IF EQUIPPED)

• Before performing maintenance or

repairs under the machine, lower all

working equipment to the ground or in

the lowermost position.

• To prevent unexpected movement,

securely block the working equipment

when adjusting the gap.

4. Remove the three bolts (2), the end plate

(3) and flange (4).

1. Lower the bucket to the ground as shown

on the figure above in a stable position.

5. Pull out the adjustment shim(s) (5)

2. Check that the bucket dose not move,

corresponding to the gap (A) from

and then set the safety lock lever to the

between the flange (4) and the bucket

locked position and stop the engine.

body.

Adjustment shim thickness : 0.5 mm (0.02

in.)

Be careful that the gap is no less than 0.5

mm (0.02 in.) after adjustment.

Note:

Example (for a gap of 2 mm or 0.08 in.):

2 mm - 0.5 mm (standard value)= 1.5 mm

(0.06 in.)

In the above example, three shims (5) should

be removed.

3. Move the O-ring (1) to bring the gap (A)

6. Insert the adjustment shim(s) (5) removed

into view and measure the width of the

in step 5 above between the end plate (3)

gap (A).

and the flange (4), and then fasten it in

The gap (A) should be 0.5 mm (0.02 in.).

place with the three bolts (2).

Swing the upperstructure slightly to the left

· Tightening torque for bolts (2): 83 N·m

and lightly press the arm point to the left

(61.5 ft-lb.)

side of the bucket (the side without an

7. Return the O-ring (1) to the original

adjuster).

position.

5-60

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

INSPECTING AND REPLENISHING THE

DRAINING THE WATER FROM THE

WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID

WATER SEPARATOR

Choose ethyl alcohol as washer solution.

• Do not smoke or permit open flames

Do not use methyl alcohol as washer

while handling fuel or working on the

solution. It could damage the eyes.

fuel system.

• Stop the engine in a well-ventilated

Use a windshield washer fluid designed

place and allow it to cool down before

specifically for motor vehicles. Follow the

performing maintenance.

instructions included with the washer fluid.

• Clean up spilled fuel immediately.

<Applicable machine models 126000002

or later>

Inspection

1. Open the right side cover.

2. Inspect the washer tank (1) and add

washer fluid if the level is low.

<Applicable machine models 126100003

or later>

Replenishing

1. Mix the washer fluid to the prescribed

concentration.

2. Remove the cap (2) and add washer fluid.

Keep the dust away while replenishing the

washer fluid.

3. Install the cap (2).

1. Open the engine hood.

2. Place a pan under the drain valve (7) to

catch fuel.

3. Open the drain valve (7) and drain the

water.

If the water does not drain easily, loosen

the plug (8).

5-61

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

4. Close the drain valve (7) and tighten the

Boom swing pedal

plug (8).

Refer to “Bleeding air from the fuel

system” on page 6-8.

LUBRICATING THE LEVERS AND PEDALS

Set the machine to the parking posture,

stop the engine, remove the starter key

and store it. Failure to do so may result in

the machine moving abruptly, leading to

Dozer blade lever

serious injury or death.

If the levers or pedals no longer move

smoothly, grease them.

Operating levers

1. Remove the lower mount section of the

boot (1) and turn it upward.

2. Wipe off the old grease.

3. Apply grease to points (A) and (B).

4. Set the boot (1) back as it was.

Travel levers

5-62

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

INSPECTING THE RUBBER CRAWLERS

(3) Metal core

Repair or replace the rubber crawlers if their

condition becomes as described below.

Consult your sales or service dealer for repair

or replacement.

Rubber crawler

Replace the crawler if the entire crawler is

stretched and cannot be adjusted.

(1) Lug

Replace if even one metal core is off.

(4) Rubber

Replace if the height of (A) is 5 mm (0.2 in.)

or below.

(2) Steel cord

Repair if there are cracks of 60 mm (2.4 in.)

or greater in length.

If the steel cord is visible, repair as soon as

possible, regardless of the length of the

crack.

Replace if the steel cord is exposed for two

links or more.

Replace if the half or more of the steel cords

on one side are cut.

5-63

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

REPLACING THE RUBBER CRAWLERS

• If you must work beneath the raised

machine or working equipment, always

use wood blocks, jack-stands or other

rigid and stable supports. Never get

under the machine or working

equipment if they are not sufficiently

supported.

• If maintenance must be performed with

3. Set an iron pipe (1) in the rubber crawler

the engine running, always work as a

and turn the sprocket slowly in the reverse

two person team communicating each

direction.

other.

4. Turn until the iron pipe (1) is directly next to

· One person must sit in the operator’s

the idler and the rubber crawler lifts away

seat so that he/she can immediately

from the idler, then stop turning the

stop the engine when necessary. He/

sprocket.

she must take care not to touch the

5. Slide the rubber crawler sideways and

lever or pedal unless necessary.

remove it from the crawler frame.

· The one who performs maintenance

Remove the other rubber crawler using

must make sure to keep his/her body

the same procedure.

or clothing away from the moving part

of the machine.

Removal

1. Fully release the tension of the rubber

crawler.

Refer to “Inspecting and adjusting the

crawler tension” on page 5-28.

2. Use the working equipment to lift the

body.

5-64

MAINTENANCE

WHEN REQUIRED

Installation

1. Use the working equipment to lift the

body.

2. Set the rubber crawler on the sprocket.

3. Set an iron pipe (1) in the rubber crawler

and turn the sprocket slowly in the reverse

direction.

4. Turn until the iron pipe (1) is directly next to

the idler and the rubber crawler lifts away

from the idler, then stop turning the

sprocket.

5. Slide the rubber crawler inward, engage it

on the idler, then pull out the iron pipe.

6. Check that the rubber crawler is securely

engaged on the sprocket and idler.

7. Tighten the rubber crawler to the standard

tension.

Refer to “Inspecting and adjusting the

crawler tension” on page 5-28.

8. Install the other rubber crawler using the

same procedure.

5-65

TROUBLESHOOTING

SYMPTOMS THAT ARE NOT MALFUNCTIONS

• It becomes less easy to operate the

SYMPTOMS THAT ARE NOT

machine when an attachment weighing

more than a standard arm or bucket is

MALFUNCTIONS

installed.

The symptoms listed below are not

malfunctions.

• The arm retracting speed momentarily

slows down when it reaches an almost

vertical position while the engine is running

at low speed.

• The bucket teeth moving speed

momentarily slows down when it reaches

an almost horizontal position while the

engine is running at low speed.

• The slew motor produces noise at the

beginning and end of the slewing.

• The travel motor produces noise when

stopped suddenly from its high speed

traveling.

• The control valve produces noise if

excessive force is applied to the working

equipment or when it moved to the stroke

end.

6-2

TROUBLESHOOTING

IF THE ENGINE OVERHEATS

• The water temperature gauge level is in the

IF THE ENGINE OVERHEATS

red zone.

• The engine slows down and the engine

power decreases.

• Do not open the engine hood when steam

• Steam comes from the engine room.

is coming from it. The steam or hot water

may spurt out and cause burns.

• Do not try to remove the radiator cap or

Remedy procedure

the drain plug when the cooling water is

1. Park the machine in a safe place.

hot. Stop the engine, wait until the

2. Check if steam is coming out of the closed

engine and the radiator cool, and then

engine hood.

slowly loosen the radiator cap to release

3. If there is steam, stop the engine

the internal pressure.

immediately and contact your sales or

• Before performing maintenance, stop the

service dealer for repair. If steam, is not

engine and allow the machine to cool down.

coming out run the engine at low idle and

let the water temperature cool down.

The symptoms listed below indicate

4. When the water temperature gauge level

overheating.

drops in the green zone, stop the engine.

5. Perform the inspections and the remedies

< Canopy >

listed below once the engine cools down.

· Fan belt slack

Adjust

Refer to page 5-26.

· Coolant level

Add

Refer to page 5-18.

· Water leakage

Repair

· Radiator fins

Clean

Refer to page 5-39.

· Sediment in cooling system

............................... Clean

Refer to page 5-46.

If the problem persists after the above

remedies, contact your sales or service

dealer for repair.

< Cab >

• An alarm is sounded and the engine

emergency lamp and the coolant

temperature warning lamp start flashing.

6-3

TROUBLESHOOTING

IF THE BATTERY GOES DEAD

Connecting the jumper cables

IF THE BATTERY GOES DEAD

The symptoms below indicate that the

IMPORTANT: Set the starter keys of the

battery is dead.

booster vehicle and the dead machine to

• The starter motor does not turn or fails to

the OFF position.

start the engine.

• The horn is too weak.

Remedy procedure

Start the engine using the booster battery on

the other vehicle (booster vehicle) and the

jumper cables.

• When starting the engine using the

jumper cables, be sure to connect the

cables by following the proper steps.

Improper use of jumper cables can

1. Connect the clip of jumper cable (R) to the

result in battery explosion or

positive (+) battery terminal of the dead

unexpected machine motion.

machine.

· Do not allow the booster vehicle and

2. Connect the other clip of jumper cable (R)

the machine with a dead battery (dead

to the positive (+) battery terminal of the

machine) to touch each other.

booster vehicle.

· Do not allow the positive (+) and the

3. Connect the clip of jumper cable (B) to the

negative (-) clips of the jumper cables

negative (-) battery terminal of the booster

to touch each other.

vehicle.

· When connecting, attach the jumper

4. Connect the other clip of jumper cable (B)

cable to the positive (+) terminals first.

to the engine block of the dead machine.

When disconnecting, remove the

Connect the clip to a place as far from the

cable from the negative (-) terminal

battery as possible.

(ground) first.

· Connect the last clip of the jumper

Starting the engine

cable to a point as far away from the

1. Check that the clips are securely

battery as possible.

connected to the terminals.

• Always wear the protective goggle when

2. Start the engine of the booster vehicle and

jump starting the engine by using the

run it at high speed.

jumper cables.

3. Start the engine of the dead machine.

IMPORTANT: Use the jumper cables and

clips of a size suited to the capacity of

battery. Do not use damaged or corroded

jumper cables and clips.

IMPORTANT: Be sure that the battery of

the booster vehicle has the same

capacity as the battery of the dead

machine.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to connect the clips

securely.

6-4

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