Content .. 74 75 76 77 ..

Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual - part 76

To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark
plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work
on one spark plug at a time.
4 If the marks on the original-equipment
spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark
the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder
the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing
belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the
plugs by gripping the rubber boot sealing the

cylinder head cover opening, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
5 It is advisable to soak up any water in the
spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove
any dirt from them using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
water from dropping into the cylinders.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

1•24

Every 30 000 miles

Specifications

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion C148

Cooling system

Coolant protection at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

-25°C (-13°F)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

-30°C (-22°F)

Coolant specific gravity at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio and
15°C/59°F - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.061

Fuel system

Idle speed - nominal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

830 ± 50 rpm*

Air filter element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion U618

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion L218

* Note: Given for reference only - not adjustable.

Ignition system

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)

Spark plugs:*

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RE7YCC

Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion type not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to
their manufacturer’s recommendations

Braking system

Note: No minimum lining thicknesses are given by Ford - the following is given as a general recommendation. If the pad wear warning light
comes on before the front brake pad linings reach the minimum thickness, the pads should nevertheless be renewed immediately.
Minimum front or rear brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 mm

Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm

Suspension and steering

Tyre pressures (cold):

Front

Rear

Normally laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bars (31 psi)

Fully laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.4 bars (35 psi)

2.8 bars (41 psi)

Note: Normally laden means up to 3 persons. For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary.
Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen:

Driver’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion X 5303 (and SP 01 spoiler)

Passenger’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion X 5103

Tailgate:

Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion X 5103

Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion type not available

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 to 10

4 to 7

Auxiliary drivebelt automatic tensioner Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Radiator undershield screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

check the cylinder head threads and tapered
sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer as to the best method of repair.
7 As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of
the spark plug is clean and white, with no
deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.
8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
9 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
10 If you are renewing the spark plugs,
purchase the new plugs, then check each of
them first for faults such as cracked insulators
or damaged threads. Note also that,
whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a
routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)
leads should be checked as described below.
11 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. New
plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct
gap, so they should always be checked
before fitting.
12 Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops (see illustration).
13 To set the electrode gap, measure the
gap with a feeler gauge, and then bend open,
or closed, the outer plug electrode until the
correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The
centre electrode should never be bent, as this
may crack the insulation and cause plug
failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode
is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend
it gently to align them.

14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector
sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and
that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are
clean. Brown staining on the porcelain,
immediately above the metal body, is quite
normal, and does not necessarily indicate a
leak between the body and insulator.
15 On installing the spark plugs, first check
that the cylinder head thread and sealing
surface are as clean as possible; use a clean
rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe
clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of
copper-based grease or anti-seize compound
to the threads of each plug, and screw them
in by hand where possible. Take extra care to
enter the plug threads correctly, as the
cylinder head is of aluminium alloy - it’s often
difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes
without cross-threading them.

16 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque

wrench setting (see illustration). If a torque
wrench is not available - and this is one case
where the use of a torque wrench is strongly
recommended - tighten each spark plug
through no more than 1/16 of a turn. Do not
exceed the specified torque setting, and
NEVER overtighten these spark plugs - their
tapered seats mean they are almost
impossible to remove if abused.
17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of
the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead check

18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever the plugs themselves are
renewed. Start by making a visual check of
the leads while the engine is running. In a
darkened garage (make sure there is
ventilation) start the engine and observe each
lead. Be careful not to come into contact with
any moving engine parts. If there is a break in
the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark
at the damaged area.
19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Each original lead should be
numbered to identify its cylinder. If the
number is illegible, a piece of tape can be
marked with the correct number, and
wrapped around the lead (the leads should be
numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the
timing belt end of the engine). The lead can
then be disconnected.
20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
corroded to be fit for further use, the lead
must be renewed. Push the lead and boot
back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of

1•25

Every 30 000 miles

31.12 Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge when

checking the gap - if the wire does not

slide between the electrodes with a slight

drag, adjustment is required

31.13 To change the gap, bend the outer

electrode only, as indicated by the arrows,

and be very careful not to crack or chip the

porcelain insulator surrounding the centre

electrode

31.16 Spark plugs have tapered seats - do

not overtighten them on refitting, or you

will not be able to get them out again

without risking damage to the plugs and

cylinder head

To avoid the possibility of cross-
threading a spark plug, fit a short piece
of rubber hose over the end of the
plug. The flexible hose acts as a
universal joint, to help align the plug
with the plug hole. Should the plug
begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip
on the spark plug, preventing thread
damage.

1•26

Every 60 000 miles

Every 60 000 miles

Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on

any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke,
or allow open flames or bare light bulbs,
near the work area. Also, do not work in a
garage if a gas appliance with a pilot light is
present. While performing any work on the
fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have
a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse
it off immediately with soap and water.
1 The fuel filter is located at the front right-
hand corner of the fuel tank, just forward of
the vehicle’s right-hand rear jacking point. The
filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and
other foreign matter out of the fuel system,
and so must be renewed at regular intervals,

or whenever you have reason to suspect that
it may be clogged. It is always unpleasant
working under a vehicle - pressure-washing or
hosing clean the underbody in the filter’s
vicinity will make working conditions more
tolerable, and will reduce the risk of getting
dirt into the fuel system.
2 Relieve any residual pressure in the system
by removing the fuel pump fuse (No 14) and
starting the engine; allow the engine to idle until
it dies. Turn the engine over once or twice on
the starter, to ensure that all pressure is
released, then switch off the ignition.

Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the pressure
necessary for the engine to run -

remember that fuel will still be present in
the system components, and take
precautions before disconnecting them.
3 Noting the comments made in Section 1 of
Chapter 5, disconnect the battery earth terminal.
4 Jack up the rear right-hand side of the
vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand.
5 Using rag to soak up any spilt fuel, release
the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions from the
filter, by squeezing together the protruding
locking lugs on each union, and carefully
pulling the union off the filter stub (see

illustration). Where the unions are colour-
coded, the feed and outlet pipes cannot be
confused; where both unions are the same
colour, note carefully which pipe is connected
to which filter stub, and ensure that they are
correctly reconnected on refitting.
6 Noting the arrows and/or other markings on
the filter showing the direction of fuel flow
(towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp
screw and withdraw the filter. Note that the
filter will still contain fuel; care should be
taken, to avoid spillage and to minimise the
risk of fire.
7 On installation, slide the filter into its clamp
so that the arrow marked on it faces the
correct way, then slide each pipe union on to
its (correct) respective filter stub, and press it
down until the locking lugs click into their
groove (see illustrations). Tighten the clamp
screw carefully, until the filter is just prevented
from moving; do not overtighten the clamp
screw, or the filter casing may be crushed.
8 Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the
battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition
on and off five times, to pressurise the
system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage
around the filter unions before lowering the
vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.

33 Fuel filter renewal

32 Timing belt renewal

33.5 Squeeze together fuel filter pipe union

locking lugs, then pull pipes off filter stubs -

ensure pipes are correctly reconnected

33.7A When installing the new filter,

ensure the arrow showing direction of fuel

flow points towards the engine . . .

Every 3 years

The procedure is similar to that for the

bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by syphoning,

and allowance should be made for the old
fluid to be removed from the circuit when
bleeding a section of the circuit.

34 Brake fluid renewal

31.22 Measure the resistance of the spark

plug leads - if any exceeds the specified

maximum value, renew all the leads

the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.
Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks
and other damage. Do not bend the lead
sharply, because the conductor might break.
22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil
by pressing together the plastic retaining
catches and pulling the end fitting off the coil
terminal. Check for corrosion and for a tight
fit. If a meter with the correct measuring range
is available, measure the resistance of the
disconnected lead from its coil connector to
its spark plug connector (see illustration). If
the resistance recorded for any of the leads
exceeds the value specified, all the leads

should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to
the coil, noting that each coil terminal is
marked with its respective cylinder number,
so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads
and upsetting the firing order.
23 Inspect the remaining plug leads, ensuring
that each is securely fastened both ends when
the check is complete. If any sign of arcing,
severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or
other damage is noticed, obtain new spark
plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new
spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and
refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in
the firing order.

33.7B . . . secure pipe unions as described -

do not overtighten clamp screw (arrowed)

Chapter 2 Part A:
In-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and
inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal  . . . . . . . . 22
Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . .

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 21
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Oil level sensor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . 19
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle  . . . . . . . .

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal,

inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 3

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts

Engine code:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

LIF

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

RKA

2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

NGA

Capacity:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1597 cc

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1796 cc

2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1988 cc

Bore:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.0 mm

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.6 mm

2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

84.8 mm

Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88.0 mm

Compression ratio:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.3:1

1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.0:1

Compression pressure - at starter motor speed, engine fully warmed-up .

Not available

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Cylinder head

Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28.395 to 28.425 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25.960 to 25.980 mm

Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . .

0.020 to 0.070 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.080 to 0.220 mm

Hydraulic tappet diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28.400 mm

2A•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult, suitable
for competent DIY
mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Content .. 74 75 76 77 ..