Rover 214-414. Service Repair Instruction - part 1

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Rover 214 & 414
Service and Repair Instruction

Mark Coombs and Christopher Rogers

Models covered

Rover 214 and 414 models fitted with eight or sixteen-valve 1397 cc ‘K-series’ engine

Covers major mechanical features of Cabriolet

Does not cover Diesel engine models

(1689-288-9AA3)

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Instruction Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including

photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,

without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 458 7

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,
Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER 214 & 414

Introduction

Page 

0•4

Safety First!

Page 

0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction 

Page 

0•6

If your car won’t start

Page 

0•6

Jump starting

Page 

0•7

Wheel changing

Page 

0•8

Identifying leaks

Page 

0•9

Towing

Page 

0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction

Page  0•10

Underbonnet check points

Page  0•10

Engine oil level

Page  0•11

Coolant level

Page  0•11

Brake fluid level

Page  0•12

Screen washer fluid level

Page  0•12

Power steering fluid level

Page  0•13

Wiper blades

Page  0•13

Tyre condition and pressure

Page  0•14

Electrical systems

Page  0•15

Battery

Page  0•15

Lubricants, Fluids, Capacities and Tyre Pressures

Page  0•16

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Page 

1•1

Maintenance schedule

Page 

1•3

Maintenance procedures

Page 

1•6

Contents

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine in-car repair procedures

Page  2A•1

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

Page  2B•1

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Page 

3•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines

Page  4A•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injected engines

Page  4B•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injected engines

Page  4C•1

Emission control systems

Page  4D•1

Ignition system - carburettor engines

Page  5A•1

Ignition system - fuel injected engines

Page  5B•1

Starting and charging systems

Page  5C•1

Transmission

Clutch

Page 

6•1

Gearbox

Page 

7•1

Driveshafts

Page 

8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system

Page 

9•1

Suspension and steering

Page  10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings

Page  11•1

Body electrical systems

Page  12•1

Wiring Diagrams

Page 12•20

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights

Page  REF•1

Conversion Factors

Page  REF•2

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification 

Page  REF•3

General Repair Procedures

Page  REF•4

Jacking and Vehicle Support

Page  REF•5

Radio/cassette Anti-theft System - precaution

Page  REF•5

Tools and Working Facilities

Page  REF•6

MOT Test Checks

Page

REF•8

Fault Finding

Page  REF•12

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page  REF•19

Index

Page  REF•24

Contents

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•4

The Rover 214 Hatchback and 414 Saloon

models covered in this Instruction are a much-
developed version of the original 213 and 216
models first launched in 1984. The 214 five-door
model was the first to be introduced in October
1989 and was closely followed by the 
414 model introduced in March 1990. The 214
model range was further updated in September
1990 when a three-door variant was introduced.

All models are fitted with the new 1.4 litre

‘K’ series engine. The 214 S model (first
introduced in September 1990) has an eight-
valve single overhead camshaft version of the
engine which is fed by an SU KIF carburettor.

All other 214 and 414 models are equipped
with a sixteen-valve double overhead
camshaft version of the engine which is
controlled by a Rover/Motorola Modular
Engine Management System (MEMS) with
either single-point fuel injection (SPi) or multi-
point fuel injection (MPi). All versions of the
engine are able to accept a full range of
emission control systems, up to and including
a three-way regulated catalytic converter.

The five-speed transmission, which is a

joint development by Rover and Peugeot
engineers, is of Peugeot design and produced
by Rover. The transmission is fitted to the left-

hand end of the engine. The complete
engine/transmission unit is mounted
transversely across the front of the car and
drives the front wheels through unequal-
length driveshafts.

The front suspension incorporates

MacPherson struts and the rear is of the
double wishbone type.

Braking is by discs at the front and drums

at the rear, with a dual-circuit hydraulic
system. On all models in the range, an Anti-
lock Braking System (ABS) was offered as an
optional extra. If ABS is fitted, then braking is
by discs both at the front and rear.

Rover 114GTa

Rover Metro 1.1S

Introduction

Acknowledgements

The aim of this instruction is to help you get

the best value from your vehicle. It can do so
in several ways. It can help you decide what
work must be done (even should you choose
to get it done by a garage), provide
information on routine maintenance and
servicing, and give a logical course of action

and diagnosis when random faults occur.
However, it is hoped that you will use the
instruction by tackling the work yourself. On
simpler jobs it may even be quicker than
booking the car into a garage and going there
twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most
important, a lot of money can be saved by

avoiding the costs a garage must charge to
cover its labour and overheads.

The instruction has drawings and descriptions

to show the function of the various components
so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks are described and photographed in a
clear step-by-step sequence.

Your Rover 214 & 414 Instruction

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug

who supplied the illustrations showing spark
plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils who
provided lubrication data. Thanks are also
due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
supplied some of the workshop tools, and to

all those people at Sparkford who helped in
the production of this Instruction.

We take great pride in the accuracy of

information given in this instruction, but
vehicle manufacturers make alterations
and design changes during the production

run of a particular vehicle of which they 
do not inform us. No liability can be
accepted by the authors or publishers for
loss, damage or injury caused by any
errors in, or omissions from the
information given.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•5

Safety First!

Working on your car can be dangerous.

This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive. 
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. 
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks 
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock 

• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication 

• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400

0

C. The

rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

Remember...

DO

• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•6

Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find
more detailed fault finding information at the back of the
instruction, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start 
and the starter motor
doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the
battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting
(see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start 
even though the starter
motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank?

M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious
dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol
product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system
electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. 
Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector
and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally
suffer from damp.)

Check that the distributor HT lead
connections are clean and secure

A

Check that the spark plug HT lead
connections are clean and secure -
cover removed

B

Check that the ignition coil HT and LT
lead connections are clean and secure

C

Check the security and condition of the
battery connections

D

The ECU wiring plugs may cause
problems if dirty or not properly
connected

E

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition off) and spray them with a water-
dispersing spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

0•7

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition
is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.

4 Take note of any special precautions

printed on the battery case.

4 Make sure that the booster battery

is the same voltage as the
discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you
out of trouble, but you must
correct whatever made the
battery go flat in the first

place. There are three possibilities:

1)  The battery has been drained by

repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.

2)

The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack or
broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).

3)

The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte
low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead
to the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery

Connect the other end of the red lead
to the positive (+) terminal of the
booster battery

Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery

Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started

1

2

3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan,
drivebelts or other moving parts of the
engine

5

Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads
in the reverse order of connection

6

Jump starting

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•8

Roadside repairs

Location of spare wheel and tools in boot

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same
on all cars. However, the basic principles
apply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks.
M Stow the jack and tools in the correct

locations in the car.

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just

fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to
the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired

as soon as possible.

Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen the
wheelnuts

Locate the jack head in the correct
jacking point

Raise the jack until the wheel is clear of
the ground

Remove the trim to expose the wheelnuts

Unscrew the spare wheel retaining cap

1

2

3

4

5

Remove the wheelnuts and lift off the
wheel

7

Fit the replacement wheel and tighten the
nuts

8

6

Preparation

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if  possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary. 

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission).

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•9

Roadside repairs

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or

obvious wetness under the bonnet or 
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided.
M Before being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
M Note that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
M On models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
M Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drive
smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
M On models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.

Sump oil

Gearbox oil

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•10

There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot on inconvenience
and expense.
These “Weekly Checks” require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could well prove to be
very well spent, for example:

m

m

Keeping an eye on tyre condition and

pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely but could also save
your life.

m

m

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical

problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of these.

m

m

If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the

first time you might know about it is when
your brakes don’t work properly. Checking
the level regularly will give advance warning of
this kind of problem.

m

m

If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost

of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak.

Underbonnet Check Points

K16 MPi engine with plastic inlet manifold

Introduction

Weekly checks

A

Engine oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant expansion tank

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Power steering fluid reservoir

F

Screen washer fluid reservoir

G

Battery

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•11

Weekly checks

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.

4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (see “Lubricants and Fluids”
on page 0•16).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, then engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is
too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil
seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled
by adding too much oil.

Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all
the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean

dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the

upper HI mark and the lower LO mark.
Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotate
the cap through a quarter-turn anti-

clockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil
slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Do not overfill.

The dipstick is located at the rear right-hand
end of the engine (see “Underbonnet Check

Points” on page 0•10 for exact location).
Withdraw the dipstick.

1

2

3

4

If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick.

Coolant level

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck,

until the coolant is up to the upper level. Refit
the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go
until it is secure.

If topping-up, wait until the engine is
cold, then cover the filler cap with a layer

of rag and start unscrewing the cap. Wait until
any hissing ceases, indicating that all
pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the
cap until it can be removed. At all times keep
well away from the filler opening.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level
should be between the expansion tank

ridge/seam and the level indicated above
COOLANT LEVEL on the side of the
expansion tank, which is located in the front
right-hand corner of the engine compartment. 

1

2

3

Warning: Do not attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine is
hot, as there is a very great risk

of scalding. Do not leave open containers
of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and

pouring it. Do not use fluid which has 
been standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air, which can
cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.

Before you start

4 Make sure that the car is on level ground.

4 Cleanliness is of great importance when
dealing with the braking system, so take 
care to clean around the reservoir cap 
before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid
from a container which has stood for at least
24 hours (to allow air bubbles to separate 
out).

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up, this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.

Brake fluid level

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
surrounding paintwork. Use only the

specified fluid; mixing different types can
cause damage to the system. After filling to
the correct level, refit the cap securely, to
prevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter.
Ensure that the fluid level switch plunger is
free to move. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Before adding fluid, it’s a good idea to
inspect the reservoir. The system should

be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the
fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

The brake master cylinder and fluid
reservoir is mounted on the vacuum

servo unit in the engine compartment. The
MAX and MIN level marks are indicated on the
side of the reservoir and the fluid level should
be maintained between these marks at all
times.

1

If topping-up is necessary, unplug the
electrical connector and wipe the area

around the filler cap with a clean rag before
removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it
carefully into the reservoir to avoid spilling it
on surrounding painted surfaces. Be sure to
use only the specified brake hydraulic fluid
since mixing different types of fluid can cause
damage to the system.

2

3

4

Screen washer fluid level

The reservoir for the windscreen and rear
window (where fitted) washer systems is

located on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a
screenwash additive should be added in

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Car care

l Screenwash additives not only keep the
windscreen clean during bad weather, they
also prevent the washer system freezing in
cold weather - which is when you are likely to
need it most. Don’t top up using plain water,
as the screenwash will become diluted and
will freeze in cold weather.
l Check the operation of the windscreen and
rear window washers. Adjust the nozzles
using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a
point slightly above the centre of the swept
area.

Warning: On no account use
engine coolant antifreeze in the
screen washer system - this will
damage the paintwork.

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0•12

Weekly checks

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•13

Weekly checks

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass
until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, press the locking tab

with a finger nail and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end. On
refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If they are cracked or
show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is

smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades
should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

2

After filling the reservoir to the proper
level, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely to avoid leaks and the entry of
foreign matter into the reservoir.

3

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. When adding fluid,
pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid
spillage. Be sure to use only the specified
fluid.

2

The power steering fluid reservoir is
located on the right-hand side of the

engine compartment, just behind the cooling
system expansion tank. MAX and MIN level
marks are indicated on the side of the
reservoir and the fluid level should be
maintained between these marks at all times.

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1

Wiper blades

Power steering fluid level

Before you start

4 Make sure that the car is on level ground.

4 Set the front roadwheels in the straight-
ahead position.
4 The engine should be stopped.

4 Do not operate the steering once the
engine is stopped.

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up, there is a fluid leak somewhere in the
system which should be investigated
immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the power steering system has
been checked.

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0•14

Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is
completely effective, you may have the
expense of replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,
and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the
whole car, the rear wheels could be out of
balance. Wheel balancing should be carried
out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre

pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre pressures are shown on page 0•16

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively tread wear can be
monitored with a simple, inexpensive

device known as a tread depth indicator
gauge.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the

tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
The band positions are indicated by a
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

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3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Uneven  Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

4

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0•15

Weekly checks

Electrical system

If more than one indicator light or
headlight has failed, it is likely that either

a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the
circuit (see Chapter 12).

If a single indicator light, brake light or
headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer
to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights
have failed, it is possible that the brake light
switch operated by the brake pedal is faulty.
Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

1

If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the

lights. The reflected light should show if
they are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative, and replace the fuse if necessary.
Most fuses are located behind the cover in the
right-hand lower facia panel. Other fuses are
located in the fusebox on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment. To replace a blown
fuse, pull it from position, using the plastic
tool provided. Fit a new fuse of the same
rating. If a second fuse blows, it is important
that you find the reason - do not use a fuse
with a higher rating.
4 Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

2

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on
the vehicle battery, read the precautions
given in “Safety first” at the start of this
manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered
with a zinc-based primer, then painted.
4 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see “Jump starting”.

The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected
periodically for damage such as a cracked
case or cover. 

Check the tightness of battery clamps to
ensure good electrical connections. You

should not be able to move them. Also check
each cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire
brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a
useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1

2

3

... as well as the battery cable clamps

4

Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.