COMPACT OUTLAW MODEL ZERO-TURN MOWER. Manual - part 5

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BLADE

Essentially there are only TWO basic styles of mowing blades used or approved for use on our current
products:

1) The standard style of mowing blade is essentially designed for cutting grass and effectively discharging

the clippings out from the deck to fall onto the lawn or to be captured in a grass collection system.
Standard blades are also referred to as “2-in-1” (discharging & bagging ) or “high-lift” blades (because
they are designed to create a higher-lifting airflow).

2) Mulching blades generally have a more curved style surface and frequently include extra cutting

surfaces along the blade edges. These blades may also come in a “+” design (which is actually two
individual blades arranged in a perpendicular fashion to enhance mulching). The “+” blades are usually
found on older style mowers; newer ones utilize blades with more advanced mulching technology.
Mulching blades may also be referred to as “3-in-1” (mulching, discharging & bagging) or “all-purpose”
blades.

Bear in mind that the re-circulating airflow design of 3/1 blades makes them less efficient at discharging
grass clippings than a standard 2/1 blade. As with most all-purpose tools, there is some give and take as
opposed to using a tool designed for a more specific purpose.

If you’re experiencing less-than-desired cutting or discharging performance with a 3/1 blade, you may want
to check into using a 2/1 blade. Conversely, if you’re using a 2/1 blade and want to mulch clippings, you
should see about the availability of mulching blades or a mulching kit.*

The type of blade installed on a new mower is a decision the retailer makes for each model of mower, based
on the expected needs of most customers. If you’re unsure of which blade is on a particular model, inspect
the blade. Blades have part numbers stamped into them. Then compare these part numbers with the unit’s
Operator’s Manual or Parts List.

It is true there are many other styles of blades available. But since we don’t manufacture or recommend
using these other aftermarket styles, we will leave them out of this discussion. Should you want more
information on special application or aftermarket blades, you should contact the companies that make these
products. NOTE: Customers using non-OEM blades do so at their own risk. The use of unapproved (non-
OEM) blades may void any or all of the mower and engine factory warranties.

* MULCHING KITS – These generally consist of mulching blades and a mulching plug (which closes off
the discharge opening to keep the clippings contained under the deck for re-cutting) plus any necessary
hardware for installation. Please check with your parts distributor regarding the contents of a particular
mulching kit.

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MOWING TIPS:

• Mow header strips at the ends of the lawn and around flower beds first. Make them wide enough that you can turn the mower

around in the already mown section. Then mow back and forth between these header strips overlapping each lap by about 1/8

the

width of the mower’s deck.

• Don’t cut your grass too short, particular

ly for cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system,

looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.

• Don’t remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and

you

just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3

or so

days between cuttings.

•

NEVER SCALP YOUR LAWN. Scalping severely damages the root system to such a degree that it may die.

• Avoid mowing when the grass is wet or when it’s dark
• Avoid throwing grass clippings into the street and driveway where they can be washed into the sewer system. After mowing,

clean

up driveway and walkways.

• When mowing remove only a third with each cutting (except for the first mowing of the season when it’s ok to remove more).

You

can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion,

grass

clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing, especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the direction

ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower’s blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several

blades

around so you’ll always have a sharp one on hand. Sharp blades cut the grass cleanly and help mulch clippings into

small pieces

which break down quickly.

• Don’t forget to change your mower’s oil at least once during the mowing season. For brand new mowers, change the oil after

about 5 hours of operation during the initial break-in period.

• At the end of the mowing season use a fuel stabilizer in the remaining gasoline
• In the spring, don’t use that old gas unless you properly used a fuel stabilizer, it can cause a number of problems. Better to use

fresh gasoline to begin the new mowing season.

•

Leaf blade A demonstrates what a leaf blade should look like
after mowing with a sharp blade.

•

Leaf blade B demonstrates a leaf blade that was injured by a
dull mower blade.

•

Leaf blade C was cut by the mower but indicates that the
mower blade is not sharp enough. The shredded white tissue
protruding from the leaf blades C and D is the vascular tissue
of the plant.

•

Leaf blade D has been mown for quite some time with a dull mower blade.

To bag or mulch?

Grass clippings

DO NOT contribute to thatch buildup or increase the chances of disease. If you mow your lawn at the right height,

without removing any more than 1/3 of it’s total height, clippings will quickly breakdown without a trace. These clippings
contribute additional nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil and supply it with additional organic materials. Clippings from a
1000 sq. ft. lawn can add as much as 1 - 2 pounds of nitrogen back into the soil.
If you have a compost pile, then you may want to bag your clippings occasionally to add much needed green-matter to the
compost pile. Make sure it is mixed thoroughly with brown matter to avoid a strong ammonia odor.

DO NOT COMPOST

CLIPPINGS after applying any weed control or weed-feed type product. Before adding clippings to the compost pile wait at
least 3 mowings after these products have been applied.

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SERVICE SECTION

SECTION

: HYDROSTATIC SYSTEM

The hydraulic fluid reservoirs are located on the
sides of the rear cover. Notice the “full cold” line at
the bottom of the tank. Use only 20W-50 motor oil in
this tank. (Bad Boy Hydrostatic oil is recommended)

Changing your hydraulic oil and filter :

Remove the tops from the hydraulic fluid

reservoirs and get an oil drain pan. Lifting the

mower from the rear will make access to the

transaxles easier and allow you to purge the

air from the transaxles.

Remove the three ¼” filter guard screws and

filter guard from the ZT-3400 Transaxle. Clean

any loose debris from around the perimeter of

the filter.

Place the oil drain pan under the oil filter as

the oil filter serves as the drain as well.

Remove the oil filter from the transaxle.

After the oil has drained, wipe the filter base

surface off and apply a film of new oil to the

gasket of the new replacement filter.

Install the new filter by hand, turn ¾ to one full

turn after the filter gasket contacts the filter

base surface.

Re-install the filter guard with three ¼” screws.

Torque screws to 65 in. lbs. (7.3 Nm) each.

Repeat steps 1-6 on the opposite side

transaxle drive.

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Drain old oil filters of all free flowing oil prior

to disposal. Place used oil in appropriate containers

and deliver to an approved recycling collection

facility.

Remove the top port plug from the left side and

right side transaxles prior to filling with

oil. This will allow the transaxles to vent

during oil fill and prevent any air lock within the

transaxles.

10)

Fill with 20W-50 motor oil

(Bad Boy

Hydrostatic oil is recommended) through the hydraulic fluid

reservoirs until it just appears at

the bottom of each transaxle’s top port (approximately 2

quarts per transaxle, 4 quarts total). Install the top port pug

into each transaxle as the oil level reaches this port.

11)

Install and torque the top port plugs to 180 in. lbs. (20.3 Nm).

12)

Continue to fill the transaxle through the hydraulic fluid

reservoirs until the “Full Cold” line is reached on the

hydraulic fluid reservoirs.

13)

Re-install the caps on the hydraulic fluid reservoirs.

14)

Now we need to purge the air from the transaxle. With your

mowers tires off the ground disengage the brake and start

the engine.

15)

Pull the neutral bypass levers which are located on each

side of the muffler. Then slowly move the drive arms in the

forward and reverse direction 5 to 6 times.

16)

Push the neutral bypass levers back into place. Move the

drive arms forward and backward 5 to 6 times slowly. Check

the oil level, and add oil as required after stopping the

engine.

17)

It may be necessary to repeat steps 15 and 16 until all the

air is completely purged from the system. When the

transaxle operates at normal noise levels and moves

smoothly forward and reverse at normal speeds, then the

transaxle is considered purged.

Under the rear of the mower, you will find the two levers

shown in the image. These bypass levers serve as a

neutral for moving the mower while the engine is not

running. Pull the levers out and lock them into place to

activate the bypass.

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