BBM OUTLAW XP MODELS ZERO-TURN MOWER. Manual - part 5

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BLADE

Essentially there are only TWO basic styles of mowing blades used or approved for use on our current
products:

1) The standard style of mowing blade is essentially designed for cutting grass and effectively discharging

the clippings out from the deck to fall onto the lawn or to be captured in a grass collection system.
Standard blades are also referred to as “2-in-1” (discharging & bagging ) or “high-lift” blades (because
they are designed to create a higher-lifting airflow).

2) Mulching blades generally have a more curved style surface and frequently include extra cutting

surfaces along the blade edges. These blades may also come in a “+” design (which is actually two
individual blades arranged in a perpendicular fashion to enhance mulching). The “+” blades are usually
found on older style mowers; newer ones utilize blades with more advanced mulching technology.
Mulching blades may also be referred to as “3-in-1” (mulching, discharging & bagging) or “all-purpose”
blades.

Bear in mind that the re-circulating airflow design of 3/1 blades makes them less efficient at discharging
grass clippings than a standard 2/1 blade. As with most all-purpose tools, there is some give and take as
opposed to using a tool designed for a more specific purpose.

If you’re experiencing less-than-desired cutting or discharging performance with a 3/1 blade, you may want
to check into using a 2/1 blade. Conversely, if you’re using a 2/1 blade and want to mulch clippings, you
should see about the availability of mulching blades or a mulching kit.*

The type of blade installed on a new mower is a decision the retailer makes for each model of mower, based
on the expected needs of most customers. If you’re unsure of which blade is on a particular model, inspect
the blade. Blades have part numbers stamped into them. Then compare these part numbers with the unit’s
Operator’s Manual or Parts List.

It is true there are many other styles of blades available. But since we don’t manufacture or recommend
using these other aftermarket styles, we will leave them out of this discussion. Should you want more
information on special application or aftermarket blades, you should contact the companies that make these
products. NOTE: Customers using non-OEM blades do so at their own risk. The use of unapproved (non-
OEM) blades may void any or all of the mower and engine factory warranties.

* MULCHING KITS – These generally consist of mulching blades and a mulching plug (which closes off
the discharge opening to keep the clippings contained under the deck for re-cutting) plus any necessary
hardware for installation. Please check with your parts distributor regarding the contents of a particular
mulching kit.

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MOWING TIPS:

• Mow header strips at the ends of the lawn and around flower beds first. Make them wide enough that you can turn the mower

around in the already mown section. Then mow back and forth between these header strips overlapping each lap by about 1/8

the

width of the mower’s deck.

• Don’t cut your grass too short, particular

ly cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks

better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.

• Don’t remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and

you

just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3

or so

days between cuttings.

•

NEVER SCALP YOUR LAWN. Scalping severely damages the root system to such a degree that it may die.

• Avoid mowing when the grass is wet or when it’s dark
• Avoid throwing grass clippings into the street and driveway where they can be washed into the sewer system. After mowing,

clean

up driveway and walkways.

• When mowing remove only a third with each cutting (except for the first mowing of the season when it’s ok to remove more).

You

can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion,

grass

clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing, especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the direction

ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower’s blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several

blades

around so you’ll always have a sharp one on hand. Sharp blades cut the grass cleanly and help mulch clippings into

small pieces

which break down quickly.

• Don’t forget to change your mower’s oil at least once during the mowing season. For brand new mowers, change the oil after

about 5 hours of operation during the initial break-in period.

• At the end of the mowing season use a fuel stabilizer in the remaining gasoline
• In the spring, don’t use that old gas unless you properly used a fuel stabilizer, it

can cause a number of problems. Better to use fresh gasoline to begin the new
mowing season.

•

Leaf blade A demonstrates what a leaf blade should look like after mowing with
a sharp blade.

•

Leaf blade B demonstrates a leaf blade that was injured by a dull mower blade.

•

Leaf blade C was cut by the mower but indicates that the mower blade is not sharp enough. The shredded white tissue

protruding

from the leaf blades C and D is the vascular tissue of the plant.

•

Leaf blade D has been mown for quite some time with a dull mower blade.

The leading edge of the blade enclosure is equipped with an adjustable guard. When the
guard is set to a higher position, it allows incoming grass to remain in a more upright
position just prior to being cut. The result is a higher quality cut.

To bag or mulch?

Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup or increase the chances of disease. If

you mow your lawn at the right height, without removing any more than 1/3 of it’s total height, clippings will quickly breakdown
without a trace. These clippings contribute additional nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil and supply it with additional
organic materials. Clippings from a 1000 sq. ft. lawn can add as much as 1 - 2 pounds of nitrogen back into the soil.

If you have a compost pile, then you may want to bag your clippings occasionally to add much needed green-matter to the

compost pile. Make sure it is mixed thoroughly with brown matter to avoid a strong ammonia odor.

DO NOT COMPOST

CLIPPINGS after applying any weed control or weed-feed type product. Before adding clippings to the compost pile wait at
least 3 mowings after these products have been applied.

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SERVICE SECTION

SECTION 1: HYDROSTATIC SYSTEM

The hydraulic reservoir tank on the Outlaw XP model is
located on each side of the rear cover. There is a
dipstick that indicates the current hydraulic oil level. Use
only 20W-50 motor oil in this tank. Conventional or
synthetic oil may be used. Bad Boy Hydrostatic Oil is
recommended. Bad Boy recommends that the hydraulic
oil and filters be changed within the first 50 hours of use;
then at intervals of 250 usage hours. Use only Bad Boy
replacement filters. Use of any other filters may result in
damage to the hydraulic system and void the warranty.
Each side requires approximately two quarts of oil to refill
the system.

THE FOLLOWING MAINTENACE IS TO BE PERFORMED
ON A LEVEL SURFACE.

Changing your hydraulic oil and filters:

Place an oil drain pan under the engine

plate and place the hydraulic return lines

that go into the hydrogear pumps into the

oil pan. Remove the caps from the

hydraulic reservoir tanks.

Start the engine in order to cycle out the

old hydraulic oil.

When you see air bubbles in the hydraulic

lines immediately shut off the mower.

keep in mind that only 75-80% of the

hydraulic oil can be changed at a time.

Place rags under the hydraulic filters.

Turn the hydraulic filters counter

clockwise to remove.

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Fill the new hydraulic oil filters with 20W-50 motor oil.
Only use Bad Boy replacement filters.

Place the hydraulic return lines back onto the
hydrogear pumps. Fill each hydraulic reservoir tank
until the oil level reaches the bubble on the dipstick.
Be careful not to overfill the hydraulic reservoir tanks.

Proceed to the purge procedure below.

Purging Procedure:

Due to the effects air has on the efficiency in hydrostatic
drive applications, it is critical that the air is purged from the
system. These purge procedures should be implemented
any time a hydrostatic system has been opened to facilitate
maintenance or any additional oil has been added to the
system.

Lift the rear tires of the mower off of the ground and chock
your front tires so they do no move.

With the bypass valve open and the engine running, slowly
move the directional drive arms in the forward and reverse
directions (5 to 6 times), as air is purged from the unit, the
oil level will drop.

With the bypass valve closed and the engine running,
slowly move the directional drive arms in the forward and
reverse directions (5 to 6 times). Check the oil level, and
add oil as required after stopping the engine.

It may be necessary to repeat steps 2 and 3 until all the air
is completely purged from the system. When the transaxle
moves forward and reverse at normal speed purging is
complete.

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